Nicolas Chemarin is emerging as a prominent figure in the natural wine landscape of Beaujolais. On a beautiful summer day, I visited him at his vineyard located in Marchampt, just outside the crus in the west of Beaujolais. The vineyards here are breathtaking, characterized by steep slopes and meticulous farming practices. Working among these slopes, especially without using herbicides, presents a unique challenge due to the dense vine planting and the lack of trellising.
Nicolas represents the fourth generation of his family to cultivate this land. His great-grandfather practiced subsistence farming with a variety of crops, while his grandfather shifted the focus to viticulture. His father continued this tradition, passing on the reins to Nicolas upon his retirement in 2015. Initially managing 4 hectares, Nicolas has since expanded the vineyard to eight hectares, transitioning to organic farming and embracing natural winemaking techniques.
With a degree in enology, Nicolas honed his skills in Pouilly-Fuissé and later led the cellar at natural wine producer Louis Tête. Since 2008, his focus has been on his own domaine.
The Wines
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Nicolas Chemarin Chardonnay P’tit Grobis 2022 Vin de France
Alcohol: 11.5%. This unfiltered wine is made from grapes planted by Nicolas’s father in the 1990s. It combines half grapes macerated for a week with half directly pressed juice. The result is a vibrant wine with bright citrus, orange peel, and herbal notes. The finish is marked by a crystalline citrus core and lively acidity. Rating: 94/100 -
Nicolas Chemarin P’Tit Grobis Beaujolais Villages 2022 France
Alcohol: 12%. This is the domaine’s main production. Made with whole bunches for 10-15 days, it demonstrates elegant purity with bright red cherry and redcurrant fruit. The structure is light yet presents an exquisite spice framing the fruit. Rating: 94/100 -
Nicolas Chemarin On the Rock Again Marchampt 2021 Vin de France
This wine is crafted from older vines and was made without sulfites, hence its designation as Vin de France. It features lively, spicy aromatics with bright cherry and raspberry notes, finishing with a unique peppery detail and sweet acidity. Rating: 93/100 -
Nicolas Chemarin La Haute Ronze Régnié 2021
Sourced from a clay-rich area, this wine undergoes a 20-day maceration with aging in wood. It presents a structured profile with bright cherry and raspberry fruit, accompanied by fine spices and a crisp acid line. Rating: 93/100 -
Nicolas Chemarin Le Rocher Beaujolais Villages 2019
This higher-altitude wine is known for its textured profile, with sweet strawberry and red cherry fruit alongside minerality and spice. Rating: 94/100 -
Nicolas Chemarin Morgon Corcelette 2018
An established vintage showcasing depth with savory notes beneath the black cherry and blackberry fruit. It finishes firmly and is food-friendly. Rating: 92/100 -
Nicolas Chemarin Je Tai dans La Peu 2021 Vin de France
A unique Chardonnay aged for 14 months in barrel post-maceration. Its bold profile features lime and spice alongside a savory twist, making it a gastronomic choice. Rating: 93/100