Val do Salnés: A Unique Terroir
Sarah Marsh MW embarks on a journey through Val do Salnés, a notable Galician subregion of Rías Baixas known for its distinctive terroir and potential for exceptional wines. With only eight days to spare, she decides to walk the Camino Portuguese from Porto to Santiago, making stops to visit two of her favorite local producers, Eulogio Pomares and Manuel Moldes.
Marsh begins her exploration early with a brisk 20km trek to meet Eulogio Pomares in Pontevedra. As they travel through the parishes of Meis and Meaño, Pomares advocates for the Salnés Valley to be recognized as distinct subregions reflecting its varied terroirs.
The first stop is Meis, located 15 km inland, where the vineyards thrive in warmer conditions away from the Atlantic breeze. Pomares notes that climate change has further increased temperatures in this area. They then move to Meaño, positioned closer to the coast, where ocean influences shape the vineyard outcomes, with vineyards planted amid local homes.
Arriving in Castelo, Pomares highlights the benefits of the coastal estuary, which offers a moderated climate leading to better ripeness and complex aromatic profiles in the wines. Pomares manages the Pedraneira vineyard, known for its rich terroir and high-quality grapes, expressing his concern over the abandonment of old vineyards by local families.
The unique soil composition in Castelo, comprising red clay, granite, and sand, contributes to the individual characteristics of the wines. Pomares’s 2018 vintage from Pedraneira is rich with flavors of caramelized orange peel and honey, reflecting careful vinification techniques, including slow whole-bunch pressing.
Marsh then travels inland to Zarate’s vineyards, comparing the harder granite found in Meaño to the softer soils of Castelo, which affect vine development and wine profiles. Pomares describes how the oppressive granite can lead to sharp, acidic wines without sufficient rainfall. The conversation meanders to the region’s challenges, particularly addressing the effects of climate change on harvest schedules.
Pomares shows his commitment to expressing single vineyard terroir, including a tasting of the El Palomar wine that showcases the unique characteristics of the vineyard after years of focused cultivation.
The narrative shifts as Marsh meets Manuel Moldes, whose winery illustrates the fusion of traditional and innovative winemaking practices. After transitioning from banking to his family’s winemaking, Moldes expanded production sustainably, producing around 80,000 bottles from various parcels.
Their fast-paced vineyard tour highlights Moldes’ approach to using granite soil, achieving wines with concentrated citrus notes and notable salinity. Each vineyard they visit reveals distinctive terroirs reflected in the wines, such as the Cesteira, composed of robust schist that adds strength and complexity.
Moldes and Pomares both emphasize the individuality of their wines, hinting at the potential for the region to be divided into subregions based on terroir. However, achieving this requires collaborative efforts among local producers, resorting to market demands and consumer preferences.
As Marsh wraps up her exploration, she acknowledges that changing the appellation system is a long-term endeavor that requires meticulous mapping of the local terroir. As she prepares to leave for her next trek, her experiences in Val do Salnés solidify the region’s promise for unique, terroir-driven wines.