Is the Clash Between Modernism and Tradition Over?
The debate between modernism and tradition in wine has been ongoing since the Enlightenment, impacting various aspects of society and culture, including the wine industry, which has long championed its traditional roots. The concept of modernity versus tradition is not new, with its origins tracing back to medieval Europe. In the wine world, this tension manifests in the application of winemaking technologies and methods versus the adherence to historical practices.
In the early 20th century, cultural movements defined the notion of modernity. By the century’s end, science became a cornerstone of modern winemaking, often discredited by critics who felt it diminished the craft’s intrinsic values. Yet, in winemaking, science is crucial in ensuring quality—from fermentation processes involving indigenous versus cultured yeasts to managing viticultural practices suited to changing climates. However, techniques such as irrigation remain contentious, especially in Europe, where traditional methods of grape cultivation are still favored.
The modernist-traditionalist argument frequently focuses on the merits of new techniques versus established styles. In Barolo, for example, traditionalists shunned new oak barrels, associating them with a loss of the Nebbiolo grape’s character, while modernists embraced them to enhance flavor profiles and address past flaws in the wines. Over time, this division has evolved into a more pragmatic approach where winemakers now see choices in container types—whether new or old oak, stainless steel, or concrete—as integral to maintaining or evolving wine styles.
Interestingly, the wine industry often presents itself as steeped in tradition, especially larger brands that mimic classic winemaking techniques in an increasingly industrial context. Sophisticated production methods can yield wines through processes reminiscent of oil refining, leading to effects traditionally achieved through aging in wooden barrels without fully abandoning contemporary practices.
The perception of what tradition means is fluid; every era has co-opted modern practices into a claim of tradition. Historical shifts in winemaking, such as the introduction of wood barrel aging and the normalization of new oak post-World War II, exemplify how tradition is both a product of its time and a marketing tool.
Climate change now poses a significant challenge to established traditions in winemaking. As climate conditions shift, qualities traditionally associated with certain wine styles, such as lower alcohol levels and subtle flavors, are becoming harder to maintain. This raises essential questions about the essence of tradition in a rapidly evolving world. Is it merely based on grape varieties, or does it encompass broader stylistic characteristics?
In Bordeaux, the traditional grape varieties reflect a relatively recent custom, with practices continually adapting to climatic conditions over the centuries. As modern winegrowers respond to climate’s effects on varieties and alcohol levels, they might reconsider which grapes are most suitable for traditional wines, potentially even reviving historically significant grapes abandoned due to earlier climatic challenges.
The suggestion of reintroducing historically prominent varieties such as Carmenère or Malbec has sparked discussions around adapting to climate, as these grapes once contributed to the identity of Bordeaux wines. Furthermore, the idea of incorporating varietals like Syrah or Grenache into regions like Bordeaux or Burgundy raises intriguing possibilities for maintaining traditional wine characteristics in a changing climate.
Reflecting on traditions also means challenging existing frameworks like the AOP system, which may restrict flexibility in adapting to modern conditions. The balance of seeking a traditional style while remaining responsive to climate change suggests that embracing modern techniques may be crucial for preserving the essence of traditional winemaking.
Ultimately, the interplay between modernism and tradition in winemaking is more complex and intertwined than it might initially appear. With climate change’s profound impact, the industry’s response may require embracing modern practices to ensure that the spirit of tradition endures in an increasingly dynamic environment.