Margaret Rand encounters the duo behind a rapidly developing sparkling wine producer based in Arundel.
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Trevor Clough and Jason Humphries have established a thriving English sparkling wine label by embracing the négociant method at Digby Fine English. With the recent purchase of a vineyard, they are poised for new ventures, as noted by Margaret Rand.
“Greensand, how do I adore thee? Let me enumerate the ways.” While Trevor Clough may not literally echo Elizabeth Barrett Browning when expressing his affection for this particular vineyard soil, concepts of depth, breadth, and height certainly play a role. Perfect balance? Absolutely. “I cherish it and construct my wines around it,” he explains, describing a structure likened to a lift-shaft with an umami nuance. Grapes sourced from clay soils provide additional richness.
Blending is the essence of Digby—or more formally, Digby Fine English. This approach is quite distinct within the realm of English wine, as it does not hinge on vineyard ownership. The concept emerged from an enlightening moment and practical insights from sparkling-wine experts in California. It’s recognized as a négociant brand, which has begun to explore the acquisition of its own vineyards while gaining greater control over its supply chain. The establishment features a contemporary tasting room in Arundel, West Sussex, and the founders are contemplating entering the vineyard tourism sector. Will they conform to the conventional idea of adding a restaurant, perhaps even striving for Michelin-star status? Or will they maintain their unique direction?
Let’s start at the very beginning, and thankfully, this does not lead us to Sir Kenelm Digby, or we’d be here indefinitely. Sir Kenelm serves as a somewhat appropriated piece of history, a tactic frequently employed by many brands, particularly those that are new to the scene. Even some Champagne houses adopt this practice. Notably, Sir K was responsible for creating the modern wine bottle crafted from sturdier glass—a design that Clough possesses a replica of, yet he has not yet utilized it for his wines.
To delve deeper, Jason Humphries, Clough’s partner, has an impressive background. He rowed for his college, Trinity Hall, at Cambridge and also achieved a PhD, DPhil, and MA, specializing in speech recognition and engineering during his nine-year tenure there. His career began in speech science, and it was in Boston, Massachusetts, that he crossed paths with Clough, who was immersed in management consultancy—a phase she describes as “entrepreneurial boot camp.” Clough’s education includes attendance at the Frankfurt International School and subsequently Brown University, followed by an MBA from the London Business School. He also accumulated experience at Oracle Corporation, recognized as a leader in cloud technology.
“That experience instilled in me a profound respect for the essence of entrepreneurship,” Clough reflects. “In the realm of wine, having a vision is essential.” Together with Humphries, they started pondering their future legacy—Clough asks, “Are we bringing joy to others? What will be our contribution to the world?”
The transition to the wine industry wasn’t immediate. While they enjoyed wine and drank it regularly, it was often intertwined with memories of travels and companions: evenings spent watching the sunset and reflecting on life. “The wine, sunsets, and friendships became a repository of memories,” Clough recalls.
The duo aspired to establish a business that would leave a lasting mark. “During a holiday, we visited Domaine Ste Michelle—an obscure estate that few had ever heard of—and it struck us like a bolt from the blue. I remarked, ‘English sparkling wine.’ Jason was taken aback and exclaimed, ‘What?’ and I replied, ‘Exactly!’ Amidst the flood of opinions, there lies a true gem that awaits discovery. At that point, we had never sampled English wine before.”
Upon returning home, which was now England during the early 2000s, they engaged in numerous blind tastings. “Some wines stood out as exceptional”—while others did not. Clough and Humphries were determined to ensure that their endeavor would not only exist but flourish. “Our goal was excellence; we aimed to absorb as much knowledge as possible to understand what that entailed. With my structured mindset, I recognized the need for vineyards, winemaking infrastructure, business acumen, and a customer base. I assumed we would begin by establishing a vineyard.” They also sought mentorship and traveled to California, reaching out to ten sparkling-wine producers. “Nine agreed to meet with us. They affirmed our instincts and intentions were promising yet cautioned about the execution. ‘Owning a vineyard doesn’t guarantee quality for many years,’ they explained. ‘Great wines simply cannot emerge from mediocre grapes.’ They inquired, ‘Where are the finest vineyards in the UK?’ We responded, ‘No one knows how to evaluate them.’ Thus, they advised, ‘That’s your opportunity. Blending lets you choose the best vineyards. In established wine regions, you’d function as a négociant for volume; in the UK, it’s a matter of quality.’ Their guidance proved invaluable.”
They began their journey with a single grower, then expanded to two, and now operate with four or five, including one of the original two. “For me, it’s all part of the joy and challenge,” Clough remarks about his collaboration with the growers. “We prefer not to have an excessive number. If you include too many elements in a blend, you risk losing your focus and authenticity.” When it comes to selecting the right sites, he admits, “That can mean making difficult choices,” a process that can be quite challenging.
They honed their understanding by tasting a myriad of options: ripening fruit on the vines, juice extracted from the press, young wine that remains on the lees, mature wine still on the lees, and everything in between. “Every tasting provides a distinct insight into the wine’s aging potential. Thus, I can discuss the differences between greensand and chalk,” explains Clough.
However, he emphasizes that he is not the winemaker. The winemaker was Dermot Sugrue, who crafted wine at Wiston. The second piece of wisdom shared by the Californians was, “Don’t construct a winery. Do nothing. Great wine is produced by a great winemaker.” They sought one who could collaborate effectively. Sugrue, without a doubt, qualifies as a great winemaker, and during his time at Wiston, he was involved in a significant amount of contract winemaking. The advice also included, “Ideally, you want someone for decades since the journey will be unpredictable.”
Sugrue has since moved on from Wiston to concentrate on his own wines, and since 2022, Digby has been crafted by Ben Smith at Itasca, who serves as a contract winemaker—a custom crush—in Hampshire. But that only applies until the bottling stage; beyond that, everything is executed at Madehurst, at Artelium’s winery where Sugrue now produces his wine. Dermot remains a consultant, “and he and I dedicate considerable time with Ben on essential decisions and blending, which is ultimately my domain,” Clough states. “I’ve granted him a veto, which he has exercised twice—and I wished he hadn’t. Our thought processes differ greatly, which is a source of strength. Ben’s approach is even more distinct: He’s a scientist, focusing on procedure and numbers.”
To take a step back for a moment, why venture all the way to California for guidance on establishing a wine business in England? According to Clough, California embodies a European essence; moreover, they excel at creating something from scratch, “and we admired their spirit.” Although they were informed it would be quite a journey, Clough shares, “if anyone had told me back then that we’d be aging on the lees for five to seven years, I’d have been in shock.”
They made their debut in 2013 with their 2009 vintage. Then in 2020, amidst the lockdown, Clough found himself awake at night pondering, “What’s next?”
What came next was the decision to acquire a vineyard. They had always had a sense that this day would come, just as they anticipated professionalizing their business and taking on more winery responsibilities. Now, they concluded, was the right time to act.
In 2021, they purchased Hilden Vineyard, which had first been established in 1978. The vineyard came under the ownership of Philip Wright in 2015, who had acquired it as a retirement project and subsequently replanted it with the classic three sparkling varieties. In 2020, he expanded it to 3ha (7.5 acres) and 10,500 vines, composed of 42% Pinot Noir, 12% Meunier, with the remainder being Chardonnay. Previously, the fruit had been sent to Digby, but now the vineyard supplied Digby, with Wright taking on the role of chairman there. “There’s something incredibly unique about that location,” Clough remarks. “If you had asked me ten years ago what type of soil I desired, I would have said chalk; a year or two later, greensand came to mind. When you’re new to the region, chalk seems to be everything,” he explains later. Yet, “a great deal of my craft revolves around patience and understanding the grapes”—and now, for him, greensand has emerged as the hallmark of quality.
Hilden, despite its main characteristics, features clay soil. Recently, a second vineyard has been leased, located on greensand. This new vineyard offers a different profile compared to their original grower-owned greensand vineyard, which is marked by a linear, sharp-angled quality with a lot of pointed notes, depth, and a pronounced umami character. The newly acquired vineyard also reflects umami but in a subtler, rounder fashion. Situated at a lower elevation, it is planted with the three grape varieties as well. “I can never have too much Meunier,” remarks Clough.
The overall balance of soils now consists of just slightly over half greensand, complemented by substantial clay and a hint of chalk. They produced more Non-Vintage than Vintage, with the Vintage carrying a higher proportion of greensand and the Non-Vintage featuring more clay. In 2022, they also bottled a single-vineyard wine that will not be released for several years, and they anticipate producing a Vintage rosé every four to five years, dependent on acquiring a “spectacular” Pinot Noir parcel.
So, how does Clough approach the assembly of the wine? He explains, “Jason and I devised our own criteria for determining what should be included in Digby. I see myself as a blender rather than a winemaker. My goal is to select the finest vineyard sites in the country—the top 5%. Science and knowledge inform some decisions, but not all.” The winemaking process is reductive: “Dermot advised me, ‘Just learn to be patient.’ I had initial apprehensions about reductive winemaking,” he shares.
In 2019, just nine months prior to the lockdown, they took over a tasting room in Arundel, residing in a large Georgian building that was previously a NatWest bank, conveniently near the summit of the high street. “We envisioned a vibrant, luxurious location in the town center that resonated with country living and tourism, easily accessible via train from London. Although our tasting room is somewhat unique, we attract visitors from America, who are drawn to such experiences; there’s a considerable culture surrounding tasting-room visits.” They also offer local cheese and charcuterie in this space, but will the hospitality aspect expand in the future?
Absolutely, the answer is yes, although they are still deliberating on the ‘how.’ “We consider it often. Our passion for the wine industry was sparked by visiting vineyards worldwide and enjoying the experiential aspect of it.” As for a restaurant? “We’ll see. I’m not entirely sure, but we’re open to possibilities.”
A significant concern is climate change. “The first six years we experienced were quite different from the following six. The requirements for vineyard management have changed considerably, and not all growers are prepared to adapt. Since 2018, acids in the wines have decreased, and they have become rounder; in simpler terms, the fruit has ripened more. However, we hesitate to frame it that way because if we were able to produce age-worthy wines before, we wonder how their aging might change now. It’s possible we are going through a short warm phase, and if conditions revert, it could take many by surprise, but it would be a favorable scenario for me because I understand how those wines age. And I’m not producing still wine.”
Humphries currently serves as a non-executive director at Digby, a decision that Clough considers “one of the best ever made.” The initial team at Digby consisted of four members, which has now expanded to ten: “We have progressed tremendously and assembled a competent team. Jason and I share the same values and intentions, yet we approach things differently. He possesses a PhD in science and an engineering background, giving him a unique perspective; every dinner feels like a board meeting. Bringing him on board enabled us to hire a professional finance expert, a corporate salesperson for the tasting room, and a marketing manager. We divided his previous responsibilities among three roles: two sommeliers and an accountant.” He adds, “There’s a blend of idealism and pragmatism within me; I believe that contributes to our continued success.”
Reflecting on the past, if he could change anything, it would be to have professionalized the staff earlier. “As the owner-operator, you start taking on more responsibilities, and you don’t progress as swiftly as you might alongside experienced individuals.”
The landscape of English wine has transformed significantly. “There will come a time when the demand for English wine is substantial enough to create a pool. There’s already much more of a pool now; when we first began, you wouldn’t find any English wines offered by the glass in restaurants. Now, they’re everywhere.” The same can be said for premium cuvées. Is Digby looking to join this trend? “We aim for Digby to represent a standard of excellence while also ensuring that people see the value in our wine. Last summer, we introduced our Vintage blanc de blancs, which has been aged for ten years and spent nine years in the bottle. We considered a marketing strategy for a premium cuvée and set the price for [the Vintage blanc de blancs] at £65 per bottle, while prestige offerings start at £100.”
They benefit from a level of prestige due to their longstanding partnership with Leander, an official collaborator. For those unfamiliar with the allure of Henley Regatta, Leander is both a historic rowing club and a popular social hub during the summer regatta. The club is named after the legendary Leander who perished in the Hellespont. “Jason rowed for his college at Cambridge, and we always attended Henley. The chairman [of Leander] challenged me… ”
When asked about his investments thus far, Clough responds, “Approximately £5 million, with the possibility of millions more ahead—but a steady, measured approach is key. It hinges on how large we want to grow. Currently, we produce about 10,000 cases, with a potential increase to 15,000, but we’re not aiming for massive scale. Our focus will remain on enhancing quality.” Could this involve establishing their own winery? “Never say never. However, the level of excellence I envision is so high that simply having ambition and resources won’t suffice. A winery is merely a physical structure filled with tanks; the real essence of a winery lies in its people and their experience.”