Website: https://deloachvineyards.com/
Established in 1975 by Cecil De Loach, De Loach emerged as one of the pioneering wineries after the Prohibition era in what is currently recognized as the Russian River Valley. Since 2003, the winery has been under the ownership of Boisset, who, in addition to their extensive wine operations in France, also oversees Raymond in Napa Valley. They source grapes from a variety of Sonoma vineyards, while managing a 17-acre estate vineyard that has held biodynamic certification since 2009.
On a bright July day, I had the opportunity to sample their wine portfolio and explore the surrounding vineyards. I also experienced the JCB wines crafted by Jean-Charles Boisset, who happened to be in the area for a company conference and joined us for a delightful lunch.
Brian Maloney, the winemaker at De Loach, who guided the tasting, commented, “The Russian River Valley is one of the most poorly delineated AVAs. It stretches from Chalk Hill, known for Cabernet, to Green Valley. It could have been defined differently, but it’s the landscape we have today, and we must make the best of it.”
De Loach Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2022 Sonoma County
The foundation of this wine comes from the Estate and the BCD vineyard in the region. It is composed of 80% barrel fermentation and 20% concrete, with a full malolactic process. This wine showcases a delightful balance of ripe pear and citrus flavors, complemented by finely spiced nuances and a beautiful texture. Rated 92/100.
De Loach Hawk Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 Green Valley, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This Chardonnay is fresh, bright, and exhibits a linear precision. It features gentle notes of pear and peach, harmonizing with a high acidity that keeps the wine vibrant. The oak influence is subtle, allowing the pure fruit core to shine through, finishing with a touch of saltiness. The crispness is remarkable. Rated 94/100.
De Loach Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 Green Valley, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Grown in the early 1990s in an area often referred to as the Banana belt, this Chardonnay stands out with its distinctive profile. It presents flavors of pear, almond, and white peach, accentuated by lemon and mandarin zest, plus a hint of pineapple. The wine is characterized by good acidity, fine spices, and a captivating fruit presence. Rated 94/100.
De Loach Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 Middle Reach, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Harvested from an ancient volcanic cinder cone, the soil here consists of compacted volcanic ash and fine sandy particles. This wine is brightly aromatic, featuring a lovely spicy character alongside a hint of saltiness in the pear and peach flavors. It exudes liveliness and spice, with notable intensity and focus, along with pineapple and mandarin notes. Rated 93/100.
De Loach Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 Olivet Bench, Sonoma
Featuring an alcohol content of 14.5%, this wine is crafted using biodynamic farming practices. It presents a delightful harmony of richness and freshness, showcasing ripe pear and peach flavors intertwined with subtle notes of aniseed. The mouthfeel is impressive, displaying a lovely weight complemented by a mealy texture, while the elevated alcohol lends a touch of sweetness and body, culminating in a finish reminiscent of sake. Rated 94/100.
De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2022 Sonoma
Also at 14.5% alcohol, this wine offers ripe, sweet, and dark flavors, highlighted by rich notes of blackberry and raspberry balanced with nice acidity. It is generous and approachable, exhibiting good weight and focus, along with a pleasing depth. Rated 92/100.
De Loach Swicegood Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Sonoma
This single-site wine, originating from a cool ridge in the Green Valley with slopes facing south and west, is both ripe and rich. It features brooding black fruit flavors alongside tea notes, a touch of anise, and hints of blackberry jam. This wine shows remarkable character and personality, earning a rating of 95/100.
De Loach Pennachio Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Sebastopol Hills, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This wine strikes a balance between freshness and richness, with sweet and seamless berry and cherry flavors. It showcases fine-grained tannins that reveal a sweet core and sleekness. There’s a hint of saltiness, paired with an easy richness and good definition. Rated 93/100.
De Loach Maboroshi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 Sebastopol Hills, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This wine stands out for its freshness, precision, and well-defined profile, showcasing ripe cherry and berry flavors complemented by a subtle structure. It possesses decent depth alongside bright acidity, indicating that it has excellent aging potential. Overall, it is a polished offering. 94/100
De Loach Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 Olivet Bench, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This vintage is characterized by its power and finesse, exhibiting a well-structured profile with delightful sweet cherry and berry notes. Despite its full ripeness, it remains tightly knit, showcasing impressive berry and cherry qualities. A remarkably impactful wine that demonstrates significant potential for further development. 95/100
De Loach Russian River Valley Zinfandel 2019 Sonoma
This wine has an alcohol content of 15.5%, with an average vine age of approximately 50 years, sourced from two different sites. It offers ripe, sweet, and luscious flavors with jammy notes of strawberry and blackberry. The finish presents a pleasing lushness with a hint of saltiness, making it rich and enjoyable. 92/100
De Loach Barricia Vineyard Zinfandel 2022 Sonoma Valley
Rooted in the historical Hooker Vineyard, much of which dates back to the early 1900s, this wine includes 10% Petite Sirah that is co-planted. It boasts a profound depth of flavor, featuring bold blackberries and cherries accompanied by nice spiciness and a hint of saltiness on the finish. The berry notes are elevated by some herbal nuances and impressive precision, with a touch of mint for added complexity. 93/100
De Loach Maffei Vineyard Zinfandel Olivet Bench 2021 Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This wine boasts a fresh, supple character with fruity notes that carry a hint of salt alongside sweet raspberry and cherry flavors, complemented by touches of strawberry. It is bold and unadulterated, featuring a liqueur-like quality that highlights its lovely intensity and balance. Rating: 95/100
De Loach Forgotten Vines Zinfandel 2021 Sonoma County
A combination from older vineyards, this Zinfandel is ripe and expressive, showcasing delightful sweet black fruits. It presents a good structure and weight, combined with admirable complexity. The purity of the fruit is accentuated by complex hints of black tea and dried herbs, along with a pleasing grainy texture. Truly enjoyable. Rating: 94/100
DeLoach Vineyards Fanucchi–Wood Road Vineyard Zinfandel 2021 Olivet Bench, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This wine features 16.5% alcohol content and is sourced from centenarian dry-farmed head-trained vines. It is bold, rich, and textured, highlighting a core of sweet cherry and berry flavors, with notes of aniseed, a hint of mint, and a noticeable presence of alcohol. It maintains freshness and focus while offering significant complexity. The finish is marked by dry, dusty tannins that balance the sweetness of the alcohol. Rating: 93/100
JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset Chardonnay No 81 2018 Sonoma Coast, California
Named after the year Jean-Charles made his first trip to California, this Chardonnay is rich, toasty, and mealy, featuring bold pear and peach flavors. It displays refinement with depth and freshness, presenting an enjoyable spiciness throughout. Rating: 94/100
JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset Chardonnay No 33 2022 Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
This wine, sourced from Hawk Hill and Ritchie vineyards, represents a selective barrel choice. It offers a smooth mouthfeel alongside enticing flavors of almond and pear, complemented by vibrant citrus notes, and a hint of cedar and clove. There’s an attractive concentration of fruit, rounded off with spicy undertones on the finish. Rating: 96/100
JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset Pinot Noir 7 2022 Sonoma Coast, California
The number 7 pays homage to the age when Jean-Charles first experienced wines that left a lasting impression on him, specifically a 1957 Clos de Vougeout and a 1945 Charmes Chambertin, tasted in 1976. This wine is supple and flavorful, with fine spices that harmonize beautifully. It showcases ripeness balanced by elegance and a refined texture. Truly a delightful wine. Rating: 96/100
JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset Pinot Noir No 22 2022 Sonoma Coast, California
This wine is characterized by its elegance and purity, featuring sweet notes of cherries and raspberries. It boasts great clarity with supple fruit and finely textured tannins. Its complexity is enhanced by hints of blood, spices, and dried herbs. Rating: 96/100
JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset Pinot Noir No 3 2022 (California and Burgundy)
This blend combines wines from both Burgundy and Sonoma, with the Burgundy component being air-freighted to California in a specialized tank before blending at De Loach Winery. It presents vibrant and lively characteristics, with intricate spices and flavors of black cherry and raspberry. Background notes of spice and earth, along with a hint of mint, offer depth. The wine reveals ripeness and a satisfying structure, indicating its finesse and potential for aging. Rating: 95/100