Website: https://martinelliwinery.com/
Martinelli stands as a prime example of the esteemed traditional wineries in the Russian River Valley. During my visit, I had the pleasure of meeting Julianna Martinelli, a member of the family still engaged in the winery’s operations, overseeing sales and marketing, along with winemaker Courtney Wagoner. They have built a reputation for crafting bold wines that often carry higher alcohol content, yet these wines truly excel in quality.
Julianna shared a brief history of their lineage. Her great grandparents, Giuseppe and Luisa, originally from Tuscany, made the brave choice to elope as teenagers due to familial disapproval of their relationship. Luisa’s father, struggling with alcoholism, would take any money she earned, which contributed to her reluctance to remain in her previous life.
The couple made their journey to the United States aboard a cattle boat in the mid-1880s. After arriving in Forestville in 1885, Giuseppe found work with a farmer in Grayton, tending to an old Zinfandel vineyard. With only Sundays off, he explored the area along Green Valley Creek and came across what is now known as Martinelli’s Jackass vineyard. This vineyard was already established, with no clear record of its planting, but Giuseppe purchased it in 1889. “We believe it could be one of the oldest vineyards in the USA,” reflects Louisa. They established their homestead on the property, where Giuseppe also produced charcoal from trees to sell. Until 1960, River Road served as a train line, allowing him to transport his coal for heating homes. Additionally, they crafted prune brandy from their orchard.
The era of Prohibition arrived, and great grandmother Luisa found herself in jail for bootlegging. However, there’s a fascinating story behind this incident. They operated a moonshine still and greased the palms of officials to keep their operations running. Although they were permitted to produce a limited quantity of wine as a bonded winery, distilling was strictly off-limits. Yet, they continued to distill spirits to generate revenue to cover their property taxes—many faced losing their land for this very reason, as the income was insufficient to meet the tax demands.
In her quest for true Italian brides for her sons, she sent money to Italy to procure two mail-order brides. These intended brides boarded a ship but instead fell for members of the band and decided to move to New York. Consequently, she sent her sons to Italy to marry two sisters, Natalina and Giuseppa. They made their way to America, but by then, the sheriff had been demanding additional payments to keep the still’s location a secret. When she refused to comply, she was incarcerated. Thus, the first encounter between her daughters-in-law and her was during her time in jail.
The sixth generation is now part of the Martinelli legacy. During his youth, her father was discouraged from pursuing farming and chose to become a high school teacher in Santa Rosa while also managing Jackass Hill. The grapes from that land were sold off. After the passing of his uncle Tony Bondi, who owned a vast apple orchard, her father faced a pivotal decision. He completed the school year and turned to apple farming, gradually converting the orchard into grape vineyards.
We drove to explore the Jackass Vineyard and the adjacent Jackass Hill Vineyard, both of which are striking. Jackass was already established when the Martinellis acquired it in 1889, making it quite old. Meanwhile, Jackass Hill consists of a steep 2.5-acre plot that was planted in 1892. The ancient Zinfandel vines resemble small trees, standing testament to the vineyard’s long history.
Martinelli produces wines exclusively from their own vineyards.
Martinelli Charles Ranch Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 Fort Ross Seaview, West Sonoma Coast
Crafted from the Old Wente Clone planted in 1981 at a density of 800 vines per acre. This wine displays a rich and textural profile, showcasing bold pear and citrus notes complemented by subtle toasty nuances. It strikes a balance between pure linearity and mid-palate richness, featuring delicate hints of anise and dried herbs, along with a delightful purity and perhaps a whisper of salinity. Rated 95/100.
Martinelli Zio Tony Ranch Chardonnay 2021 Russian River Valley
Situated in the Laguna Ridge neighborhood with its distinctive red Goldridge soil laced with iron, this wine is highly fragrant, bursting with open pear and peach characters, accented by fine spices. The palate offers a rich experience with ripe pear flavors and a juicy lemon finish. It presents a lovely convergence of luscious fruit, warmth on the mid-palate, and remarkable balance leading to its finish. Rated 94/100.
Martinelli Three Sisters Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Fort Ross Seaview, Sonoma Coast
With an alcohol content of 14.9%, this wine is cultivated with 2000 vines per acre, utilizing Dijon clones alongside a touch of Pommard. It boasts highly aromatic profiles of floral red cherry and anise notes, enriched with a hint of cinnamon. The palate is supple, offering sweetly ripe strawberry and cherry characteristics, all while maintaining a sense of freshness. It’s a lovely offering in a rich style, exuding a liqueur-like quality to the fruit while retaining elegance and vibrancy. Rated 94/100.
Martinelli Winery Bondi Home Ranch Pinot Noir 2022 Russian River Valley
Tony Bondi was a prominent apple cultivator in the area. However, when the market collapsed in the late 1990s, he decided to plant this vineyard in 1997. This vineyard is notable for being the first to bloom and the last to harvest. It offers a ripe, fruity character that’s generous with a touch of richness, showcasing lush, ripe cherry flavors complemented by a smooth mouthfeel and gentle tannins. While there is a hint of spicy structure, the focus is on ripe, easy-going fruit that is incredibly approachable. 91/100
Martinelli Zio Tony Ranch Pinot Noir 2022 Russian River Valley
15.2% alcohol. This wine incorporates six clones: 115, 777, 667, Calera, Quail Hill, and Elite. It displays a concentrated and rich character while still feeling fresh, featuring bold cherry and berry notes, enhanced by a smoothness from the higher alcohol content. Despite its richness, it has a seamless texture and elegance, making it a distinctive wine. 93/100
Martinelli Lolita Ranch Zinfandel 2021 Russian River Valley
16.3% alcohol. Situated on Martinelli Road, this steep site was planted in 2001 within the Green Valley neighborhood. This wine is powerful and bold, showcasing a core of sweet blackberry and black cherry flavors, complemented by a hint of saltiness and spicy notes. It has great concentration and delightful fruit quality, balanced by some warmth from the alcohol. The finish is salty with a touch of grainy tannins, contributing to the overall balance. 95/100
Martinelli Jackass Vineyard Zinfandel 2021 Russian River Valley
16.6% alcohol. This wine is characterized by its beautifully ripe and rich profile, featuring a lovely texture and depth in the fruit. It includes hints of black tea, anise, and sweet black cherries, mingled with some stewed strawberry notes. With remarkable intensity and depth, it also offers finesse, layered with genuine complexity and a warm finish that is quite pleasing. 95/100