Anthony Rose encounters an unpretentious Argentinian wine entrepreneur.
By Anthony Rose
Alejandro Bulgheroni may have entered the wine industry late, but he now boasts one of the largest collections of wineries globally.
Up until the age of 64, Alejandro Bulgheroni remained largely unaware of the land’s remarkable capacity for viticulture. His connection to the land primarily revolved around underground exploration for oil and gas, coupled with managing extensive areas of Argentina’s pampas for ranching. Unlike many of his peers, wine was not a part of his upbringing. However, after his revelation, which occurred at a time when most individuals are considering retirement, he swiftly cultivated one of the most expansive networks of wineries across the globe.
The moment of realization for Bulgheroni when he shifted his focus from oil drilling to exploring the world of wine was both surprising and serendipitous. This change of direction came about in 1997 when he began seeking a beachfront property at Punta del Este in Uruguay. Though he had always relished the local Malbec and “Chablis” as a youth, his interest in wine was minimal. After selling 250,000 hectares (620,000 acres) of family ranch land in Argentina, his wife Bettina was eager to continue ranching in Uruguay. In Garzón, close to Punta del Este, he made investments in ranching, focusing on forestry and livestock, and later introduced olive trees, launching his first wind farm in 2006 to support renewable energy for the farm.
The landscape from the ranch included a hill that seemed perfect for additional wind turbines. Upon further exploration, it revealed itself to be an enchanting setting of streams, elevations, trees, and stones. As he surveyed this picturesque scene from the hilltop, Bulgheroni felt a stirring of curiosity. The steep costs associated with solar and wind energy led him to contemplate utilizing the land for vineyards. He engaged a vineyard consultant from Mendoza, who expressed confidence in the area’s grape production prospects. He also reached out to renowned international wine consultant Alberto Antonini (see WFW 65, pp.106–09), who visited during Easter in 2007. Together, they assessed the soil, rainfall, and all other factors pertinent to the site’s suitability for viticulture.
The property was located just 11 miles (18km) from the Atlantic Ocean, benefiting from fresh ocean breezes and weathered rock soils, commonly referred to as balasto. After a week of analyzing the land, Antonini became increasingly certain of its hidden potential for vineyards. Bulgheroni had learned about the significance of terroir in crafting quality wine; it struck him as a touch ironic that an Argentinian had ventured away from his homeland to discover his wine journey in Uruguay.
Antonini proposed a gradual approach, suggesting they start by planting 4 or 5 hectares and then wait four or five years to evaluate the results. Bulgheroni countered, “Do you realize how old I am? I can’t afford to wait a decade to see if this works.” He recommended planting 40 hectares annually for the next four years, saying, “I’ll take the risk; you focus on the wine.” Antonini aimed to cultivate Tannat, which is the hallmark red grape of Uruguay, but Bulgheroni expressed reservations. He remarked, “It’s a bit too bold for my taste. I prefer wines that are easier to enjoy.” Antonini promised he would ensure the wine would be approachable.
In 2010, the duo crafted their inaugural Tannat, meeting the criteria for approachability. By 2015, they had constructed a winery recognized for its water efficiency and innovative design. The estate spans 240 hectares, primarily growing Tannat and Albariño grapes. Wine tourism is integral to the Garzón experience, featuring everything from cooking classes by the restaurant team to picnics on foot and by bicycle, as well as tastings. Their long-term vision includes establishing the property as a luxury destination. Bodegas Brisas soon emerged nearby. Located about 9 miles away, these vineyards benefit from distinct soils and the Atlantic breezes that assist in drying humidity resulting from heavy rains.
With the Argentinian government’s promotion of immigration in the latter part of the 19th century, many Italians migrated to Mendoza. They initially labored in vineyards, eventually earning the opportunity to cultivate their own small plots through sheer determination. Some prospered and grew into significant wine enterprises in the 20th century, such as those owned by Catena, Pulenta, and Zuccardi. Bulgheroni’s great-grandfather, Giovanni Alessandro, emigrated from Lombardy in 1873 and worked as a foreman for the British in the construction of the railway connecting Buenos Aires to Mendoza. His route to Mendoza, however, took an unexpected turn.
He made a stop at Rufino in Santa Fe, nearly 310 miles west of Buenos Aires, found it appealing, and chose to settle there. Bulgheroni’s grandfather, Angel; his father, Alejandro Angel; and he himself were all born in Rufino in 1943. He relished his childhood in Rufino, where the values of education and hard work were deeply instilled in him. The family spent summers in Cordoba at Colonia Caroya, immersed in the Piedmontese community known for producing wine, salami, fruit, olives, and other Italian cultural products. Together with his brother Carlos and sister Mercedes, he would venture into the vineyards, gathering the sweetest bunches of grapes for eating.
The family relocated to Buenos Aires when he was just ten years old. He describes it as “a big little town” at the time, and they settled in the peaceful suburb of Punta Chica. After completing his education at Marin, he was among the fortunate 200 students selected from 5,000 applicants for a spot at the University of Buenos Aires to pursue industrial engineering, despite his father’s desire for him to follow a path in economics. In 1964, he embarked on his first summer working on oil rigs in Comodoro Rivadavia, located in the Patagonian province of Chubut. By 1965, at the age of 22, he began working part-time with service units for oil wells and drilling rigs, eventually completing his degree at the University of Buenos Aires in 1967.
During his studies at the University of Texas, he focused on drilling and oil production. Argentina possesses substantial reserves of oil and gas, granting the country self-sufficiency and the ability to export gas to neighboring countries and oil globally. He spent the following five years in Comodoro Rivadavia before returning to Buenos Aires to work alongside his father until his passing in 1985. After his father’s death, he and his brother took charge of the Bridas Corporation, transforming it into the largest private energy enterprise in Argentina.
In 2008, when Carlos Pulenta, the founder of Bodega Vistalba, informed him that his partners were withdrawing, Bulgheroni decided to buy them out and acquire a 50% stake in Vistalba, which included its vineyards in Luján de Cujo and the Uco Valley. At this juncture, he set his sights on the United States as his primary wine market. In search of an ideal property with fertile soils, he discovered and purchased Renwood located in the Sierra Foothills of Amador County. While Malbec was the flagship variety in Argentina and Tannat in Uruguay, Bulgheroni was intrigued by the prospect of producing Zinfandel in the United States, a wine highly esteemed by the local California audience.
With a foothold established in California, he was drawn to Napa Valley. Though land prices were significantly higher there, the potential was clear. In 2016, he acquired a small winery, the former Founders Room of Harlan Estate, spanning 1.4 hectares (3.5 acres), and rebranded it as Lithology, undertaking renovations to enhance the infrastructure with new equipment aimed at producing fine wine. The estate vineyard, certified organic, lies at the base of Howell Mountain and the Vaca Mountain range, boasting well-drained, mineral-rich soils ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon. Lithology additionally sources fruit from several esteemed vineyards in Napa, such as Beckstoffer Dr Crane, To Kalon, and Las Piedras.
Around the same period, recognizing the demand for bulk wine production for both local consumption in Argentina and international markets, he took over the Argento brand along with its winery. This led to the establishment of Grupo Avinea, which encompasses 323 hectares in Mendoza and Chubut, making it the most prominent organic and sustainable wine producer in Argentina, yielding 800,000 cases of wine annually. The focus on sustainability is paramount, featuring organic vineyards, energy-efficient machinery, meticulous soil management, and an onsite treatment plant. While Argento was initially launched as a mass-production project, he was determined to enhance wine quality, thus it now crafts single-vineyard wines from Altamira and Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, as well as Alto Agrelo in Luján de Cuyo.
Disappointed that his remarkable Uruguayan olive oil was not receiving the recognition or appreciation it deserved in foreign markets, it seemed only logical for him to venture into Tuscany—not least because he and Bettina cherished the region. They were advised by Antonini, who possessed in-depth knowledge of Tuscany, to explore the finest terroirs for Sangiovese, culminating in the acquisition of the historic 625-hectare Dievole estate, featuring 157 hectares of vineyards situated in the Castelnuovo Berardenga area of Chianti Classico, just north of Siena, along with 9 hectares of olive groves. Overlooking Tuscany’s stunning scenery of undulating hills, the Dievole Wine Resort (derived from the Latin Duo vuole, meaning “God willing”) includes a hotel, swimming pool, and dining facilities, offering wine tours, beach excursions, yoga, hiking, and tastings of wine and olive oil.
Following this, he purchased the charming 4-hectare estate of Certosa di Pontignano in Chianti Classico, and with his connections firmly established in Tuscany, he proceeded to acquire two estates in Montalcino. The first acquisition was Poggio Landi, a 180-hectare estate with 62 hectares of vineyards, obtained from Fattoria dei Barbi and Tenuta Vitanza, which brought together vineyards from northern Montalcino and the southern areas around Castelnuovo dell’Abate. This was soon followed by the addition of Podere Brizio, located near Tavernelle, comprising 27 hectares of land, with 12 hectares planted with Sangiovese and 2 hectares with olive trees. The wines from Poggio Landi tend to be more approachable, while those from Podere Brizio offer greater complexity and the potential for extended aging.
Continuing his pursuit of premier appellations in the region, he acquired Tenuta I Pianali in Bolgheri from Lodovico Antinori in 2015, rebranding it as Le Colonne. The terroir is outstanding, with 61 hectares of vineyards cultivated at various elevations in the foothills of the Colline Metallifere, featuring international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Syrah, alongside Vermentino. His latest endeavor, Tenuta Meraviglia (which translates to “Marvel”), nestled in the hills with breathtaking views of the Tuscan coastline, encompasses 95 hectares of vineyards, including 34 hectares dedicated to Cabernet Franc.
Having secured his first classic European vineyard, it was time for him to invest in Bordeaux. To assist in this endeavor, he brought Michel Rolland on board for guidance, both in Bordeaux and at Lithology in Napa. His goal was to tap into the burgeoning Chinese market, which he believed was the future for Bordeaux exports. Following Rolland’s recommendations and knowing that the crus classés were financially unattainable for him, he acquired the 66-hectare (164-acre) Château Suau, a historic hunting lodge situated at the highest elevation in the Cadillac, Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. Transitioning to organic farming practices, Château Suau has been thriving in international markets, primarily due to its attractive pricing and sulfur-free organic wines.
By 2015, with no presence in the Far East market, he was eager to establish a foothold there as well. Initially, he contemplated a volume-oriented project, but he altered his approach and opted to produce quality wine by investing in the development of Alkina located in the Barossa Valley of Australia. The story of Alkina and the contributions of Chilean viticulturist Pedro Parra in its meticulous soil mapping can be found in my article in WFW 75 (pp.74–77). To summarize, from a limited selection of remarkable old-vine plots situated on top-quality Barossa soil, Alkina is creating some of the region’s finest wines, and Bulgheroni is excited about the property’s development, including its wine-tourism aspect, all under the expert guidance of Amelia Nolan, Dan Coward, and Alberto Antonini.
In many ways, Bulgheroni’s journey came full circle with the establishment of Bodega Otronia in Argentina’s southern Patagonia region. This venture not only marked a return to his homeland but also represented a homecoming to where his company had its first office in Sarmiento, close to the oil fields, back in 1959.
The governor of Chubut Province had been urging oil producers for a while to invest in the local community, particularly in ranching and fruit cultivation, but to no avail. However, upon beginning land acquisitions in Uruguay for olive grove establishment, Bulgheroni decided it was time to approach the governor with a solution. He engaged with the local community about acquiring land for the purpose of creating job opportunities for local women and their families, enabling them to work during the summer and support their households.
This action exemplifies Bulgheroni’s method of operation. His projects draw from both the realms of viticulture and engineering, a combination influenced by his professional history. He holds a strong conviction in uplifting local communities, creating job opportunities, enhancing working conditions, and, most importantly, entrusting these communities with the management of the initiatives.
Located at 45°33′ south, Otronia is situated in the heart of Chubut Province, alongside the shores of Lake Musters, previously known as Otron by the indigenous inhabitants. Bulgheroni acquired land and consulted an agronomist, proposing the cultivation of a diverse range of fruit crops that would mature at staggered intervals over a span of 120 days, thereby generating employment for the local populace. He introduced 27 different varieties of fruits, ultimately finding that cherries produced the most successful yield. Naturally, grapes were also planted, and in 2010, upon learning about their endeavors, Antonini conducted a study of the region, returning with great enthusiasm regarding the potential for winemaking in the area.
This region, known as Patagonia Extrema, experiences harsh winters, frequent frosts, and strong winds. The cool climate, along with significant temperature variations during the summer—ranging from 41 to 50°F (5–10°C) at night and reaching up to 95°F (35°C) during the day—enhances the aromatic intensity and flavor freshness of the wines produced. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were established in the property’s lacustrine soils, characterized by a composition of rocks and clay, and with aspirations of producing icewine, a small amount of Riesling and Gewürztraminer was also included. Currently, 50 hectares (125 acres) are under cultivation. Furthermore, they have crafted a metodo-tradicional brut nature blanc de blancs that has garnered recognition as one of Argentina’s premier sparkling wines.
Bulgheroni’s perspectives on sustainability are deeply rooted in his background as an oil and gas engineer. Each wine estate operates on its unique characteristics, devoid of a singular standard or model. Some estates aim exclusively at producing exquisite wines, while others may focus on scalable production. His philosophy embraces the notion of allowing each estate to authentically represent its environment, encapsulating its soils, rocks, climate, and cultural essence. Concurrently, these estates predominantly implement organic or biodynamic farming practices, with efforts to incorporate wind and solar energy into their operations.
Though it may seem surprising coming from a billionaire in the fossil fuels industry, his dedication to sustainability stems from a wish to give back to the earth what has been taken from it. He points out that sustainable agriculture is central to all his wine ventures, convinced that real, impactful change can only be made by nurturing the land, enhancing soil vitality, planting trees, and utilizing thoughtful water-management strategies. He views irrigation as a vital ally in the fight against climate change, recognizing it as a major hurdle but remaining optimistic about his capacity to tackle it.
Currently, Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards includes 14 wineries covering over 1,115 hectares (2,755 acres). ABFV symbolizes the family’s global winemaking endeavors, all connected by a common philosophy. “Throughout my life, I have engaged in various businesses, learning to collaborate with knowledgeable individuals, trusting them, and empowering them with responsibility,” Bulgheroni explains. “Together, we have developed an array of premium wines, each with its own distinct character and deep connection to its origin, capturing the unique terroir of the area. Did I make the right choice to enter the wine industry in 2007 at the age of 64? Definitely. I approach everything with passion—and my passion for the wine business is immense.”