A first taste of the inaugural single-vineyard white wine launched by a new project in the cherry-rich regions of Veneto.
By Robin Lee
Robin Lee finds herself captivated by La Collina dei Ciliegi Prea Bianco Verona IGT 2021.
Traveling through the scenic hinterlands of the Veneto is always a delight, but this particular day felt especially magical as it coincided with the peak of cherry season. The branches lining the roads were heavy with luscious, sweet red fruit. As its name suggests, La Collina dei Ciliegi, perched on the high plateau overlooking Valpantena, was historically known for its cherries.
Decades ago, grape farmers in Valpolicella depended on cherry cultivation to enhance their earnings, particularly during less fruitful years. However, with the breakdown of supply chains and the restructuring of food production towards national supermarket chains, fresh fruit has lost its profitability. In the area of Montecchio, located between the vineyards of Negrar and Grezzana, cherry trees still flourish, and on that day, their ripeness was irresistible, ready to be harvested. Yet, it seems only the seasoned cherry growers are enjoying the bounty, as no one else appears to be interested in the delightful cherries. An elderly man, cheerful with a cherry-like complexion, was savoring the cherries from his tree in a sprawling orchard heavy with ripe fruit. Propped against his weathered truck, and wearing an expression of pure joy, he invited me to indulge and take as many cherries as I wished. Unfortunately, without a basket and with an appointment a mere five minutes away in a region devoid of cherries, I had to decline. Despite the serendipitous timing and the evocative name of the estate, La Collina dei Ciliegi, my visit had nothing to do with cherries, which now feel like mere echoes of the past.
The memory of Anton Chekhov’s poignant final play The Cherry Orchard, penned in 1903, lingers in my mind. Yermolai Lopakhin, a man who has risen from humble beginnings as the grandson of serfs, ultimately acquires the estate that once belonged to his family’s former aristocratic owners, who must part with their cherished home filled with both joy and sorrow. The play concludes with the heart-wrenching sound of the cherished cherry trees being felled to pave the way for holiday homes. This narrative resurfaced in my thoughts as I entered the elegant wine resort and hotel Ca’ del Moro, where I was attending the presentation for Collina dei Ciliegi. Here, we savored the inaugural offering from what is touted as “the youngest and most revolutionary winery in the Valpantena,” reminiscent of a new act in a continuation of Chekhov’s story.
The premier wine from La Collina dei Ciliegi is Prea, a distinctive single-vineyard white IGT blend primarily composed of Garganega, the varietal renowned in the neighboring Soave, complemented by Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. Prea is crafted from grapes grown at altitudes between 1,870 and 2,030 feet, which imparts a marked minerality setting it apart from typical Garganega wines. It is genuinely exceptional, embodying the kind of white wine that is cherished in Italy. For white wine to thrive in Italy, it must pair well with fish and summer meals, without unnecessary complexity. Wines that are intricate do not reach the mainstream. I am certain that Yermolai Lopakhin, a fundamentally good man with a keen business sense, would wholeheartedly appreciate the merits of Prea.
Renowned agronomists and dedicated “terroir-hunters,” the husband-and-wife duo Claude and Lydia Bourguignon have provided their expertise on this venture, conducting thorough evaluations of the soil, showcasing the gravity of their work. Each decision made regarding the vineyard reflects a significant investment and a dedication to preserving the natural environment. The Bourguignon team suggested planting 8,000 vines per hectare since, according to Lydia, “a grand vin must have high density.” Rather than terracing the steep vineyards—which would disrupt the soil structure—they also advised the planting of white grape varieties, particularly on the Prea parcel, given the soil’s rich calcium content. This choice is likely to prove beneficial from a commercial perspective.
The demand for high-quality Italian white wine has surged, yet many regional producers have been slow to adapt and are only now attempting to bridge the market gap. La Collina dei Ciliegi’s wines are prestigious offerings targeted at the luxury sector, which is well-prepared to embrace them. Their success appears inevitable, even if the situation feels reminiscent of a Chekhovian narrative.
La Collina dei Ciliegi Prea Bianco Verona IGT 2021
The wine presents a subtle aroma and flavor profile, with gentle notes of violet, sunflower, marigold, and chamomile that transition into flavors of green agave, golden kiwi, and light citrus tones of green kumquat. Similar to the wines from Soave, it is well-balanced and restrained, featuring 13% ABV with moderate intensity and length. This is an uncomplicated wine that won’t divert your attention from savoring your sea bass, enjoying the view from your terrace over the rooftops of Venice, or appreciating the gaze of your loved one. 2024–25. | 90