An admirable new wine and travel atlas tells the stories behind a single but divided region, shaped by a complex and sometimes brutal history.
Caroline Gilby MW reviews North Adriatic: Friuli Venezia Giulia – West Slovenia – Istria – Kvarner by Paul Balke.
A winemaker friend in Istria once explained to me that his family had lived in the same house for the past two centuries, but the past four generations had had different passports. Ever since then, I’ve been fascinated by how ethnic and regional identity can become so important in the face of changing political identity—and nowhere is this illustrated more vividly than around the northern and northwestern edges of the Adriatic Sea. The aim of Paul Balke’s book North Adriatic is to forge a geographical connection for an area he perceives as a single but divided region, shaped by a complex and sometimes harsh history.
Netherlands-born Balke has a passion for both wine and the rich cultural and historical context of its creation, prompting him to extensively travel the North Adriatic region for his book. Unlike typical wine literature that divides by country, Balke opts for a cross-border perspective in his extensively illustrated, large-format book termed a wine and travel atlas. He explores Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy, Western Slovenia, Istria, and Kvarner, focusing on areas intertwined historically and culturally yet separated by fluid national boundaries. The book delves into their complex relations, underscoring both mutual histories and inherent contrasts. Notably, following World War II, harsh separations instigated by shifting borders between Italy and Yugoslavia fragmented communities and vineyards, entwining human and viticultural roots across several nations.
Balke remarks, “The complexity of the region stems from its historical context, necessitating a historical approach to fully grasp it.” He embarks on a detailed exploration starting from the Paleolithic period, intensifying from the Roman era through various epochs marked by invasions and dominances—from Slavic and Eastern groups, Germanic Longobards, Venetians, Habsburgs, Napoleon, and merchants of the Reformation, to the Austro-Hungarians, Italians, and the harsh realities of two world wars. Balke highlights a memorial in Oslavia for World War I, commemorating 57,000 fallen, and notes that landmines still threaten new vineyard plantings in Western Slovenia near the Italian border. Post-World War II era saw the split of the North Adriatic between Italy and Yugoslavia, leading to independence for Croatia and Slovenia by 1991.
The profound impacts of political mandates on regions like Brda and Collio (now split between Slovenia and Italy) is meticulously examined by Balke, noting that what had been one region, colloquially referred to as “hills” in both languages, partitioned in 1947. Historically unified, the regions’ community of growers initiated self-organization by 1872, a precursor to modern cross-border collaborations. A team of Austrian experts in the 19th century even recognized Collio’s wines as the finest in the Habsburg monarchy. Unfortunately, the vineyards and community suffered greatly post-1915 when allegiances were torn apart by World War I, subsequently dividing the area into two in 1947, splitting not just lands but communities into capitalist Italy and socialist Yugoslavia.
Most writers and communicators on wine currently emphasize the importance of terroir as a crucial element for quality and the connection between wine and its geographical origin. Terroir generally encompasses soil, climate, rainfall, and landform characteristics such as aspect and altitude. Increasingly, the human aspect of terroir is gaining recognition — the winemakers, their cultural backgrounds, and consequently, their choice of grape varieties and the styles of wine they produce. This factor contributes to both the similarities and differences within this region: Istria features its distinct Malvazija Istarska and Teran; in Western Slovenia (notably Brda), Rebula is prominent; and in Slovenian Istria and the Karst, varieties include Malvazija and Refošk, with Zelen and Pinela in the Vipava Valley. Each Italian subregion also showcases preferred grape varieties such as Friulano, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Verduzzo, and Schiopettino, among others. The author, Balke, adopts an initial transnational perspective rather than a limiting view commonly found in wine literature but later provides detailed analyses on what is cultivated where, albeit sometimes too briefly, about wine styles and quality. The grape variety descriptions are comprehensive yet occasionally lack specific technical details. The unresolved question of why some varieties endure while others vanish remains a point of intrigue.
Balke’s deep passion for the region is evident not only in his detailed account of the wines but also through his explorations of local gastronomy, featuring prominent chefs and their dishes, since excellent wine is typically accompanied by fine food reflecting the richness of local ingredients. The boxes outlining interesting sites and historical landmarks, a product of extensive research, are informative for travelers. Maps and timelines aid in demystifying the complex details, though notably, the first map only appears on page 61; an early comprehensive map would have been beneficial. The book covers detailed descriptions of each region’s grape varieties, wine styles, and the influences of local soils, landscapes, and climates. Noteworthy are the distinct microclimates, particularly the collision of alpine and Mediterranean climates leading to significant winds like the bora in the Vipava Valley and the gentler maestrale from the Adriatic.
While this book is notable for its deep research and engaging side stories — including Trieste as the coffee capital and the origins of Prosecco from the village of the same name, documented as early as 1593, as well as the enduring Lipica stud founded in 1580 — it does have its flaws. A proficient native English-speaking editor would have improved numerous spelling and grammatical errors and reduced redundancy that sometimes hampers the narrative flow. Despite detailed coverage of chefs, it’s surprising that winemakers are scarcely mentioned by name, missing the chance to spotlight influential figures who have revitalized viticulture in these countries over recent decades. The decision to avoid reviewing specific wines is prudent given the rapid changes within the sector, though a snapshot of noteworthy wineries and their commercial hospitality could enhance its utility as a wine guide. Despite these shortcomings, Balke’s intent, as stated in his introduction, is to “show the beauty of the north Adriatic through its wines and territory and to offer a clear view on one of the most versatile and fascinating wine regions of the world.” Despite its drawbacks, this book serves as an important resource that highlights a vibrant and compelling segment of the wine world that merits more acknowledgment.
Balke offers an admirable depth of research, especially into the history, landscape, and cultural background of the region. His book also gives thoughtful insights into how political borders interrupt identity. I found much of this work fascinating and an inspiration to explore further, heightening the passion I share with Balke for telling the intricate stories of this sometimes-underrated wine region.
North Adriatic: Friuli Venezia Giulia – West Slovenia – Istria – Kvarner
by Paul Balke
Published by Paul Balke Editions, available via paulbalke.com; 256 pages; €50