A sublime set of wines from the Burgundy producer’s expanded portfolio.
Michael Schuster relishes a range of “absolutely lovely” wines from Comte Liger-Belair in an excellent vintage, the first to include four cuvées new to the domaine.
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair calls his 2022 wines “a thrilling vintage,” and he has every right to be very pleased with them. His pithy summary of the season was, “A very benign season that presented little in the way of challenge.” After a mild, sunny, early spring with little frost damage, summer was very hot and dry, breaking (yet again) numerous records, but with few real extremes. There was welcome rain toward the end of June and as occasional relief toward the end of August. The grapes at the start of harvest were in excellent health, and the picking started at the domaine on August 30: eighty people picking for a week, with all the family there.
In contrast to the barren and ice-bitten cellars of 2021, the harvests of 2022 were bountiful, filling the cellar to the brim. This was not only due to the fruitful yield but also the addition of Lamarche properties, a major highlight for the domaine in 2022.
The vines, previously owned by Nathalie Pacareau from the Lamarche family, were incorporated into the fold when Nathalie decided at the end of 2021 to join forces with Louis-Michel. She leased her vineyards to the Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair under a metayage (sharecropping) arrangement set to last until 2050, thereby enhancing the estate by nearly 2.8ha (7 acres) of prime land.
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Newly incorporated into the domaine are
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru La Croix Rameau: 0.21ha (0.5 acre)
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Malconsorts: 0.5ha (1.2 acres)
Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas: 0.42ha (1 acre)
Grands-Echézeaux: 0.3ha (0.74 acre).
There are also the following additions to existing holdings:
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots: +0.36ha (0.9 acre)
Clos Vougeot: +0.59ha (1.5 acres)
Echézeaux: +0.24ha (0.6 acre)
Vosne-Romanée various: +0.15ha (0.37 acre).
That sums up to a net gain of 2.78ha (6.87 acres) from Nathalie Pacareau, plus approximately an extra hectare (2.47 acres) of various Bourgogne regional-level vineyards. This increases the total vineyard area to 14.5ha (36 acres) presently, up from 10.5ha (26 acres) prior to the Lamarche acquisitions, marking an increase of nearly 40%. Speaking to an audience in London in April, Louis-Michel highlighted that acquiring these exceptional vineyards was remarkable, however, they come with an initial challenge. He noted that it generally takes about five years to fully clear the soil of herbicides, to adjust the vineyard management to the organic and biodynamic standards of their current vineyards, and to encourage deeper root growth, all in pursuit of reaching the quality potential of their already converted vineyards.
Where the domaine already possessed vines in specific vineyards, the yield from the new Natalie Pacareau vines was blended in 2022. The impact this has had on their utmost quality potential remains uncertain. A notable instance was observed with the Grands-Echézeaux, where this initial Comte Liger-Belair vintage did not match up to the quality of the “lesser” Echézeaux. Louis-Michel expressed, regarding the Grands-Echézeaux, “It will require time to truly grasp, understand, and appreciate the vineyard’s genuine essence.” This sentiment could likely apply to all the newly incorporated vineyards.
A brief reminder of the domaine’s viticulture and vinification: The 14.5ha of vines (10.5ha before the Lamarche additions) are managed meticulously on organic and biodynamic principles, and yields are very low. The majority of the grapes are destemmed (which seems to contribute a lovely floral character to so many of the bouquets), except for a small proportion of clay-based premier and grand cru fruit—20% maximum. Yeasts are indigenous, handling is very gentle, extraction judicious, and all the wines age in 100% new wood for 11–18 months (the sole exception being the white Nuits-St-Georges, with only 30% new), ideally without racking or sulfuring, followed by three months in tank prior to bottling without fining or filtration. The resulting Burgundies are wines of outstanding quality, purity, and transparent beauty—benchmark examples across the hierarchy.
The 2022 reds are very different in style from the generosity and proportions of, for example, 2020 or 2018. (I didn’t taste the 2019s.) This is a supple, stylish, medium-bodied vintage; ripe-fruited, easy, not particularly tannic, but not lacking structure either. Think, perhaps, of the best of 1985, 2000, and 2002 for comparisons, and you will have a good idea. And the Comte Liger-Belair wines are, across the board, absolutely lovely. Not “grand” in terms of scale, concentration, or structure (not, for example, the dark colors, black-fruit ripeness, profound flavors, the often sumptuous density alongside fine structures of 2020 or 2018), but very, very good, with great beauty, all the exceptional class they usually have for their “appellation” levels, and given their harmonious balance, good medium- to long-term prospects alongside their immense immediate charm. They will be hugely rewarding for those lucky enough to have a few bottles.
UK agent Justerini & Brooks at Pavyllon, The Four Seasons Hotel, London; April 18, 2024
2022 Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc Monopole (bottled)
Explore the exquisite tastes of Chardonnay that bursts with the aroma of white peaches. This wine’s medium to full body, coupled with a supple yet fresh texture, creates a beautifully balanced experience. Its ripe, peachy flavor, accented with a hint of raciness, originates from the prestigious white Burgundy region, offering a succulent, long-lasting, and graceful taste with clear premier cru flavor length. While not the most grand, it holds a fine and delicious taste with impressive persistence, ready to be enjoyed now through 2030. | 92+
2022 Nuits-St-Georges Aux Lavières (bottled)
This wine introduces a lightly fruity aroma with hints of limestone and ripe red cherries. It possesses a medium-full body, presenting a fresh and finely tannic taste with a slightly firmer texture typical of its origin. The balance it maintains is lovely, giving off a sweet, fresh, and slightly muscular feel across the palate with a nice length on the finish. Displaying a complete and classy feel in a leaner style, this wine promises a fine lesser premier cru impression. Better left for a few years to enhance in texture, it could range from 2029 to 2042+. | 91
2022 Vosne-Romanée La Colombière (bottled)
Rich, vibrant aromas of red fruit and clay define this wine—exuding an essence of opulence. It presents a medium-full body, fresh taste, and delicate dryness from tannins. The flavors are sweet yet mature, carrying a long, pure, and brightly fruity finish. This wine, slightly richer in core-fruit than the Clos du Château, mirrors its clay-rich terroir. It is an outstanding Villages wine that one can enjoy quite early. Drink from 2027 to 2037 or beyond. | 91
2022 Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château Monopole (bottled)
This wine leads with a distinct, slightly reductive aroma balanced with spice and red fruit that expands to reveal subtle mineral notes when allowed to breathe. The body is medium-full, with supple freshness and very fine-grained tannins. It offers a restrained and elegant profile, long-lasting and delicately perfumed taste, concluding with a subtle, prolonged finish that suggests gentle core fruit amidst its overarching perfume. It’s delightfully fresh, emphasizing more on elegance and less on fruit intensity, reflective of its limestone-driven terroir. Preferences might shift with each tasting due to its subtle stylistic nuances. Ready to drink early with a potential for aging gracefully. Expected drinking window is from 2027 to 2037 or more. | 91+
2022 Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Cras (bottled)
A rich and enveloping aroma of ripe cherry with a hint of earthy minerals fills the glass, showing remarkable persistence, a characteristic of this vintage. This medium-full bodied wine is crafted with very fine tannins; it presents a long, juicy, and vibrant flavor of sweet red cherries, elegantly framed by a succulent warmth and a delicate, lingering fragrance on both palate and finish. The Aux Cras is delightful and approachable early on, yet it promises to age gracefully for decades. Drink from 2029 to 2042 or beyond. | 92
2022 Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes Monopole (bottled)
This wine displays a slightly darker hue compared to the Aux Cras, presenting an immediately captivating, rich and sweet fruity aroma that fills the glass, underscored by a hint of mineral clay. It’s a fairly robust wine with noticeable structure, marked by deep, sweet vitality and a fine firmness from its tannins. The presence of clay lends a dense, long, and close-grained quality across the palate, creating a racy and tenacious character that perfectly encapsulates the essence of Nuits-St-Georges with premier cru finesse. This graceful wine, exuding both rich fruit and aromatic depth, will benefit from some aging. Best from 2032 to 2047 or later. | 93
2022 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots (bottled)
A delicate blend of mineral and limestone aromas paired with subtle, mature notes of red and black cherries dominates the aroma, continuously filling the glass. This wine is medium to full-bodied, fresh, finely structured with tannins, and displays an already harmonious balance characteristic of the 2022 vintages. It offers a freshly sweet, succulent and gently fleshy taste experience, abundant in fruit and energetically long-lasting, culminating in a very extended finish. This premier cru embodies elegance, ease, Vosne charm, and flesh, promising to mature quickly into a captivating experience. 2028–47+. | 92+
2022 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru La Croix Rameau (vat sample)
This wine features a uniquely striking nose, sweet, high-toned, and floral with lasting presence; it is a superbly balanced, supple yet fresh, medium-full bodied wine. Defined by incredibly delicate tannins, it presents a juicy, vital, and radiant profile. This graceful, subtly spicy wine communicates an unassuming yet persistently energetic demeanor and concludes with a sweet, red-cherry ripeness. Not ostentatious, yet consistently engaging, ending with a beautifully persistent cherry-fruit fragrance. An exquisitely complete premier cru that stands as a stunning addition to any collection. 2032–50+. | 93–93+
2022 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts (vat sample)
A relatively dark shade marks this year, echoed in the dense aroma that presents a somewhat subdued initial impression, but blossoms to reveal distinct black cherry nuances. This selection stands out for its rich fruit presence, highlighted by a zesty citrus edge. The palate is rich and full, supported by vibrant acidity and a smooth yet robust tannin structure. The deeply engaging fruit flavors are elevated by a racy, sophisticated minerality, crafting a luxurious and expansive premier cru of nearly opulent character, endowed with an elegantly aromatic, persistent finish. An impressive debut for Comte Liger-Belair, this wine, while approachable early due to its harmony, would benefit from 10-12 years of aging to allow its structure to soften and its bouquet to develop fully. Anticipated maturity: 2034–54+. | 94–95
2022 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts (vat sample)
Featuring a fragrant nose that beautifully marries floral notes with a hint of limestone, this medium to full-bodied wine impresses with its clarity and light, fine-grained tannins. Its elegance and restraint are characteristic of Vosne, with a pleasantly sweet flavor profile and moderate complexity. Though lighter in body for a premier cru, its length and vitality stand out. Enjoyable in about five years, this wine will continue to please through 2027–37+. | 91+–92
2022 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Reignots (bottled)
The aroma is quite enchanting, bursting with delicate, floral scents such as rose petals and peony, accompanied by the sweetness of ripe red cherries. Tasting reveals a rich, full body that is both vibrant and well-balanced, presenting a beautifully constructed and harmonious profile. The flavors are both profound and refreshing, supported by fine, restrained tannins. This wine perfectly blends abundant character with the refined nature typical of Vosne, achieving a grandeur that transcends its classification. It radiates a quiet yet powerful energy when savored, leaving a lasting impression with its fragrant persistence. Truly a spectacular display. Magical. 2034–52+. | 95+
2022 Echézeaux Grand Cru (bottled)
This wine introduces itself with a reserved nose that slowly opens up to reveal sweeping, enduring, sweet floral notes paired with fine fruitiness, displaying an exceptional ‘presence’ in the glass that surpasses even the finest premier crus. The palate experiences a similar revelation, not through overt concentration, but through an intrinsic dynamism; it is ample, vivacious, and perfectly structured by elegantly poised tannins. The flavor is deeply anchored in ripe, spicy black cherry, presenting a perfect amalgam of weight, fleshiness, and freshness. Emblematic of the 2022 vintage, it is complete and harmonious. The extensive, lingering taste coats the mouth, consistently vibrant without any loss of intensity, completed by a resonant aftertaste of fruit and fragrance. Perhaps a twelve-year wait will see the melding of these superior elements? 2035–62+. | 96
2022 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru (vat sample)
Dense, firm-fruited, persistent, finely earthy, suggestive of its clay cradle—packed but closed. Rich, concentrated wine, vigorous in acidity, firmly tannic, a classic, muscular Clos de Vougeot constitution; deep, racy, and prolonged, a dense yet elegantly proportioned expression of its origin, beautifully sustained and with great length. Its relatively firm structure indicates a fairly long wait for the utmost reward. 2037–57+. | 94–95
2022 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru (vat sample)
As a grander wine in the hierarchy, from the same commune, this initial formulation of Grands-Echézeaux by Comte Liger-Belair invites comparisons with the domaine’s Echézeaux. Deeper in color than the Echézeaux, it boasts a robust fruit presence on the nose, yet lacks the subtlety and diversity seen in its counterpart—although denser, it appears less complex. Full, vigorous, and finely tannic, this wine currently displays a more muscular and expansive constitution than Echézeaux, showing a broader scale. Rich and laden with fruit, the Grands-Echézeaux showcases substantial presence and impressive length. No doubt it’s a fine grand cru, yet in this first iteration by CLB, it doesn’t quite reach the class, detail, perfume, and finesse of Echézeaux, being slightly more subdued. However, providing the vine, soil, and roots time to be fully appreciated—a closer look at this score is essential in the meticulously attentive biodynamic approach of Louis-Michel—promises further development. And could it be soon poised to reach its peak? 2037–60+. | 93+–95
2022 La Romanée Grand Cru Monopole (barrel sample)
Dark in hue and initially reserved in aroma, this wine exudes a powerful yet discreet fragrance, hinting at hidden depths of excellence. Its balance is impeccable, with a subtle concentration reminiscent of its famed southern neighbor, La Romanée-Conti, renowned for its elegance. The wine boasts finely woven tannins and a refreshing acidity that enhances its clarity, while its sweetness and slight spiciness add complexity to its almost creamy texture. The fruit is both abundant and gracefully presented, offering a seamless experience that is easy on the palate yet profoundly impressive. This wine resonates gently, displaying a delicate but compelling character that lingers, offering an ongoing invitation to explore its layers. While not quite reaching the majestic heights of the 2020 vintage, this is nonetheless a spectacular La Romanée. The connection to La Romanée-Conti comes through in its refined approach and enduring impact, both during the tasting and in the memorable aftertaste. A truly remarkable and humble wine that one might start enjoying at 15 years from vintage, though it promises to delight for half a century or more, from 2037 to beyond 2080. | 98–100