Rounding up the most notable Vintage Ports from an exceptionally hot, dry year.
A difficult growing season kept most producers from declaring a full 2022 Vintage Port, but there were many worthwhile releases, including a number of Single Quinta Vintage Ports and an intriguing new wine from Taylor’s Pinhão Valley properties.
The 2022 growing season in the Douro was never going to lead to one of the great years for Vintage Port. Indeed, the details, as laid out in a statement from Symington Family Estates, make for brutal reading. “The 2022 growth cycle was one of the most challenging in the Douro,” the shipper said, “with the three months before the harvest being among the hottest and driest ever recorded. Pinhão in the heart of the Douro saw a 70% reduction in rainfall from November 2021 to August 2022, compared with the 30-year average. Portugal recorded the hottest July since 1931, with Pinhão registering the country’s highest ever temperature at 47°C [116°F].”
No universal declaration of 2022 Vintage Port was made. However, as is common in the Douro these days, a variety of excellent Single Quinta Vintage Ports were produced. Additionally, Taylor’s introduced a new wine, influenced by what Adrian Bridge, Managing Director of the Fladgate Partnership, describes as “parcel selections” from four of Taylor’s estates in the Pinhão Valley.
The innovative wine, named Taylor’s Sentinels 2022 Vintage Port, derives its name from the granite pillars (“marcos de feito”) that delineate the demarcation line “that separates the highest quality Port areas,” according to Taylor’s. It includes wines from the top-performing plots at Terra Feita, Junco, Casa Nova, and Eira Velha—all recognized with “feitoria” status during the Douro Valley’s initial 1756 demarcation. The plan is to produce this wine only in years when a full Vintage wine is not made, similar to the company’s Single Quinta Vintage Ports.
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In 2022, Sentinels will be presented alongside Quinta de Vargellas Single Quinta Vintage Port 2022 and Fonseca Guimaraens Single Quinta Vintage Port 2022 as part of the Fladgate portfolio. “2022 will be noted as an exceptionally dry year accompanied by multiple heatwaves,” David Guimaraens, Head Winemaker at The Fladgate Partnership, commented. “However, the impact of the drought was mitigated by a wet March and early September rains, creating ideal conditions for harvesting. It will also be remembered as the year we reintroduced our foot treading, which had been halted for two vintages due to COVID.”
“This year’s harvest at Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas was exceptionally healthy, leading to the production of some exquisite Ports at the Fonseca estates. The result was an exceptional Guimaraens Vintage.”
Quinta do Noval’s approach to declare Vintages whenever feasible, even in minimal quantities, frequently places it at odds with other producers. In 2022, Christian Seely, Managing Director of Quinta do Noval, announced the release of “three outstanding Vintage Ports”: Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 2022, Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port 2022, and Quinta do Passadouro Vintage Port 2022.
Seely described the climate conditions of 2022 as a mix of extreme heat and dryness. Yet, he noted that such challenging conditions were not without precedent, citing similar weather patterns in renowned vintages of 2017 and 1945. Despite the harsh environment, the vineyards showed extraordinary resilience. The Douro varieties flourished, maintaining incredible health and surprisingly lush foliage without significant signs of water stress.
The selection process for Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 2022 was rigorous, with only 2,600 cases produced, which amounts to merely 6.6% of the total Port production from Noval’s extensive 155ha (383 acres) vineyard.
Similar severity reigned at Symington Family Estates, notably in the production of the fifth vintage of the family’s rare, tiny-production Capela do Vesúvio, which is made from three small plots at Quinta do Vesúvio.
“At Quinta do Vesúvio there were three micro-terroirs within the estate that sung beautifully in 2022,” says Symington Head Winemaker, Charles Symington. “These were the three plots of vineyard that contribute to the limited-edition Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port. We only make this wine when these vineyards produce the power, structure and refinement required to create a standalone Vintage Port that expresses the unique characteristics of these vines.”
The family is also releasing “two very exciting Vintage Ports from Quinta do Vesúvio and Dow’s Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira,” according to Symington, and has put aside small quantities of Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos 2022 Vintage Port, Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim 2022 Vintage Port, Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha 2022 Vintage Port, and Cockburn’s Quinta dos Canais 2022 Vintage Port.
Sogrape has also issued a trio of 2022 Vintage Ports, announcing the release of two Single Quinta Vintage Ports and one Vintage Port blend.
“Porto Ferreira Quinta do Porto Vintage 2022 and Sandeman Quinta do Seixo Vintage 2022 reflect the typical terroir where they come from,” stated Luís de Sottomayor, the Head of Winemaking for Douro and Port wines at Sogrape. “The former boasts a robust structure, deep flavors, and intense aromas, while the latter is noted for its elegance, harmony, and complexity. Offley Vintage 2022 also showcases the distinct attributes of the weather conditions of the year, marked by exceptional volume and pronounced structure.”
Carlos Alves, Master Blender & Port Wine Winemaker at Sogevinus Fine Wines, described 2022 as a year when “the red wines featured exceptionally clean aromas and notably bright and rich colors at harvest.” “These properties enhanced after two years of aging, prompting us to declare a vintage for all four Quintas, each showcasing unique distinctions and a strong connection to their original location,” he added.
The collection, which will be available for purchase starting September 2, 2024, includes: Kopke Quinta de São Luiz 2022, Burmester Quinta do Arnozelo 2022, Calem 2022, and Barros 2022.