Website: https://www.giantstepswine.com.au/
Giant Steps, a winery located in Yarra Valley, has recently garnered attention by winning the Halliday Guide Winery of the Year title for 2025. Interestingly, their 2023 Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir also clinched the Pinot trophy, replicating the success of its predecessor. This marks a notable accomplishment for the winery.
My journey to Australia involved a comprehensive two-day exploration of Giant Steps’ single vineyard wines. This visit coincided with the introduction of their 2023 vintage, which notably includes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the newly acquired Bastard Hill vineyard. Such extensive visits are rare and provide a deeper insight into a winery’s operations, especially one that has seen significant changes after being acquired by Jackson Family Wines in 2020. Giant Steps focuses on producing high-quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced exclusively from select Yarra Valley vineyards.
In 2021, Melanie Chester was named the new head of winemaking and viticulture, starting in November of that year. Her inaugural vintage in 2022 proved challenging due to adverse weather conditions influenced by La Niña, which resulted in a significant reduction in crop yields. Despite these challenges, the lower yields led to greater concentration in the grapes. Melanie notes that although the conditions were difficult, cooler vintages like these often produce superior wine quality, despite the tough agricultural conditions experienced during those years.
Melanie initiated her journey in winemaking at Treasury, followed by roles at Great Western and Seppelt, later moving on to a lengthy tenure at Sutton Grange located in Victoria.
The team has recently sold their Healsville winery and are now relocating their renowned gravity flow system to a new facility. Melanie highlights, “Gravity plays a significant role in the quality of our wines.” Despite the changes, Steve Flamsteed, former chief winemaker, remains engaged in their projects alongside Michael Latham, who took on the role of senior winemaker in 2020. Known informally as Flammo and Latho, their names are fondly abbreviated, a common practice in Australia.
Founded in the late 1990s by Phil Sexton, Giant Steps winery emerged under his entrepreneurial spirit. Sexton, who had previously pioneered and sold two breweries, Matilda Bay and Little Creatures, as well as Devil’s Lair winery in Western Australia, ventured to Yarra Valley. In 1997, he planted a vineyard, leading to the first vintage of Giant Steps in 2001. Phil’s passion for Pinot Noir drove him to purchase this particular land in 1996 during his tenure at Devil’s Lair. By 2003, he appointed Steve Flamsteed as winemaker and established a winery with a gravity flow operation in Healesville, a pivotal attribute for crafting Giant Steps Pinot Noir.
Discussing Chardonnay production, Melanie states, “We are not super-reductive; our focus is primarily on the fruit rather than reduction.”
Michael Latham, the chief winemaker, explains their method for producing Chardonnay. Initially, the grapes are chilled overnight. The following day, they are pressed in full clusters direct to tanks, then transferred to barrels with unfiltered solids. A specific barrel marked for its high solid content is kept separate for potential use if its quality proves to be exceptional. The focus is primarily on efficient monitoring. “We manage temperatures by utilizing both a cold and warm room,” he states. Fermentation is carried out using naturally occurring yeasts, and the decision to undergo malolactic fermentation is determined by the characteristics of the vintage rather than by artificial inoculation. Only French oak barrels are used, with a small fraction (10-15%) being new.
Discussing the Pinot Noir production, Latham’s approach is notably distinct. “Upon the arrival of the grapes at the winery, we assess them directly – tasting and examining the stems – to decide if they meet our profile for whole bunch fermentation, looking specifically for almond-like and nutty characteristics in the stem,” he explains. Based on this assessment, the grapes are either entirely used as whole bunches or completely destemmed. For the latter, the grapes are chilled, undergo a four-day pre-fermentation cold soak, and left skin-contacted for about two weeks. “Each batch is processed as a single clone, allowing for a diverse range of flavors at the blending stage. Utilizing gravity flow during processing is crucial,” he notes.
Ash Wood, viticulturist for Giant Steps, showcased the distinct characteristics of each vineyard during a tour starting at Sexton Vineyard, located in the Warramate Ranges adjacent to Gruyere. The vineyard, established in 1998 and 1999 by Phil Sexton, was originally a horse farm. Situated near the Yarra Yering vineyards, Sexton was attracted to this location for its potential in Pinot Noir cultivation, having experimented with the varietal in his Devil’s Lair vineyard in Western Australia. In 1996, informed by Bailey Carrodus of Yarra Yering about the impending sale, Sexton visited the property, and it was love at first sight.
He established the Sexton vineyard with a primary focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, incorporating a variety of clonal types. Initially, the wines were marketed highlighting their clonal origins, but with Steve Flamsteed’s influence, they shifted to emphasizing the vineyard’s identity over the type of clones used. This decision was based on a strategy to better connect with consumers by focusing on the vineyard’s characteristics. Covering 30 hectares, the vineyard devotes 13 hectares to Chardonnay, which Melanie praises as one of their standout sites for this varietal. They opted for NTAV clones 95, 96, 76, 277, and 88, along with the Gingin clone from Western Australia, brought by Phil. Gingin is comparable to the Mendoza clone, noted for its small berries, and thrives well in this vineyard’s climate, unlike in cooler regions like Yarra.
The vineyard also grows Pinot Noir varieties such as Pommard 5, MV6, 777, and Abel. Originally, 6 hectares were dedicated to Merlot, but due to poor results, these were replanted with additional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The vineyard includes plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, intended for their Harry’s Monster wine, and some Malbec.
The soil composition at Sexton consists primarily of fractured mudstones atop a thick clay base, with minimal topsoil, particularly at higher elevations.
Efforts to eliminate herbicide usage are underway under Ash’s stewardship, who has been integrating undervine cover crops. He prepared the soil by cultivating beneath the vines before planting cover crops like subterranean and aerial clovers, which form a moisture-competitive mat. For the midrow areas, a diverse mixture including medics, clovers, vetch, rye, and fescue is used to enhance soil stability. The shift away from herbicides is part of a broader objective to rejuvenate the soil, which had become compacted and crusted from past chemical usage. Additionally, Ash has incorporated buckwheat to aid in phosphorus availability and used mycorrhizal dust with seeded crops. Compost materials like grape marc, horse and chicken waste, and straw are used, supplemented by commercial mushroom compost, to enrich the soil.
The mornings can be cool and hazy, yet the afternoons turn quite warm. It’s an ideal location for cultivating Chardonnay.
The yield for Chardonnay can go up to 9 tonnes per hectare, although Ash prefers it to be around 7 or 8 tonnes. The planting density typically is 2395 vines per hectare with a spacing of 2.4 x 1.8 meters. New plantings are slightly denser, at 3125 vines per hectare with a spacing of 2.4 x 1.2 meters. This density is preferred because cane pruning Chardonnay to 8-10 buds tends to promote apical dominance, hence shorter canes are more favorable. For Pinot Noir, however, 6-7 tons per hectare is considered optimal.
Ash mentions that downy mildew poses a significant threat in this region. He remarks, “If I didn’t use systemic fungicides, I wouldn’t have a crop.”
The journey continued to Tarraford Vineyard, a site with a milder climate and softer landscape. Spread across 8.5 hectares, it has vine facing north, south, and east, presenting varied aspects on its gentle slopes. First planted in 1988, the vineyard grows mainly Chardonnay (predominantly using the Penfolds P58 clone along with clones 95, 548, and I10V1), a significant amount of Syrah (RD67), and some Pinot Noir (clones MV6, 667, 828). The soil here mainly consists of duplex clay loam, with patches of alluvial deposits. The vineyard struggles with phylloxera, which has resulted in the death of some vines, leading to the replanting of affected blocks.
Tarraford, founded and owned by Chris and Anna Long, is operated under lease by Giant Steps. Another vineyard, Applejack, located in Gladysdale, is notably acclaimed for its Pinot Noir and managed by the same group. Renowned viticulturist Ray Guerin planted Applejack following his experience with another vineyard, Bastard Hill, which he established ten years earlier. Unlike Bastard Hill, which Ray describes as a more challenging location requiring additional efforts in wine making and sales to be profitable, Applejack benefits from a slightly lower elevation, ranging from 180 to 260 meters. This compared to Bastard Hill’s 370 meters.
Applejack was co-planted by Ray and a friend after identifying the potential of a 550-acre property. The site offered advantageous protection against harsh souwesterly winds and featured gray clay soil, initially deficient but suitable for viticulture akin to the thriving local apple and pear growth. Initially, Applejack featured a variety of grapes including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, but was later predominantly grafted to Pinot Noir. The vineyard hosts several clones such as 114, 115, MV6, D, Pommard 5, and Abel. It’s distinguished by its dense planting approach, with spacing at 1 x 2.2 meters, and the soil is described as caramel-colored weathered clay.
‘This is one of the benchmark Pinot sites in Victoria,’ states Ash.
My initial visit to the Bastard Hill vineyard was in March 2006. At the time, I was in the Yarra, hosted by Tony Jordan, who introduced me to what he regarded as one of the region’s most captivating sites. Characterized by its red soil and inclined terrain, Bastard Hill stood out from the typical Yarra landscape. Despite its incorporation within the extensive corporate framework of Hardy’s, the vineyard’s potential was recognized by many.
In August 2024, a significant gathering marked the debut of Bastard Hill’s first wines under the Giant Steps brand, following its acquisition by Giant Steps in 2022.
Located high in the Yarra near Gladysdale, Bastard Hill is distinguished by its surrounding temperate rainforest and tree ferns, presenting a stark contrast to other areas in the Yarra. Ray Guerin planted the vineyard in 1987 and later settled here with his family. Initially backed by a small group of investors, the project quickly expanded. Originally intended for sparkling wine production, the vine soon showed promise for still wine as well. Before long, Hardys acquired all the stake in the vineyard. Although the grapes were initially designated for Ed Carr’s Arras sparkling wine, other members of the company like Steve Pannell also expressed interest in the fruit.
A short film that shows Ray and Melanie introducing the vineyard:
It’s planted exclusively to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Chardonnay is mainly I10V1 clone, while Pinot is MV6 and D5V12, a sparkling clone. Ray says that the cost of farming here is A$10 000 more per hectare than the valley floor. They employ two people per 13 hectares, where the norm in the valley is one.
Nick Ryan, introducing the launch event, said ‘some of us are old enough to remember the early wines from this site.’ He says that the wines, and the stories behind the wines, made an impact. ‘The myth around Bastard Hill started to emerge. This is a vineyard landscape unlike anywhere else in the country. It is a unique place to pursue great wines. We have seen glimpses of what it can do.’
Steve Flamsteed also saw the potential of the site, but noted that great vintages were few and far between.
Nick commented, ‘we are witnessing the dawn of an exciting era. Mark today’s date: it marks a pivotal moment in the history of Australian wine.’
The 13 hectare vineyard divides into two unique sections, harvested up to a week apart. From the central ridge, one side slopes down towards Wombat Creek to the north, while the other descends steeply towards Hoddles Creek in the south. The southern slope features a significantly steep area and includes a large section left unplanted where previous vines were removed by Hardys due to marginal plot conditions. Plans are in place for future replanting. ‘We find ourselves at the very crest of Yarra,’ Melanie points out. ‘Locally, the Yarra is considered semi-continental, particularly at the valley’s base,’ she continues. ‘But at this elevation, we experience cooler southern winds. On some summer days, it’s 4-5 degrees cooler than at the valley floor, influenced by the oceanic breezes.’
Giant Steps is focusing on revitalizing the vineyard to its optimal state. Part of the plan includes replanting, aiming for a new composition of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot for better adaptability during cooler vintages, as Chardonnay poses lesser risks.
The year 2023 has proven to be stellar for Giant Steps with their latest wine releases garnering widespread acclaim. This release also marked the first introduction of Bastard Hill wines, generating significant excitement.
‘I’m four vintages into the Yarra Valley,’ Ash Wood remarks, ‘and the 2023 vintage was particularly intriguing, characterized by a moderate climate. The springs from 2021 to 2023 were notably wet.
Then, in January, the rain ceased, leading to a pleasant stretch up to the vintage.’ The 2023 harvest was methodically conducted, with each block being picked as it matured, without haste. ‘It was a calm vintage, gentle on the fruit, and the vines experienced minimal stress,’ Wood explains. ‘The quality was excellent, with preserved baseline acidity.’ This season marked the latest ripening period for Giant Steps. ‘For Yarra’s Chardonnay, this year was unparalleled,’ notes consultant winemaker Steve Flamstead. ‘It was on the brink.’
Tarraford Vineyard Chardonnay 2023 Yarra Valley
This Chardonnay, primarily from P58 clone, showcases intense fruit flavors. It is exceptionally well-balanced, displaying a dynamic range with prominent citrus alongside hints of pear and white peach, enhanced by mild grapefruit-like acidity and subtle spicy, toasty notes. While rich, it concludes vivid and bright with great precision at the finish. Compelling in its complexity and generosity, it scores 96/100.
Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2023 Yarra Valley
This Chardonnay is vibrant, bright, and intense, with a dominant linear citrus profile complemented by slight lemony tartness beneath layers of pear and white peach. The acidity is remarkably precise, adding a slight structure. Currently very primary and intense, it holds great potential for future development and scores 95/100.
Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay 2023 Yarra Valley
Marked by its intensity, this wine features vibrant notes of lemon and pineapple, enhanced by a crisp acidic backbone. Flavors of pear, lime, and grapefruit blend seamlessly, touched by subtle hints of exotic apricot and pineapple. The wine possesses a natural depth, making it truly delightful. Rated 96/100.
Bastard Hill Chardonnay 2023 Yarra Valley
This Chardonnay offers a taut, focused, and refined experience. Clean and pure notes of lemon and lime are complemented by undertones of peach and pear. The fruit profile is crystal-like, underpinned by a mineral stoniness. Unshowy yet intense, it promises excellent aging potential and stands out as one of Australia’s top Chardonnays. Rated 97/100.
Bastard Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 Yarra Valley
An exceptionally refined and aromatic wine, showcasing floral scents with sweet cherries and strawberries. It’s both refined and elegant on the palate, offering a silky texture with well-defined structure. Subtle complexities of herbs and cured meats, along with a whisper of white pepper, enhance the profile, culminating in a gripping finish. A captivating wine that beautifully marries floral fruitiness with elegance and potential for further development. Rated 96/100.
Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 Yarra Valley
Characterized by precise and delicate execution, this wine exudes floral and bright notes. The palate enjoys a harmony of cherries, raspberries, and wild strawberries, intertwined with a subtle hint of tomato. The wine flows smoothly across the palate, displaying finesse and a light structural touch. Exceptionally pretty and vibrant. Rated 95/100.
Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 Yarra Valley
Lovely density here, with a hint of wilderness. Notes of iodine, spice, and a savory element reminiscent of cured meat, coupled with vibrant cherry and strawberry flavors. Excellently crafted with a delightful roughness, good structure, and a robust presence of fruit. 95/100
Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 Yarra Valley
Exhibits great concentration and intensity. Features bold red cherry and berry flavors with a hint of strawberry, all integrated with savory undertones. This wine is well-composed, offering a good balance of fruit and structure, with a satisfying fleshiness. 95/100
Coal River Valley Pinot Noir 2023 Tasmania
Powerful and densely packed with sweet raspberry and cherry notes, accented with pepper and spicy oak. The fruit is concentrated and well-defined, finishing with a firm grip. With some time, it promises to show beautifully. 94/100
Giant Steps Tarraford Chardonnay 2022 Yarra Valley, Australia
Located in the most northern and lowest part of the valley, this vineyard, despite its placement, isn’t the warmest. A small site planted with P58 clone and maintained by the Long family. The grapes are handpicked, cooled, and whole bunch pressed gently. The pristine juice is then barrelled (500 liters, 10% new) with full solids, handled oxidatively, and ferments naturally. The wine is taut and linear, showing subtle mealy characteristics with a mineral touch, finely spiced, and has layers of citrus and white peach. Delicate yet fresh with precise fine spices concluding the taste. 94/100
Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 Yarra Valley, Australia
This vineyard, established in 1997, spans 30 hectares, including 12 hectares specifically dedicated to Chardonnay cultivation. Influenced by Phil Sexton’s ties to Margaret River, there’s an intent to cultivate the Gingin clone, although Melanie suggests a significant presence of the similar Mendoza clone, alongside true Gin Gin. Bernard clones are also found here. The vineyard’s varied aspects contribute to the wine’s beautiful texture and firm intensity, with mineral elements and taut, lemony undertones complemented by subtle hints of ginger and pear. A light saltiness and slight structural hints enhance the overall detail and precision of this wine. 95/100
Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 Yarra Valley, Australia
Located in the sparser, upper regions of the Yarra Valley, this sloping vineyard features a sparkling wine clone of Chardonnay across its 13 hectares, including 2 hectares dedicated to Chardonnay. Efforts to manage the canopy structure aim to protect the fruit from too much sun, which is less preferred for Chardonnay. The aroma is restrained, offering nuances of hazelnut and almond, combined with apple skin, mealy textures, and delicate citric notes. On the palate, the wine is linear and focused, distinguished by nice fruit integration, refreshing qualities, and a subtle tension. 95/100
Giant Steps Primavera Pinot Noir 2022 Yarra Valley, Australia
This wine originates from an elevation of 300 m in the upper Yarra Valley, where Primavera’s unique red volcanic basalt soil, a rare formation in the region, predominates. At about 60 million years old, this fertile and well-draining soil type facilitates relatively easy growth for vines. The vineyard’s blocks cultivate varieties such as MV6, 115, and G8. The resulting wine is supple and elegant, characterized by a fine texture and flavors of red cherry and redcurrant. Additional notes of pomegranate and cranberry enhance the wine’s finesse and delicacy. 94/100
Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Yarra Valley, Australia
The diverse clones, including Abel, MV6, Pommard, 114, and 115, contribute to the distinctive purity of fruit in this wine, marked by raspberry and strawberry flavors mingled with pleasant spicy undertones. The texture is both rich and silky, supported by fine tannins. The overall structure is refined, featuring additional layers of beetroot and plum with subtle pepper notes, maintaining elegance while suggesting potential for ageing. 95/100
Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Yarra Valley, Australia
This exceptional wine originates from the vineyard’s prime section, utilizing G5V12, MV6, and Pommard clones. It emits a captivating bouquet of ginger, spice, iodine, and a medley of red fruits. On the palate, it presents a supple and finely textured experience, enriched with a blend of red jelly and a hint of salinity, further enhanced by notes of sage and lavender. Score: 94/100
Giant Steps Fatal Shore Pinot Noir 2022 Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia
Melanie notes the vast diversity within Tasmania. Located in the southern part, near Hobart, Coal River benefits from being in a rain shadow west of the coast, featuring a dry and cool environment. The vineyard gains from the unique orientation of tributary valleys that merge into a central one, with the finest plots facing east, away from colder grounds. Since 2016, grapes have been sourced from the esteemed Nocton vineyard. This wine is supple, fine, elegant, and pure, showcasing flavors of red cherry and wild strawberry. It is marked by its exquisite purity, balance, and elegance, with a concentration that brings both finesse and an exotic flair. Score: 97/100
Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2020
This Chardonnay displays a robust concentration of pear, peach, and pineapple, masterfully paired with fine spicy oak. The powerful citrus elements are underpinned by evident acidity. The wine’s boldness and intensity conclude with waxy notes and a hint of ginger on the finish. Score: 94/100
Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2021
Marking Steve Flamsteed’s final vintage as chief winemaker during the La Niña season, this wine experienced a warm extend to the growing season. It is fresh, supple, and vivid, exhibiting delightful pear and white peach flavors coupled with citrus freshness. Intensity shines through, featuring sour acidity, lovely texture, and a touch of creamy hazelnut. This vintage subtly softens the power observed in 2020. Score: 95/100
Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2022
Melanie’s inaugural vintage faced a challenging spring characterized by significant rainfall. The season was notably cold and wet, resulting in a yield that was half the usual size due to the reduced size and weight of the grape bunches. The wine expresses lovely finesse paired with substantial weight, featuring fine spicy undertones complemented by pure notes of pear and citrus. It displays power and intensity with a flavorful palate that includes bread, hazelnut, and robust citrus tones. It is both fresh and expressive, offering remarkable intensity and balance. 95/100
Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2023
This vintage encountered a cold and wet spring followed by the coldest summer on record for the region. It is fresh and vivid, marked by sharp acidity and crisp, crystalline citrus flavors, with a hint of pineapple. Melanie characterizes the wine’s structure as ceramic-like, a description that resonates with its fine, bold, and structured nature. It presents flavors that include ginger, lime, and grapefruit pith on the finish. 95/100
Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2011
This vintage, likewise cold, showcases flavors of toast, mandarin, honey, and bread. With time, it has developed delicately and deeply, offering stylish notes and a pronounced citrus line enhanced by good acidity and a hint of saltiness. This wine is exceptionally well-crafted. 94/100
Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020
The wine exudes impressive aromatics of sweet raspberry and cranberry, alongside distinctive notes of iron and rhubarb. The palate is textured beautifully, presenting sweet flavors of strawberry and cherry with an underlying richness. It also reveals savory spicy notes and a touch of tannic bite. The wine has a broad dynamic range, solid structure, and potential for further aging. It is delineated by real finesse and purity. 94/100
Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
Featuring 60% whole cluster fermentation, this Pinot Noir exudes a beautiful concentration balanced elegantly with vibrant flavors of red cherry, wild strawberry, and dried herbs. It pairs a delightful texture with a bright finish and a warm, silky feel on the mid-palate, set against a backdrop of robust tannins. Additionally, this wine carries intriguing layers of blood, spice, and a hint of tomato umami. It scores 96/100.
Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 (magnum)
This variant stands out with its complexity and preservation of primary flavors like raspberry and cherry, intertwined with sweet and silky nuances. It shows fantastic density and complexity, marked by a lusciously sweet core and layers of savory depth. There’s a captivating, brooding mystery to it, yet it remains pleasantly approachable, with significant promise indicated for its future. It rates 95/100.
Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023
Incorporating 40% whole cluster fermentation, this wine is taut and vivid, characterized by notes of ginger, spice, and herbal savoriness, alongside focused raspberry and cherry fruits. It is bright and purposeful in its complexity, featuring a subtle savory streak in the finish with tapering notes of berry and sour cherry. This fine wine scores 95/100.
Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018
Smooth and sweetly spiced, this wine delivers notes of warm cherry and plum, along with wild strawberry undertones. The finish is soft and sweet, showcasing a depth of sweet fruits, warmth, and refined spiciness. Highly expressive with gentle fruit softness, though it is noted to lack the precision and distinctive character seen in more recent vintages. It earns a score of 93/100.
Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010
This year was outstanding in the Yarra Valley, showing maturity with a delightful blend of sweet cherry and raspberry flavors complemented by a silky texture. The wine features layers of herbs, cherries, iodine, and blood, along with hints of spice, making it highly enjoyable at the moment. It displays a slight firmness at the end, concluding suddenly. 93/100