Here’s why. I’ve cherished wine for over half a century. Had I merely indulged in it within the confines of my home, it would have been merely a passionate pastime, a continual enchantment. Yet, my bond with wine transcends that—it’s profound, a union founded on mutual respect and comprehension. True, wine has intertwined with my career… but such a connection is attainable for you as well. Venture there. Observe. Stand amidst the terrain. As the vines endure there, throughout the seasons, every hour, every year.
Consider how the mere relationship between the sky and the earth below can be strikingly powerful. Take the Médoc in comparison to the Côte d’Or. The Médoc is expansively open—unobstructed views meet the eye. The land undulates gently, akin to soft ocean waves. Looking around, you view the massive estuary on one side; venturing toward a shellfish feast at Arcachon reveals the vast Atlantic on the other. It’s a domain of light—characterized by aquatic interactions and ceaselessly shifting breezes.
Contrastingly, in the Côte d’Or, you feel the continuous presence of a looming, overseeing mass of rock and earth that dominates a low, broad valley. The prominence of the hill is ever-present. Ventilating side valleys appear and disappear. The forests atop the hills ebb and flow—prompting you to wonder why vineyards commence higher in certain spots and lower in others. The clear delineation of top-slope, mid-slope, and bottom-slope (a reflection of topographical drama where distinctions among regional, village, premier cru, and grand cru territories are evident) quickly becomes apparent, including the disparity in wine quality. Typically, a village wine captures the essence of the valley’s base. Naturally!
Returning to Bordeaux, post visiting the Médoc, a trip to Pessac-Léognan shifts from a Dutch panorama of skies and waters to a setting reminiscent of Fontainebleau, often a glade within the forest. It’s cooler there. And suddenly, the reason Pessac-Léognan is renowned for both white and red wines, and why those reds might be a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, becomes clear. You understand.
Ditto in St-Emilion, where the serene Château Cheval Blanc cozily borders the rich plateau of neighboring Pomerol; a stark contrast to the bright, elevated essence of Château Canon, or the secluded Ausone situated on its rocky heights, overseeing the sandy, valley-bottom estates near the Dordogne. Experiencing these places first-hand, you grasp the depth, balance, and subtle flavors in a way that reading countless tasting notes could never offer.
Engaging with local vintners and hearing their stories illuminates the essence within the bottles. Venture to Alsace, and you may encounter the philosophical Philippe Blanck, the eloquent theorist Jean-Michel Deiss, the visionary Olivier Humbrecht MW, the observant Jean Boxler, the passionate Jean-Christophe Bott, or the discerning Pierre Gassmann, who offers endless samples in his incredible, stony, Xanadu-like tasting room. These personalities are unforgettable.
You also learn through the regional cuisine, where the presentation and preparation of food provide insights into local wines, crafted and conceived to complement each other. More subtle aspects like architectural style, local building materials, weather patterns, and even the dramatic natural environment (notably in regions like Languedoc and Rhône) enrich your wine tasting experiences in the future by bringing back vivid memories of your visits.
Indeed, tasting and enjoying wine is delightful. However, understanding the reasons behind a wine’s particular taste through personal interaction with its landscape offers a deeper, more solid enjoyment.
Even for ‘us pros’, purchasing wine involves a risk. Sometimes the result is fantastic; other times, not so much. One gamble that I’m particularly pleased with is the Roagna, Langhe Rosso 2015 that I purchased a few years back (initially costing £31.59 per bottle from Justerini & Brooks, now priced at £39.20). This wine is a mix of young-vine grapes from the Pajè vineyard in Barbaresco and Pira in Barolo, aged with classical finesse. Rich, smooth, and peaceful: the epitome of Nebbiolo pleasure.