Pulling together some of the finest writing on Pinot Noir published on worldoffinewine.com
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The World of Fine Wine has published dozens of articles on Pinot Noir over the past 20 years, a period during which Pinot Noir’s status as perhaps the world’s most revered red grape variety has only become more entrenched. To mark International Pinot Noir Day, which falls on 18 August each year, we have drawn together some of our favorite articles on Pinot Noir published on worldoffinewine.com. Research by Eleanor McNeill.
In 2023, Rod Philips looked at Philip the Bold’s 1391 ordinance that Gamay vines should not be planted in Burgundy, examining the political and economic reasons behind it, its legacy for modern wine appellations, and its role in crafting Burgundy’s reputation as the foremost Pinot Noir producer in the world.
“It was Pinot Noir that was used to make the wines—variously known as vin de Bourgogne, vin de Beaune, and vin de Dijon—that became so popular among the rich and powerful in the 1300s. They were prized not only for their quality but also because they were scarce: Pinot Noir yields at the time were far lower than the maximum yields permitted today, and in years of poor weather there might be no wine, or virtually none, at all.
As for Gamay, it was widely planted in the south of the Duchy of Burgundy, notably in the Mâconnais, as well as in nearby Beaujolais (which was not part of the duchy) and the area around Lyon. Gamay wines were quite well known in Beaune by the 1360s, and Gamay plantings seem to have moved north from that time, reaching the area around Dijon (Chenôve, Marsannay-la-Côte, and Couchey) in the early 1390s, about the time of Philip’s ordinance.
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But Pinot Noir was regarded as the superior variety by far, and we would expect the dukes of Burgundy to have supported its successes in bringing not only honor and fame but also revenue to their duchy.”
After a 40-year career specializing in Burgundy wine, Jasper Morris MW reflected in 2018 on the recent developments and the future of the region and its celebrated Pinot Noir wines.
“The 1980s marked the beginning of a revolution that led to the golden age of Burgundy. We’ll dive into the technicalities later, but it all started with the people. Before this era, the majority of Burgundy wines exported were from major merchants—I recall an early visit to a prominent figure in Beaune who stated firmly, ‘Monsieur, in Burgundy we are four: ourselves, Jadot, Drouhin, and Bouchard.’ There were also a few cooperatives providing affordable wines and a handful of top domaines, typically one or two per well-known village. The trade in Burgundy was becoming rigid, focused primarily on the region’s resplendent history and its traditional celebrations.”
Earlier this year, Neil Beckett wrote about a remarkable tasting event at the domaine, showcasing centuries of Pinot Noir, particularly from Clos des Lambrays, reinforcing its status as one of the top five grands crus in the Côte d’Or.
“Burgundy is synonymous with history. No other French wine region is as deeply enveloped in it. Yet, even in this duchy that was ahead of the kingdom of France during much of the later Middle Ages—a land shaped by figures such as Bernard of Clairvaux and Cîteaux, Philip the Bold and Philip the Good, Claus Sluter and Rogier van der Weyden, and institutions like the Hospices de Beaune and de Nuits—perhaps no domaine or vineyard has as long and significant a historical connection as Clos des Lambrays. This connection might have weakened at times, and at certain periods disappeared entirely into the ever-evolving Burgundian tapestry. However, these transformations only emphasize the permanence of its distinctive characteristics as conveyed through its wines: its unmistakable identity, its unwavering integrity, its impressive longevity, and its thrilling quality.”
After a less than stellar 2021 wine season, our expert on Burgundy affairs, Sarah Marsh MW, conveyed more positive updates from 2022. This period, characterized by a warm summer and an early harvest, yielded Pinot Noir with notable elegance and finesse.
“The 2022 reds manifest a synergy of warm-season fruit, scent, and tannins coupled with the freshness, moderate body, and alcohol levels reminiscent of a typical cooler year. The vintage primarily showcases red fruit with charming floral aromatics and mature tannins. Though the acidity levels are not high, the overall impression is vibrant and invigorating. This style prevails across the Côte d’Or, with the reds from Côte de Nuits standing out due to their intense fruit flavors balanced by delicacy and refined texture. Having sampled Burgundy vintages from barrels over the last two decades, the October-tasting wine from the Côte de Nuits this year has been particularly delightful.”
In WFW67 (March 2020), Anne Kebiehl MW delved into new findings regarding Pinot Noir clones in Burgundy and Champagne regions.
“Appearances can be misleading, particularly regarding Pinot Noir genetics. Unassuming bunches often yield superior fruit; the most unprepossessing, dense clusters are valued for their flavor complexity, favorable flesh-to-skin ratios, and structural tannins. However, their inconsistent and extremely low productivity is not universally appreciated. Only a select few cultivators opt for such vines, known as the Burgundian très fin, and only in terrains that benefit from these characteristics. Many, particularly outside of Burgundy, prefer the assured yield and consistency of a single-clone plantation, evident from the global success of certain clones. A preceding study (‘Cracking the Clonal Code,’ WFW 55, pp.112–19) traced the origin and evolution of these clones. Initially devised post the phylloxera crisis to stabilize yields, there was a shift towards focusing on attributes such as color, ripening capability, and disease resistance. Over time, attributes including taste, wine structure, sanitation, and growth of virus-free vines gained prominence. Presently, the implications of climate change are steering the selection criteria differently; traits like early ripening are no longer as beneficial, whereas increasing acid content traits which were once deemed undesirable, now present new potential. This paradigm shift in clonal selection began even before these changes became as manifestly critical as they are today.”
In 2008 at WFW19, Neil Beckett highlighted the grand introduction of Champagne Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay 1995. This special release focuses on a small, selected Pinot Noir vineyard, designed to complement their Chardonnay-focused Clos du Mesnil.
“Spanning just 0.685 hectares—a mere third of Clos du Mesnil’s size—Clos d’Ambonnay exemplifies what Rémi termed ‘individuality in the extreme.’ True to Krug’s tradition, it too is aged in seasoned oak casks, maintaining the family’s hallmark in both style and quality, a continuity that Rémi was eager to reaffirm.”
“Yet, while Clos d’Ambonnay is undeniably a member of the Krug family, its expression is uniquely distinct. While other variants may be perceived as more complex, mature, or sophisticated, Clos d’Ambonnay’s bold personality and intrinsic quality arguably makes it the standout. Such singular-vineyard wines are intended to showcase these unique characteristics.”
“Describing such an exceptional wine is a complex task, akin to explaining Goneril’s proclaimed love for Lear—it’s a challenge to encapsulate with words alone. Nevertheless, for a wine of 12 years, its remarkably pale gold hue and notably fine mousse for a Blanc de Noirs were striking. Enjoyed amidst the vines from which it was born, the wine’s aroma was complex and pure, typical of Krug’s paradoxical style. Moreover, it brought a powerful, earthy nobility into play, far distant from any simple Pinot profile. Delicate touches of anise, almond croissant, candied fruit, acacia honey, and white blossoms evolved into hints of dried apricot and licorice, creating an almost irresistible urge to indulge immediately.”
Pinot Noir has experienced significant advancements in South Africa, particularly in the cooler southern coastal areas of the country. Two years prior, Sarah Marsh MW highlighted the exceptional quality of the Pinot Noir from Hamilton Russell Vineyards, situated beyond the fishing town of Hermanus in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley.
“Hamilton Russell’s renowned Burgundian style of winemaking was evident when I visited the estate in the late 1990s, while researching New World Pinot Noirs that extended beyond mere varietal characteristics.
“Back in the ’90s, the challenge with New World Pinot Noir was its overt fruitiness, simplicity, and somewhat sweet profile. In contrast, Hamilton Russell’s offerings were more subdued and structured, vibrant and lively, indicating an initial exploration of terroir expression perhaps?”
In 2020, amidst global uncertainty, Andrew Jefford turned to wine for comfort, particularly Domainede Villaine Bouzeron 2016 Pinot Noir. His piece transcends a typical review, serving as a tribute to the comforting essence of wine.
“Wine, along with birdsong, is our chief consolation now. Turn on the radio and out tumbles tragedy: lives concluded too soon, and in perplexing solitude; businesses sent sprawling; the active rendered idle, lonely, poor, and anxious. We mark time, live on our reserves, while those whose business is health exhaust their own, working on the edge, risking all. Wine has never seemed more superfluous as an edifice, a vast palace of fussiness; yet its essence, as not just a physical but a psychological or spiritual restorative, has never been more useful. Much and sometimes all of the customary texture of life has been stripped away, so we treasure that which fortifies resolve—like a glass of wine at day’s end. Wine, for the time being, has gone elemental.”
In 2022, Terry Theise delved into the newest offerings from Müller-Catoir, recognized for its exceptional German Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder), providing an analysis of the groundbreaking reds from the esteemed Pfalz estate.
“This is the village-wine from Haardt, which is officially a suburb of Neustadt. You’ll have heard of its prominent sites Bürgergarten, Herrenletten and Herzog.”
“We observe a clear cherry hue but no lack of ripeness (13.5%) and I suspect Franzen did not chaptalize it. Given his general goal to micro-pixilate flavors, the precision of the PN fruit aromas will not surprise you. Similarly, the absence (or perceived absence) of opulence or playful elements will be expected.”
“Yet the palate will surprise you with its silken sensuality and with a fruit-sweetness that’s nearly adorable. An open texture suggests the use of barrels—I’d guess large ones (1,000 liters) and I’d also guess they are not well-used. The diligent clarity is almost caricaturized from the Jancis glass, from which a mintyness and smoke arise, feinting toward Blaufränkisch. (It’s said that mature Blaufränkisch starts to resemble Pinot Noir, so this isn’t as far fetched as it may seem.)
“The wine is sophisticated but not aloof; it’s both impressive and enticing, a kind of elemental PN, full of complexity. At the end there’s a salty, almost limestony grip guided by a jot of crushed stones and tannin and even dried flowers. I’m sitting here not quite able to believe, or even to understand, how good this is.”
Despite its reputation as a difficult grape to grow, Pinot Noir has proved remarkably versatile in Canada, with good quality examples emerging from contrasting conditions in each of the country’s regions, said Rod Phillips in 2023.
“Pinot Noir is one of the few grape varieties that is grown in all of Canada’s wine regions, with their vastly diverse climatic conditions. It is planted in British Columbia’s warm, dry southern Okanagan Valley and in the province’s cooler, wetter, coastal areas; in cool-climate Ontario, including a somewhat warmer island sub-appellation lying on the same latitude as northern California; in cold-climate Quebec, where vines must be buried in winter; and in the cool, maritime conditions of Nova Scotia on the Atlantic coast.”
“Pinot Noir is also gaining ground, literally, in emerging wine regions that were long considered too cold for quality vinifera viticulture but are now becoming viable, largely because of climate change. They include newly minted northern appellations in British Columbia; around Ottawa, the national capital, and in areas 125 miles (200km) north of Niagara Peninsula, in Ontario; and in all of Quebec.”