A unique Hungarian grape variety is experiencing a revival, albeit small yet delightful.
Sarah Marsh MW explores the efforts of growers and researchers who are revitalizing the Kéknyelű grape from the brink of disappearance in the Hungarian PDO of Badacsony on Lake Balaton, leading to the production of intriguing, age-worthy white wines.
Nestled above us on a petite terrace etched into the basalt terrain of Badacsony-hegy are the ancient bush vines of Kéknyelű. These represent the oldest vines of this scarcely found grape, which saw its numbers dwindle almost to none by the 1990s. At that time, only three patches survived: A 0.25ha (0.62 acres) tract on the extinct volcano of Badacsony-hegy—planted over 100 years ago on a south-facing slope that descends into the azure depths of Lake Balaton; an additional area spanning 0.1ha (0.25 acres) in proximity; and 0.6 ha on the western base of Gulács Hegy, amounting to a combined total of less than one hectare (2.47 acres) in the PDO of Badacsony on Lake Balaton’s north shore.
Throughout my excursion, Bàlint Földi, a winemaker and cultivator specializing in Kéknyelű, shared insights from his extensive research, including his university thesis. From his small tract of 0.1ha on Szent György-hegy, Földi is one of approximately 30 cultivators managing to rekindle interest in Kéknyelű over its present 45ha spread. This grape has nearly faced extinction, yet now it’s witnessing a modest revival.
Its survival is astonishing given its low yield of 0.5-1kg per vine and the challenges it presents in cultivation. Bàlint mentioned, “The earliest record from 1799 by botanist Pál Kitaibel noted it as the region’s second most cultivated variety.” He revealed how historically, until 1850, vineyards bore a mix of over 40 varieties including Kéknyelű which, though widely planted over 50ha, was primarily found in estates of the nobility and religious orders. With the advent of the 1850s, monoculture viticulture prevailed, elevating Kéknyelű’s qualitative standing until post-WWII, although it dwindled to barely 5ha by the 1960s and 1ha by 1990.
As Bàlint further recounted, the challenges of cultivating Kéknyelű were numerous: it was primarily planted in high-demand vineyards due to its particular needs for ample water, favorable sun exposure, warmth, and protection from early and late frosts. Its inherently female nature rendered it susceptible to millerandage while traditionally being goblet-trained on stakes, leading to even lower productivity. With its thick skins, the yield of juice upon pressing was always inadequate, making this varietal an unfeasible option for the more economically challenged growers.
As a monoecious plant, it requires the presence of a different variety for pollination, typically Budai Zöld and sometimes Rózsakő, which are cultivated and processed independently. Additionally, Kéknyelű was traditionally grown at a high planting density ranging from 10,000 to 20,000 vines per hectare on narrow terraces. These labor-intensive practices were largely abandoned during the Communist period when, in 1967, the fields were flattened to create wider terraces that could accommodate large machinery, changing both the landscape and the soil structure by displacing topsoil. Even the local Research Institute of Wine and Oenology was mandated to replace Kéknyelű with citrus trees.
The survival of the Kéknyelű variety was partly due to concessions that allowed farmers to retain small plots of up to 0.1 hectares. However, it nearly disappeared after a severe frost in 1986, leaving only a few small areas. The shift in regime during 1991-93 saw a resurgence of interest in viticulture. Huba Szeremley, recalling his pre-exile childhood spent near Lake Balaton, returned to invest in the Badacsony region. Acquiring over 100 hectares, including the small existing plot of Kéknyelű, he played a critical role in its revival.
Kéknyelű tastings often feature Szeremley’s 2006 vintage, a testament to the grape’s enduring appeal. This wine impressed me with its vitality during my latest sampling, and I recall how it intrigued me years earlier at the Gay Hussar restaurant in Soho.
2006 was a standout year for wine, only perhaps outshone by the 1997 vintage. The 2006 Szeremeley Kéknyelű, with its 7 g/l total acidity, is notably more acidic than other Kéknyelű wines I sampled, a quality often attributed to its potential for aging. From my tastings, a decade seems to be a reasonable period for cellaring.
Moving on, what is the character of Kéknyelű as a youthful wine? It’s subtly aromatic, displays decent acidity although not overly so, and has a medium body with moderate alcohol levels. While this might sound unremarkable on its own, the wine truly shines when paired with its native terroir. It has a remarkable ability to reflect the unique qualities of its soil and microclimate, resulting in a savory, well-structured wine endowed with a slatey-mineral freshness.
In terms of its growing environment, Kéknyelű thrives in the basaltic soil of extinct volcanoes, often referred to as “witness hills.” The volcanic soil here varies from the older andesite and rhyolite soils found in Tokaj. In regions where dark basalt soil is mixed with tiny stones, it is called corn basalt. The area also features some sandstone to the east and limestone to the west. The landscape is punctuated by 14 “hegy” or hills with vineyards positioned at elevations ranging from 100–300m (330–980ft), amongst them the notable Badacsony Hill and Saint George Hill. These hills showcase basalt formations known as organ pipes at their summits. Despite its picturesque appearance, the area’s recent history wears the marks of communist-era basalt mining.
This basalt terrain holds onto the daytime warmth well into the night, ensuring the temperature variation between day and night is minimal—ranging from 10°C (18°F) to 15°C (27°F). July temperatures can soar, with recent years recording highs up to 35°C (95°F) and even 40°C (104°F) in 2022. However, the nearby Lake Balaton generally stays cooler, around 30°C (86°F), which helps to moderate the local climate with its cooling breezes and provision of moisture.
As you might expect, Kéknyelű retains more acidity when grown on east and south-east facing slopes. Nevertheless, even those cultivated on the warmer south and south-west slopes remain relatively crisp and fresh. This acidity is complemented by a sense of minerality, manifesting as a combination of slate, salt, and a silky-graphite texture. Over time, the rich texture of Kéknyelű can develop an oily character as it ages in the bottle.
Bàlint guided me to the Research Institute of Wine and Oenology (MATE) nestled among the Badacsony Hill vineyards to introduce me to viticulturist Csaba Nemeth and winemaker Andreas Kollath. Despite extensive research, they have not succeeded in pinpointing the lineage of Kéknyelű, suggesting it might be a derivative of the ancient Zöld Hajnos variety.
To combat Kéknyelű’s challenges with low yields and virus susceptibility, the Institute has innovated three clones. Following the uprooting of twenty hectares by major producer Varga in 2013 due to virus infection, the total area of Kéknyelű vines was at just 50 hectares. Among the clones, B1 is notable for higher yields and is suited for vertical trellising, encouraging further planting. Clone B3 shows sensitivity to noble rot, making it ideal for crafting sweet wines. A sampling of MATE’s late-harvest Kéknyelű 2022, barrel-aged by the institute, revealed a deliciously marmalade-rich flavor balanced by essential freshness. Historically, Kéknyelű was revered between 1855–1875 and the 1930s for its wines, often used for producing an array of styles from dry to semi-sweet and even dessert wines, typically harvested late, as Bàlint explained.
Csaba Nemeth shared that the region’s soil is rich in potassium, contributing to the notably high pH levels—above 3.5—of Badacsony wines. This is a major factor in Kéknyelű’s signature silkiness that evolves to a creamy (often described as oily) texture. In colder vintages, the pH can drop to about 3.3, while warmer seasons may see levels up to 3.6. Given these conditions, many producers opt to forego malolactic fermentation.
Nemeth and Kollath have crafted their Kéknyelű in a modern, more vibrant fashion using cultured yeast and temperature controls, deliberately omitting oak to preserve the wine’s aromatic qualities. Their MATE Kéknyelű 2023 I sampled was notably floral with a distinct, silky texture that they humorously describe as soapy.
While Kéknyelű may not become extensively cultivated, it is encouraging to observe some recent vineyard expansions. In 2019, Vali Winery introduced 2 hectares, and Sike Balázs planted 0.7 hectares facing southwest. A tasting of the Sike Balázs’s 2023 tank sample revealed a floral, light, and slightly salty profile. With these new plantings, we can anticipate more single-vineyard expressions in the near future. Bálint, an advisor for Sabar Winery among others, has introduced vines on Gulács hill and a few rows on Badacsony hill for Pláne Borterasz, a local wine bar noted for its laid-back atmosphere, making it a recommended spot for those keen on exploring local varieties.
However, some prime locations on Badacsony Hill and Saint George Hill face a precarious future. A desire for lake views and development has driven property prices up to €100,000 per hectare, with new owners often neglecting the vineyards. Yet, moving away from the lake, land sells for about €10,000 a hectare. This serene, pastoral countryside, vibrant in its spring verdure as seen during my visit, draws both tourists and secondary homeowners from Budapest. The tidy, white homes, now refurbished as homestays complete with wine terraces, signal a booming phase in wine tourism. Thankfully, among these new residents are dedicated individuals like Gábor Ádám, who sought a pastoral life and has now planted 5 hectares, including some Kéknyelű, on the sandstone terrain adjacent to his charming guest house on Sabar-Hegy.
During a delightful spring meeting organized by Gábor, I encountered 13 Kéknyelű producers who brought wines from a recent vintage, an older one, and a palpable excitement. All the wines captivated me with none falling short of expectation. Interestingly, despite their varied winemaking techniques, a consistent profile of light floral, herbaceous, and citrus flavors prevailed, maturing into more honeyed notes with age. On the palate, they exhibited a slatey-salty minerality coupled with a silky-satin texture, evidently expressing the blend of terroir and grape characteristics.
Many producers featured wines from the dry and warm 2022 vintage which tended to be richer and softer. Bálint noted that “Kéknyelű often loses its tartaric acidity in dry years, consuming the acid when sugar production ceases, resulting in wines with about 16 brix (8.5% potential alcohol) at 5.5 TA.” This was confirmed as many 2022 wines displayed reduced acidity. Revisiting any remaining wine the next day proved beneficial, as they generally improved, suggesting the advantage of decanting these vintages.
In contrast, the 2023 vintage, despite being warmer, had higher malic acidity due to wetter conditions, resulting in fresher tasting wines. I didn’t sample any from 2021 or 2020, though I found the 2020s particularly appealing. The 2017 vintage, being warm but less extreme than 2022 or 2018, retained vibrant qualities. These observations underscore Kéknyelű’s potential to refine and improve with age, especially considering the recent trend of warmer summers.
Regarding winemaking methods, some producers prefer the reductive stainless steel approach, notable among them is Sike Balázs Winery. Their 2020 Kéknyelű from older vines situated on a steep southern incline of Badacsony Hill, initially showcased a savory graphite character and evolved into a more grippy and slatey profile after 24 hours. It stood out as one of my favorites during the tasting.
Éliás Winery predominantly uses stainless steel for crafting their conventional Kéknyelű. The 2020 vintage was noted for its bright, citrusy characteristics, while the Éliás ‘A Kő Marad’ 2022, which incorporates one-third oak aging, initially presented subtly, improving significantly on the second day to reveal a smooth, stone-like texture with commendable length and intensity.
Most Kéknyelű producers opt for aging their wines in barrels. Commonly, large 1,500-liter older oak foudres are employed, although there is a trend towards smaller 500-liter barrels, and some vintners reserve a portion in stainless steel to maintain freshness. Generally, these wines are not stirred during aging to avoid promoting malolactic fermentation and are typically bottled after 6 months, irrespective of the aging vessel.
The oak influence in these wines tends to be understated, with the exception of the notably oaky Sipos Kéknyelű 2022. The Borbély Kéknyelű wines, aged in sizeable old oak vessels, exhibited a noticeable oxidative quality, suggesting a more traditional approach. The Borbély 2022 featured an intriguing mix of asphalt smokiness and fennel, enjoyable initially but less so the next day; meanwhile, the 2018 vintage had evolved significantly.
While Sabar Winery sources its must from Bobély, their resultant wines diverge distinctly. Sabar processes and matures its Kéknyelű in aged 500l Stockinger barrels for seven months and uses natural yeast for fermentation. Sometimes, if the wine does not fully ferment, it retains some residual sugar, as was the case with the 4g/l present in Sabar’s 2022 Kéknyelű, which was effectively countered by its salinity. Bálint leads the winemaking at Sabar.
Sabar’s 2020 vintage offers a complex mix of bitter, sweet, and miso elements, resulting in a glossy and desirable wine. Similarly, the Kéknyelű A Teraszról 2020 by Edvi Illés, which underwent a prolonged fermentation process using indigenous yeast in older oak barrels, exudes rich nutty and savory flavors.
Bálint crafts wine in a modest quantity, using just a 300l barrel from his small vineyard located below the treeline on Saint George’s Hill, benefiting from its cooler southeastern exposure. The Foldi Bálint Kéknyelű 2022 at first appears subdued, but reveals a sleek, silky composition with slate notes after 24 hours of opening, whereas the 2020 vintage is expressive, combining savory and salty flavors with a creamy texture and a refreshing finish, presenting a distinctly youthful and harmonized character.
Another group of innovators, including Váli Winery, are exploring skin contact, MLF, and bâtonnage techniques. Among the standout examples is Váli Péter Ágyús dűlő 2022, noted for its punchy, savory taste with a hint of funk, accompanied by a bottle-fermented Kéknyelű. Moreover, Eliás Brut Nature 2021 impresses with its rose petal scent and a spicy, sapid palate, which surprisingly is more influenced by terroir and varietal characteristics rather than autolysis.
The aging potential of Kéknyelű in the bottle is well recognized, with a consensus among producers that it ideally requires between four to six years to fully develop its signature honeyed nuances. The Istvándi Kéknyelű 2019 is already demonstrating this with its wildflower honey profile, while the 2017 exhibits additional layers of honey, orange, and bitter almond. Its salty, vibrant nature continues to refine with age, resulting in a sapid but pleasing finish. The Válibor 2017 (magnum) is also commendable for its honeyed zest. From the warmer 2018 season, Laposa Kéknyelű expresses evolved notes of brioche and hay-honey.
As Kéknyelű ages, it acquires complex tertiary notes of honey and a subtle aroma of burnt orange peel. Initially delicate floral and almond tones mature into a deeper, buttery fennel flavor. Simultaneously, the texture grows increasingly waxy, enhancing the wine’s body.
While there is some concern among producers about establishing a definitive style for Badacsony Kéknyelű, it may be more beneficial to embrace versatility. The key factor is the expression of terroir. Concentrating on this aspect could enable Kéknyelű to regain the high regard it held in the 19th century, though likely within a more specialized market.