My friend Michael Broadbent, a trailblazer in wine auctions, often filled his Decanter magazine column, which he wrote for over four decades, with stories of his dining adventures and the wines they enjoyed. While I’m not sure if tales of the Johnson family’s wine choices would captivate you similarly, there are times when I must share experiences that are simply too delightful not to evoke envy. Recently, a group known as the Notting Hill Grand Cru Club convened at the Garrick Club in Covent Garden, bringing with them a collection of what I consider the most enticing—or at the very least, most alluring—vintages of Burgundy, including Musigny and Chambolle.
The evening, far from being a session of composed analysis, brimmed with enthusiasm, particularly as more exquisite wines were uncorked. The noise escalated notably by the fourth bottle, a 1er Cru Les Amoureuses from Mugnier, forcing me to deactivate my hearing aids, and completely remove them by the sixth. Attempts to moderate the jubilation proved futile. Our aperitif, a Meursault Charmes 1er Cru from 1976, demonstrated that great white Burgundies could mature yet remain vivaciously fresh—a delicious contradiction. This was accompanied by salmon canapés in a cozy private dining space, until we transitioned to a more laid-back seating arrangement to indulge in the red wines that circulated the table.
Keeping track of which wine was in which glass was a challenge without a formal system, as we had nine red wines and only four glasses per person! Suggestions of mixing Chambolle Les Fuées with Chambolle les Gruenchers were taken in stride. Amidst this, I attempted to document the details, soon realizing the futility as the vintages spanned from 2005 to 1982. In such exuberant circumstances, what should a wise wine lover do?
He lies back and thinks of France. I let the essence of Musigny weave its spell around me. I had a shot at describing it in my first book, many years ago. “More delicate than Chambertin,” I mentioned. True. “The sweet savouriness of Burgundy comes out in it more than in any other wine. It lingers and spreads in your mouth with its bouquet of flavours-within-flavours.” Totally inadequate.