Chianti Classico has been recently separated into 11 UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, awkwardly translated into Additional Geographical Units). From the 2022 harvest, this permits winemakers to denote where the grapes originated within this broad appellation. It’s not a rigorous terroir-based classification (which would be excessively fine-grained to be practical), but it does give consumers a general idea of the wine’s origins, even if it doesn’t allow them to predict the taste.
Out of these 11, Lamole is the smallest and most comprehensible. There are only 80 hectares of vineyards here, all at high altitudes (average is 500 m). It’s located in the Greve Valley, and numerous trees surround the vines. The soils are non-limestone with a significant amount of Macigno sandstone. Only 88 individuals reside here and 8 winemakers produce wine in Lamole, with one – Lamole de Lamole – cultivating half of the vineyards.
We toured the appellation with Susanna Grassi from I Fabbri, followed by lunch at the Ristore di Lamole, and afterwards sampled an assortment of wines.
Podere Castrellinuzza Chianti Classico 2021
Contains 14% alcohol and is organic. It’s fresh, streamlined, concentrated, and vibrant with tart cherry fruit and pleasant dusty tannins. It’s juicy and streamlined with a sour cherry finish. It’s extremely vibrant and subtly spiced, with a minor stringent taste and a hint of bitterness at the end. 93/100
Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico Riserva 2020
14% alcohol. Aged 24 months in cement. Organic grapes. It possesses a taut and focused palate with a slightly bitter hint combined with cherry and raspberry fruits, supplemented by nice clinging tannins. The wine illustrates an element of purity and focus with charming sour cherry and plum, including tart raspberry notes. It offers freshness yet holds structured integrity. 94/100
Castellinuzza di Claudia Cunuzzi Chianti Classico 2018
14% alcohol. 95% Sangiovese including a touch of Malvasia Nera and Canaiolo, fermentation conducted in stainless steel then aged for two years in Slavonian oak botti. The palate is fresh and unidirectional with vivid berry and cherry fruits exhibiting savoury, spicy, slightly wooden twirl. The wine is taut and unidirectional and a bit severe yet holds nicely tart and juicy characteristics. 91/100
Castellinuzza Piuca Vigna Piuca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019
13% alcohol. It is polished in cement, tonneaux and barrique. The wine seems fresh and refined with juicy cherry and plum fruits, showing a prominent mineral line and satisfactory acidity. It is bright and focussed with a sour cherry finish. The wine has lovely intensity, making it bright. 94/100
I Fabbri Chianti Classico Lamole 2021
13% alcohol. It comes from the highest vineyards in Chianti Classico at 630-680 m, cultivated organically, aged in concrete. The wine is fine, bright, sophisticated and tart with fresh genuine red cherry and cranberry fruits, showing precision and focus. It is a charmingly bright wine with purity, decent focus and weight and a tapering, finely spiced finish. The palate is tart and stunning. 94/100
I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019
13.5% alcohol. A selection from oldest lower vines. Aged two years in large cask. The wine is classically proportioned with bright cherry and plum fruit supported by good structure and nice spicy detail. The body is dense and structured with appreciable weight. There is a nice grip to this wine. 94/100
Jurij Fiore Sonocosì a Lamole Chianti Classico 2022
The wine is obtained from a 580 m. vineyard and spends 10 months in cement. It has lovely aromatics: perfumed and bright with cherry and cranberry notes, as well as a touch of spice. The palate is really pure, fresh and linear with a lovely finesse and elegance, as well as good structure and acidity. This wine is so pretty but also has good structure and acidity, it’s a truly lovely expression of Chianti Classico. Not for everyone. 95/100
Jurij Fiore Porcacciamiseria Lamole Chianti Classico 2021
13.5% alcohol. The wine ages for 18 months in French oak, 30% new. It comes from a 654 m high vineyard, with 75 year old vines. Concentrated, intense and vivid with high acidity and firm tannins as well as bold cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit. There’s some spicy, smoky detail with density and firm tannins, with some wood. An impressive wine: a bit angular. 93/100
Castello di Lamole Le Stinche Chianti Classico 2016
14% alcohol. The wine has a nose of sour cherries, stewed plums and liqourice here with some tar and spice notes. Showing some bitter hints and a bit of development, this wine has lots of flavour. 90/100
Il Campino di Lamole Testardo Chianti Classico 2020
13% alcohol. It has a tart, spicy taste with balanced acidity and hints of sour cherry. The taste is also infused with notes of incense, tar and blood, and a hint of clove. The wine stands out for its focus, grip, freshness and savoury details. 91/100
Il Campino di Lamole Testardo Chianti Classico 2019
13.5% alcohol. This variant is dense and firm but accurately precise. It’s suffused with sweet berry and black fruit flavours, surrounded by notes of spice, resin and incense and a touch of old wood. The wine is firm, grippy and it also provides a spicy touch with fruits. Score: 92/100
Le Masse di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva Le Masse di Socci Annamaria 2019
14% alcohol. A hint of Merlot in the blend gives it a unique taste. The sweet cherry and plum fruit tastes have a slightly bloody accent as well as notes of dried herbs, spices and minerals. The wine has a lovely balance and weight: it’s supple, elegant and refined. Score: 95/100
Le Masse di Lamole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016
14% alcohol. This wine greets you with its savoury, ashy, and spicy notes on the nose, mixed with some development. Once tasted, it unveils its earthy, spicy and developed flavours on the palate which has a drying finish. The wine is somewhat tired and evolved, with a taste of stewed fruit. Score: 85/100
Lamole de Lamole Maggiole Chianti Classico 2020
It boasts a 14% alcohol content. This beverage strikes a nice balance, hinting at wood spice and coffee while exhibiting sleek ripe berry and cherry essences. The wine is fresh and rich in details with a heavy emphasis on fruit and a pronounced oak character. It scored 90 out of 100.
Lamole de Lamole Lareale Chianti Classico Riserva 2019
The alcohol content remains at 14%. It comes off as dense and somewhat woody, complete with firm tannins and a hint of wood spice. It exhibits a great deal of fruit while also showcasing a robust structure. Modern and polished, this wine expresses itself in a forward-looking style, finishing with a salty and grainy aftertaste. It is advisable to give it time to let the oak fully integrate. It scored a commendable 92 out of 100.