Sarah Ahmed praises the most recent stellar vintage of the original Douro red.
By Sarah Ahmed
Established in 1952, yet only produced in 21 select vintages (1952, 1953, 1954, 1955, 1957, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1978, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1985, 1991, 1995, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2008, 2011, and now 2015), Casa Ferreirinha’s Barca-Velha, the definitive Douro red, presents a fascinating enigma.
The custodians of this revered wine provide a straightforward explanation for why this iconic Douro product is rare and mature. As per Luís Sottomayor, the Chief Winemaker at Sogrape, “Barca-Velha maintains a distinct character. It’s crafted to endure and age well. It demands excellence.” Embodying this philosophy, the 21st release from 2015, described as “beginning to reveal its potential,” was showcased along with a robust magnum from 1999, “reaching peak complexity,” and a notably graceful bottle from 1982, “at its plateau.” QED.
“Launching eight years after the vintage and still being a baby sets Barca-Velha apart,” remarked Fernando da Cunha Guedes, President of Sogrape, the owner of Casa Ferreirinha. His statement underscores the unique aging process of Barca-Velha 2015, which, as of February 19, 2024, continued its prolonged maturation in Casa Ferreirinha’s cellars. In contrast, the elite producers of the “New Douro” launched their 2015 Douro reds in November 2017. These top-tier wines, while age-worthy, were notably approachable at release. Teresa Ameztoy from Duas Quintas described this vintage as “[20]11 and a half,” a reference to the balance of 2011’s harvest with the appealing charm of 2012.
Upon its release in June, Sottomayor delineated his views on Barca-Velha 2015, noting its robust structure reminiscent of 2011’s grandeur combined with the vibrant acidity and elegant profile characteristic of the 2008 vintage. This comparison highlighted the austerity of the 2008 Douro reds relative to 2012, reinforcing Sottomayor’s belief that the 2015 vintage, which produced a limited 16,567 bottles, would surpass the longevity of earlier vintages such as 1982 and 1999. He attributed this remarkable aging capability to the fluctuating hot and cool conditions of 2015, which fostered mature aromas and tannins akin to 2011 and a tension similar to 2008.
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This exclusive tasting, a mini-vertical presentation of Barca-Velha, showcased vintages crafted by all three winemakers who have overseen the production of this iconic Douro wine since 1952. The 1982 vintage, encapsulated by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida and declared by José Maria Soares Franco, primarily harvested from Quinta do Vale Meão, featured a nuanced, red-fruited blend dominated by Tinta Roriz (also known as Tempranillo) and aged entirely in new Portuguese oak, a technique also employed for the 1999 vintage.
Bottled and declared by Soares Franco, the 1999 vintage marked a pivotal shift as it was primarily sourced from Quinta da Leda in the Douro Superior, which continues to be a core source. This vintage marked a transition with Touriga Franca leading, surpassing Tinta Roriz, alongside a higher presence of Touriga Nacional, leading to a profile featuring darker, graceful fruit and robust, structured tannins. Sottomayor noted the change, explaining that Tinta Roriz has become overly productive, affecting intensity and quality. He emphasized the adaptability of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional in managing water stress better than Tinta Roriz.
Like other vintages of the 21st century, Barca-Velha 2015 benefited from extended aging in fine-grained French oak, enhancing the refinement of the tannins while preserving the fruit’s freshness. A notable introduction in the 2015 vintage is Sousão, a bold, resilient Portuguese varietal gaining traction in the Douro. Bottled by Sottomayor, he shared that cautious initial solo vinifications were undertaken to capture its potential before integrating into Ports to gauge its influence. Though not expected to dominate, Sottomayor finds Sousão valuable for its contribution to maintaining freshness in the face of climate change.
Addressing the challenges posed by climate change, Sottomayor is proactive, preparing for future generations by procuring elevated terrains within Douro Superior like Tapada do Castanheiro in 2014, Muxugata in 2018, and additional vineyards recently. Further efforts include planting new vineyards at Quinta da Leda, exploring novel varieties, and varying exposures and elevations to better suit climatic shifts. While optimistic about enhancing both the volume and frequency of Barca-Velha releases, Guedes and Sottomayor acknowledge the uncertain nature of production, which seldom surpasses 30,000 bottles annually, with a lower average observed between 2017 and 2020. Despite the uncertainties, Sottomayor confidently claims that today’s vintages surpass their predecessors, even revealing that vintages like Barca-Velha 1952 and 1954 are still impressive.
2015 Casa Ferreirinha Barca-Velha (Douro DOC)
Vintage: Robust winter water reserves supported consistent and even veraison despite the year’s initially dry conditions, overly warm temperatures between April and May, and an exceptionally warm summer. The temperature changes in August and September contributed to the ideal maturation of the grapes, maintaining their refined elegance and balance.
Fruit source: Predominantly from Quinta da Leda in Douro Superior, complemented by contributions from higher altitude vineyards in Meda, including Tapada do Castanheiro.
Grape Varieties: Comprised of 43% Touriga Franca, 40% Touriga Nacional, 10% Sousão, 5% Tinto Cão, and 2% Tinta Roriz.
Aging: The wine was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, of which 75% were new.
Analyses: ABV 14.5%, total acidity 5.5g/l, pH: 3.6.
The debut of Sousão in this 21st edition leaves a strong impression. Dominated by graphite tannins and a sweeping wave of mineral acidity, the profound, inky blackcurrant and blackberry flavors are potent and polished, showcasing remarkable persistence. Hints of crushed coriander seed add a floral, spicy twist to the typical licorice and anise tones of Barca Velha. Lean and devoid of any excess, this vintage offers a drier and more classical profile than anticipated, given the year. Intense and well-structured, this captivating vintage firmly maintains its hold. A powerful display of winemaking that promises to endure for decades. Drinking window: 2024–55+.| 97
1999 Casa Ferreirinha Barca-Velha (Douro DOC; magnum)
Vintage: The season was marked by a notably dry winter and spring, which adversely affected both flowering and fruit set. Excessive rainfall in August and September provided some balance to the ripening phase. Harvest started on September 10 in the Douro Superior.
Fruit source: Douro Superior—primarily from Quinta da Leda, along with selections from Meda.
Grape Varieties: 45% Touriga Francesa, 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Nacional, 5% Tinto Cão.
Aging: 12–18 months in new 225l barrels of Portuguese oak.
Analyses: Alcohol by volume 12%, total acidity 5.30g/l, pH: 3.45.
Tasting note: Offered in a magnum, this quarter-century-old vino, being the first to exclude grapes from Quinta do Vale Meão, is strikingly vigorous with a young purplish crimson color. It’s dense with dominant flavors of black plum and blackberry that are both rich and succulent. Complemented with nuances of licorice, anise, and black cardamom, the wine gradually unveils softer tones of linseed, cured leather, caraway, and roasted chestnuts, accented with a touch of bergamot/orange. A robust structure of graphite tannins underpins the fruits, extending into a lengthy, spicy finish. More delights are anticipated in the future. 2024–40. | 96+
1982 Casa Ferreirinha Barca-Velha (Vinho Tinto de Mesa)
Vintage: The winter was unusually dry with temperatures above the norm. A scorching, arid summer ensured the grapes reached high levels of maturity and concentration, with the dry spell continuing into the harvest period.
Fruit source: Mainly sourced from Douro Superior at Quinta da Vale de Meão, alongside contributions from Meda and Quinta da Leda.
Grape Composition: 70% Tinta Roriz, 10% Touriga Francesa, 10% Tinta Barroca, 5% Touriga Nacional, 5% various others.
Maturation: Matured for 12 to 18 months in newly crafted 225-liter barrels made of Portuguese oak.
Wine Analysis: Alcohol by Volume: 12%, Total Acidity: 5.40g/l, pH level: 3.56.
Tasting Notes: The dominant Tinta Roriz grape highlights a vibrant red fruit profile in this vintage. The wine possesses a subtle framework of mature, mineral-inflected tannins complemented by lush flavors of plum and strawberry jam. Additional layers include salted plum, graphite, red licorice, aromatic baking spices, and esteva, with emerging hints of potpourri and tomato plant as the wine unfolds. The most striking feature of this 42-year-old wine, however, is its enduring purity, freshness, and precision. Truly a refined performance. Drink: 2024–2030. | 96 Points