A new pair of English sparkling wines are expressions of the country’s chalky south.
Anne Krebiehl MW is impressed by Black Chalk Paragon and Inversion, the Hampshire producer’s new Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs cuvées.
It is exceedingly rare that winemakers launch new wines with the attribute “technical,” yet that is exactly what Jacob Leadley and Zoë Driver, the winemakers at Black Chalk have done. The wines are a Blanc de Blancs called Paragon and a Blanc de Noirs called Inversion. Both spent 26 months on lees, were disgorged in July 2023, and are the first “premium tier” releases from this relatively young winery in Hampshire. 2020 was the year their “state-of-the-art winery” was built, enabling them to craft these two Vintage wines released in April 2024.
By “technical” they refer to a meticulous approach involving distinct vinification of clones, specific yeasts, selective oak usage, avoiding malolactic fermentation, and omitting fining—essentially no more intricate than any conventional method of creating sparkling wine. However, the peculiar focus, as Leadley, the winemaker and owner of Black Chalk explains, is to ensure the essence of Hampshire is reflected as authentically as possible in their wines. “The primary goal is to represent Hampshire’s characteristics thoroughly in our final products, as English winemaking is still in its infancy. Thus, we operate with precise attention to each clonal variation, separate pressing, and diligent blending to achieve the desired expression of fruit purity.”
The grapes for both wines came from Upper Levels vineyard, an east-sloping, protected, and comparatively warmer area in Hampshire’s Test Valley. This site, with minimal topsoil over a base of pure chalk, experiences specific climatic advantages, as per Leadley. “Test Valley’s chalk streams notably affect the purity of the water, which transcends to the fruit during winemaking. Our location’s microclimate, shielded by the Isle of Wight and not intensely impacted by the Channel, aids in mitigating spring frost threats while benefiting from the warmth in the summers, resulting in exceptionally ripe grapes, as was the case in the summer of 2020,” Leadley recounts about their fruitful harvest that year under a lengthy lease agreement.
Leadley discusses a predictive planting strategy undertaken by a predecessor involving 30 acres distributed across three vineyards with diverse clonal and rootstock options. “Zoë and I, during the construction of our winery in 2020, deliberated on how each clone would uniquely contribute if processed separately. Implementing numerous small tanks was part of this strategic decision, and it has proven pivotal in understanding the distinctiveness of each clone, despite their similar chemical properties. The real revelation comes during the tasting post-harvest,” elaborates Leadley. Driver adds, “Adjacent clones sharing seemingly similar chemistry before processing can astonishingly evolve into distinctly different varieties. This has significantly contributed to our understanding, helping us establish a vital database for making informed choices about which clones best suit varying wine styles each year. It’s a cornerstone of our technical journey and a prime learning experience.”
The wines are aptly named. The Chardonnay Paragon, based chiefly on clones 95, 121, 76, and 131, 46% fermented in oak, is indeed a paragon of Blanc de Blancs. Despite the oak, it is almost sylphlike, a brilliant expression of England’s chalky south. The Blanc de Noirs, likewise, has a well-chosen name in Inversion, because it is not an autolytic, bold, rich, and vinous Blanc de Noirs, but on the contrary, a vision of poise, based chiefly on the 777 clone, notably not a sparkling clone, which makes up two thirds of this 83% Pinot Noir and 17% Pinot Meunier blend. Just three percent of base wines saw oak—five-year-old Burgundian barrels at that. Both wines were allowed to remain svelte, with a translucency that allows you to see depth, climate, and place.
Leadley says: “We didn’t want to make just another Blanc de Noirs or another Blanc de Blancs. It was an active decision. We are not showcasing autolytic character because England has got this amazing ability to ripen fruit over a long period of time on chalk, which gives a freshness and a purity that is unlike other sparkling wine regions. And that is something we want to show, something we really want to push, which has been the story since the very beginning of Black Chalk.” Driver adds: “Clone 777 is the star. What we are trying to show at Black Chalk is the fruit. It’s hard to grow fruit in the UK, so it’s such a joy to bring it in at harvest, and we really want that to be the star of the wines, without masking or manipulating it.”
The summer of 2020 was beautiful and warm. Have they bottled more Paragons and Inversions since? “Inversion happened in 2021, which actually was a really good year for us,” Leadley says of this much more challenging growing season. “Chardonnay was a challenge, so we didn’t do Paragon. But in 2022, we did both.” What a lovely thought, to be able to compare different Paragons and Inversions in the future—because while these two initial releases are delicious now, they definitely have the ability to age well.
2020 Black Chalk Paragon
(12.5% ABV; 3,535 bottles; disgorged July 2023; dosage 5.9g/l)
The aroma of this wine, with its hints of creamy essence, dried corn husk, and soft polenta, subtly complemented by a touch of lemon, distinctly announces its Chardonnay heritage. The palate experiences a light, luminous quality, bursting with the zest of lemon yet draped in a silky, chiffon-like texture that is both exciting and refined. Despite its airy and delicate nature, it boasts a deep saline quality, bringing a cool, silver-toned lemon gloss that adds substantial depth. The superfine mousse gracefully elevates the elegance and precision of this wine, marked by its refined, long-lasting, and distinct saline finish. | 94
2020 Black Chalk Inversion
(12.5% ABV; 1,939 bottles; disgorged July 2023; dosage 6.3g/l)
Displaying a surprising paleness for a Blanc de Noirs, the wine greets the nose with aromas of fresh white currants, lemon, and light-yellow Reine Claude plums, offering a vivid, almost sherbet-like freshness. Upon tasting, the robust structure of Pinot Noir emerges, setting a richer, textural scene reminiscent of the soft surface of a fresh oyster mushroom. This backdrop, subtly yeasty and extremely refined, is infused with a bright, ripe-lemon freshness. The wine steers clear of overly pronounced autolysis or overt oak influences, presenting an exceptionally pure and delicate expression of Pinot Noir with a straightforward yet elegant structure. A Blanc de Noirs unlike the usual, delivering unexpected gracefulness. | 94