Warm autumn sunlight filters into the tasting room of Barbadillo in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a serene spot in Spain’s Sherry region. Among the bottles of both new and aged wines, Montserrat (Montse) Molina, a prominent figure in the world of Sherry, shares her journey from pharmacist to winemaker, illustrating her unique blend of knowledge and passion.
Molina arrived in Sanlúcar in 1997 without prior experience in winemaking. Raised in Catalonia and with a pharmacy degree from Navarra, she initially pursued a career in healthcare. However, her interest in food science led her to explore winemaking. An unexpected newspaper ad for a winemaking role sparked her curiosity about the Sherry region — a place tied to her family roots in Andalucía. Without hesitation, she packed her car and headed south.
Living above the winery and attempting to adjust to a new culture wasn’t easy at first, but the support from her colleagues eased her transition. She worked closely with a technical director who shared invaluable insights, nurturing her understanding of the intricate winemaking process.
Despite the industry being male-dominated, Molina thrived, noting that several women have held significant roles in established wineries within the region, paving the way for future generations.
Throughout her 28-year journey, Molina has led innovative efforts at Barbadillo, a company known for its adaptability. She embraced digitalization, enabling more efficient winemaking practices. Under her guidance, the winery explored new expressions of Sherry, crafting a range of still white wines from the unique albariza soils and introducing new manzanilla variants to capture consumer interest.
One of her standout projects is the vineyard-exclusive Mirabrás, a 100% Palomino Fino wine that exemplifies the terroir’s character. Her pride also extends to their red wine, historically unplanted in the region, which symbolizes her commitment to showcasing the area’s full potential.
Molina continues to innovate, focusing on a sparkling wine named Toto made predominantly from Palomino grapes, connecting traditional practices with contemporary palates. She derives immense joy from seeing how the yeast – a key component in Sherry – captivates tasters, emphasizing the importance of maintaining the region’s cultural heritage.
In Molina’s words, “More than anything, we have to maintain and defend the wines of the region, which are culturally really important and unique in the world.” Initially contracted for just three months, her profound impact and unwavering dedication reveal that she is remarkably committed and integral to the future of Sherry production.