Back in early December, I joined an international group of journalists in Alba for the 30th edition of Nebbiolo Prima, a celebrated event dedicated to the Nebbiolo wines of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. Since its inception in 1996, Nebbiolo Prima has showcased new vintages prior to their release, organized by the Consorzio Albeisa, which represents 318 member wineries.
Over three days, we tasted 275 wines, primarily from the 2022 and 2023 vintages, along with a selection from 2021 and 2020, culminating in a few from 2010–2013. Opening remarks from the Consorzio focused on vineyard statistics, including significant growth in land under vine and production relative to Langhe-designated wines over the last decade. Although global sales in the wine industry have slowed, the United States remains a vital market for Barolo and Barbaresco, accounting for nearly 19% of exports from these regions.
During the tasting, it became evident that while sommeliers often liken Nebbiolo to Pinot Noir, their distinct differences were apparent. Nebbiolo has a more pronounced tannic structure, frequently possessing an elevated acidity that reinforces its tannins. My assessments corroborated observations that Nebbiolo is better suited for enthusiasts, as its tannin profile is bolder than that of Pinot Noir, even in hefty Burgundies. As the most cultivated grape in the Langhe, Nebbiolo enjoys varied expressions that reflect its terroir—each community and cru showcasing unique characteristics.
While many wines performed commendably, I noted significant quality variability that caught the attention of my colleagues. Several wines scored poorly, attributed in part to recent bottling, with some exhibiting high volatile acidity. Nonetheless, typicity among the regions and their respective communes shone through, confirming a distinct sense of place after each tasting.
The Complex 2023 Vintage
Winemakers consider 2023 to be a strong vintage, striking a balance of acidity and structure. Michele Bergadano described it as a mixture of the richness of 2020 and the powerful tannins of 2021, influenced by more temperate summer conditions. The rainfall in late August helped maintain grape acidity.
Roero wines in 2023 were exceptional and gaining traction in the U.S. market. Although production is lower than Barolo or Barbaresco, Roero wines are known for their agile and gastronomic nature, showcasing bright acidity and fresh red berry flavors.
Barbaresco wines exhibited very good overall results, particularly from the Treiso and Neive communes. In contrast, some Barbaresco from other areas appeared unbalanced. Wines designated from multiple communes showed better results, while some 2022 Riservas disappointed against expectations.
Notable Wines
Excellent Wines – Barbaresco DOCG 2023:
- Cascina Luisin Neive Basarin
- Oddero Poderi e Cantine Neive Gallina
- Az. Agr. Pietro Rinaldi Neive San Cristoforo
Very Good Wines – Barolo DOCG 2022:
- Bel Colle Verduno Monvigliero
- Azienda Agricola Diego Morra Verduno Monvigliero
- G.D. Vajra Barolo Baudana
The Difficult 2022 Vintage
The extremely hot and dry growing season of 2022 posed challenges, yet the resulting Nebbiolo wines surprised many with their quality. As Emanuela Bolla of Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno noted, effective canopy management became essential for maintaining fruit quality under stress.
The Bright Future of Langhe Nebbiolo
Producers assert that despite current global challenges in the wine industry, the commitment to Langhe-designated Nebbiolo wines reflects confidence in their growth potential in the U.S. market. As small family wineries focusing on high-quality production mirror practices from renowned wine regions globally, the outlook for Nebbiolo and its origins continues to look promising.
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