At the Table: Huîtres et Crépinettes Truffées
As the festive season approaches, Bordeaux showcases its unique culinary treasure: huîtres et crépinettes truffées, a dish that perfectly blends seafood and meat, making it a popular choice for Christmas feasts.
Bordeaux may not be as famous for its culinary contributions as neighboring regions like Burgundy, but it boasts delightful local products. While many associate Bordeaux with classic beef dishes and pastries, it offers standout delicacies such as the Cap Ferret oysters and crépinettes, which are particularly enjoyed during holiday celebrations. This dish elevates tradition by enhancing the crépinettes with black truffles, presenting a luxurious spin on a classic surf-and-turf combination.
The crépinettes are savory meat patties crafted from seasoned minced pork, wrapped in caul fat—offering a melt-in-the-mouth experience when cooked. Traditionally, they can be grilled, fried, or baked, and are often accompanied by a rich sauce when served in bistros outside of their festive pairing with oysters. Cap Ferret oysters, sourced from the nutrient-rich waters of the Bassin d’Arcachon and cultivated since the 19th century, are famed for their quality and flavor.
During Christmas in Bordeaux, these shucked oysters are often plated alongside the crépinettes, creating a captivating contrast of hot and cold temperatures—salty, fresh oysters paired with the hearty richness of the meat patties. To enhance the combination, a sharp sauce mignonette, made from shallots in red wine vinegar, adds zesty brightness to the dish.
When it comes to pairing wines with huîtres et crépinettes truffées, white wines are often the go-to choice. Local recommendations include young Sauvignon Blancs or Sauvignon-based wines from the Entre-Deux-Mers region. However, for a more nuanced experience, high-acid options like Chablis or Muscadet Sur Lie may provide depth to counterbalance the richness of the crépinettes.
Champagne is another fantastic companion, especially those with reserve wines, offering complexity that complements both the oysters and the meat. Vintage options like Taittinger Millésime 2016 or Billecart-Salmon Le Réserve Vintage can enhance this unique culinary pairing.
For red wine enthusiasts, pairing can be tricky, but lighter-bodied reds like cool-climate Pinot Noirs or mineral-driven Beaujolais Crus may work well when lightly chilled, echoing the qualities found in many dry whites.
By blending the flavors and textures of the sea and the land, huîtres et crépinettes truffées beautifully embodies the spirit of holiday feasting in Bordeaux, promising a memorable dining experience for those fortunate enough to indulge.