Neal Hulkower reviews Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate: A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine by Alex Maltman, the latter’s second challenge to prevailing misconceptions about how soil and minerals affect wine.
Following his earlier work, Vineyards, Rocks, & Soils: The Wine Lover’s Guide to Geology, Maltman takes a deeper dive into the interplay between geology and wine. Despite broad acknowledgment of the term "minerality" by wine critics and enthusiasts alike, few understand the inherent shortcomings of such descriptors. Maltman, a retired professor of earth sciences, contends it’s erroneous to draw a direct line between geological components and the sensory perception of wine—virtually all tastes attributed to minerals are, in fact, organic.
In his latest book, Maltman questions pervasive beliefs: How do soils affect the taste of wine? He emphasizes the importance of water and humus while noting that nutrient content can significantly differ from geological material. As he asserts, the chemistry brought to the roots through water is crucial, which can be influenced by human activity, like agrochemicals. This essentially removes the romanticized idea of "terroir" as a mystical connection between soil and taste.
In the chapters that follow, Maltman elucidates the difference between geological and nutrient minerals, outlining that the latter are necessary for vine development but do not impart taste to wine. Notably, he discusses how common tasting notes—like "granite tones" or "mineral qualities"—rely on metaphor, given that no scientific basis links these attributes directly to sensory characteristics.
Maltman’s writing weaves through several notable wine regions, demystifying geology for readers while addressing the absurdity of tasting stones in wine. He does not shy away from related beverages, addressing how minerals influence beer, asserting beer’s complexity compared to wine largely due to its relationship with water.
In the epilogue, he speculates on the persistence of geological claims in wine commentary, humorously pondering if these notions will eventually fade or be substantiated by future science. Throughout Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate, he challenges the established norms of wine writing, advocating for a more scientifically aligned approach to discussing the profound relationships that actually exist in viticulture.
Maltman’s works should serve as essential reading for wine enthusiasts and professionals alike, pushing for clarity and precision in how we articulate the elements that contribute to our understanding and enjoyment of wine.