It has been four decades since New Zealand’s wine industry first garnered international acclaim for its unique Sauvignon Blanc, and the current landscape of fine wine production has expanded significantly beyond Marlborough’s famous varietal. Ken Gargett’s comprehensive exploration of New Zealand wine reveals a thriving industry that now boasts a diverse array of regions and varietals.
During a recent ten-day tour of New Zealand’s vineyards and wineries, Gargett found it striking that Sauvignon Blanc did not feature prominently until they arrived in Marlborough, the epicenter of this beloved grape. The purpose of the tour was to gauge the overall status of New Zealand wine in the global fine wine market, and the findings were exciting.
The country’s wine production stretches over 1,000 miles from Northland in the North Island to Central Otago in the South Island, with every region shaped by its proximity to the ocean—except for Central Otago, which is notably inland. By 2023, New Zealand had 41,860 hectares of vineyards yielding 360 million liters of wine, though production had dipped from the previous year due to adverse weather conditions.
Sauvignon Blanc has become synonymous with New Zealand wine, occupying more than 27,000 hectares of vineyards, while Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and other varietals account for far less acreage. Marlborough alone has nearly 30,000 hectares planted, mostly of Sauvignon Blanc. The heavy reliance on this grape has led to discussions within the industry about the potential to produce higher quality wines across different varietals.
Export markets for New Zealand wines flourish, with prominent demand from the USA, UK, and Australia. While Sauvignon Blanc dominates profits, many winemakers are eager to showcase their abilities with other varietals. There’s a push from several producers in Marlborough to produce more complex and interesting Sauvignon Blancs, distancing themselves from the cheaper, less refined versions that flood the market.
A key figure in promoting awareness of New Zealand’s fine wines is Steve Smith, MW, the first person in the world to attain a Master of Wine designation while being a viticulturist. He co-founded Craggy Range and has been an influential force in the New Zealand wine scene for decades. Smith has spearheaded various initiatives, including the New Zealand Fine Wine Producers Group, aimed at promoting high-quality wines and supporting smaller producers. His recent efforts aligned with a successful tour, which experienced favorable weather—a stark contrast to a previous group’s visit that faced significant challenges from a cyclone.
Smith’s ongoing commitment to elevating New Zealand’s reputation in the wine world suggests we can expect to hear much more about its fine wines in the future. His efforts warrant recognition, and many believe he deserves to be celebrated as a significant figure in global viticulture.