Changes on the menu
A newly released book dives into the captivating history of the restaurant menu, often referred to as "the world’s favorite piece of paper," showcasing how its expectations have evolved alongside culinary practices over the years. Tastes and Traditions: A Journey through Menu History by Nathalie Cooke explores how menus serve not just as a functional list, but as an illuminating reflection of societal tastes and trends.
Cooke’s work highlights how menus can be both rich in detail and artistic expression. With collections from iconic establishments, such as the Conrad Hilton Library and the John Johnson Collection at Oxford, the book provides an engaging history lesson for both the serious researcher and the curious reader.
Menus have transitioned dramatically—from extravagant descriptions that might leave diners bewildered, to succinct items that often hint at grander presentations that are less recognizable in name. Through its pages, Tastes and Traditions underscores this transformation while celebrating the artful nature of menu design.
The chapters investigate various types of menus, from those showcasing foreign cuisines to child-friendly options, embedding historical context that heightens their significance. Cooke reveals an interesting sociological study, noting how diners gravitate towards certain areas of menus, often choosing the first item available in a category, implying a strategic layout by restaurateurs to encourage certain selections.
The exploration extends beyond mere choice; Cooke notes how significant occasions were often accompanied by quite modest meals, contrasting with gourmet offerings in modern culinary settings. Anecdotes about Royal dinners and international fairs reveal how gastronomic expectations were often shaped by social contexts and perceptions, such as the over-the-top offerings at the Soviet pavilion compared to simpler fare presented to George VI.
Cooke adeptly navigates the cultural implications of menu items, such as the emergence of "chop-suey cuisine," emphasizing how dishes are reshaped for Western palates based on misconceptions and curiosity about cultural foods. The book also highlights a long-standing tradition of artists contributing to menu designs, dating back to figures like Toulouse-Lautrec.
Despite the wealth of insight provided, minor transcription errors and misidentifications do occur, but they do not overshadow the compelling narrative of the menus through time. Cooke’s examination reveals menus as living documents—constantly adapting to culinary trends and societal norms.
The work invites us to consider how we consume dining experiences today, from technological advancements that present images alongside menu items to whimsical offerings aimed at nostalgia. Whether a diner seeks extravagant flavor or simple comfort, menus continue to shape the shared experience of food.
Published by Reaktion Books, Tastes and Traditions: A Journey through Menu History is a thought-provoking exploration of the narratives we consume, both at the table and through the pages of history.