In an insightful reflection from 2017, David Schildknecht delves into the concept of "minerality" in wine tasting, examining whether it transcends mere buzzword status. Despite its relatively recent emergence, the term "minerality" has quickly become enshrined in wine discourse, shrouded in ambiguity—what Jancis Robinson MW dubs “the illusive M-word.”
At a 2014 symposium on minerality, organizers Antonio Palacios and David Molina noted an alarming surge in the term’s usage. Their subsequent research aimed to uncover the chemical bases for perceiving minerality in wine, while acknowledging the risks of vague terminology that may lead to its designation as an empty phrase.
The descriptors associated with minerality vary widely; references to sensations of salinity, chalkiness, or the taste of wet stone abound. However, these perceptions often lead to confusion about whether there is an actual mineral presence influencing wine flavors, as many assume a direct connection between soil composition and wine profiles. Scientific consensus generally contradicts such beliefs, highlighting that vines absorb only what they require and that minerals in the ionic state are odorless and tasteless.
For instance, while the evocative floral notes found in wine do not prompt quests for their geological origins, the same cannot be said for mineral descriptors. Even as geologists and chemists wrestle with the question of how soil might impact wine tasting, they often remain skeptical about attributing specific flavor profiles to distinct geological elements.
Interestingly, winemakers like Pedro Parra argue for the significant influence of geology on flavor without confining their findings to mineral vocabulary. Instead, Parra explores textural sensations and specific locations on the palate, steering clear of the potentially vague "lick of slate" that might characterize certain wines.
Schildknecht emphasizes that although winemakers and critics frequently employ mineral terms to express complexity, these descriptors are fundamentally metaphorical, akin to references of fruits or flowers, and must not be taken as literal components of wine. Calling attention to these complexities, he urges a recognition of the metaphorical nature of language in wine tasting, advocating for a clearer, more honest discourse surrounding minerality in wine.
While the idea of minerality can enhance appreciation for a wine’s character, it remains crucial to acknowledge the scientific uncertainties surrounding the origins of flavors and textures, including those framed within the mineral lexicon.