Verjuice, an acidulant made from unripe, unfermented grapes, is one of Australia’s culinary treasures, notably popularized by food personality Maggie Beer. Though it has a long history in Europe and the Middle East—known by various names such as verjus in France and agresto in Italy—its prominence diminished with the rise of lemons in cooking.
Historically, verjuice was praised not only for its culinary versatility but also for its perceived health benefits. Classical texts reference its milder acidity compared to vinegar, making it suitable for a variety of dishes without overwhelming flavors. Its popularity waned in the 20th century, particularly in the latter half, but it remained a staple in some traditional recipes.
Maggie Beer discovered verjuice after moving to the Barossa Valley in 1973. Initially made for personal use from surplus Riesling grapes, she commercially produced it in 1984, becoming the first person to do so. Her efforts helped revive interest in this historic ingredient, which she describes as a gentle acid that enhances food flavors without overpowering them.
One dish that pairs particularly well with verjuice is lamb shanks with dried apricots, green peppercorns, and preserved lemon, which Beer features in her cookbook. The combination of umami from the lamb, sweet fruit, and salty preserved lemons creates a balanced profile, making it compatible with various wines.
For pairing, a mature Rioja Reserva stands out as an ideal choice. Its complexity complements the dish without being overwhelmed by other ingredients. Alternatives include Grenache-based blends from the Southern Rhône and Barossa regions, with specific recommendations like Baron de Ley 7 Viñas Reserva and Penfolds Bin 389 being particularly suitable.
Verjuice continues to gain recognition as a versatile ingredient, enriching both savory and sweet dishes while enhancing wine pairings.