In 2025, Simon Field MW explores the enchanting offerings of Philipponnat Champagne from the powerful 2015 vintage, noting the surprising finesse found in both recent and older releases. Celebrated for its robustness, Clos des Goisses showcases the potential of the 2015 vintage—a year marked by extremes of heat and intermittent rainfall.
Charles Philipponnat, the house’s figurehead, shared insights during a tasting in London, featuring the new 2015 releases along with the Juste Rosé from 2014 and the LV, which matures for 25 years after harvest. This cautious approach highlights Charles’s understanding of vintage complexities, emphasizing the importance of physiological ripeness over early harvests.
2015, as described by Charles, is a shift from previous cooler vintages, as it presents a new norm in achieving elevated alcohol levels, which were more typical in years such as 1976. He expresses pride in the distinct aromatic qualities of 2015, suggesting that it might rival historical standout vintages like 1988 or 1995.
Clos des Goisses holds a historic status as the first commercially recognized single-vineyard Champagne, thanks to Charles’s great uncle. Over decades, the vineyard expanded from 2.5 hectares to 5.85 hectares, divided into distinct plots, predominantly planted with Pinot Noir. The vineyard’s unique conditions, including a steep slope that benefits from adequate sun exposure, contribute to the unique flavor profiles of its wines.
Alongside its established cuvées, 2015 also presents La Rémissonne Cuvée, marking a significant return since its debut in 2009. Charles expresses high expectations for this wine, alongside Le Léon Aÿ Grand Cru, which stands out for its generous structure compared to the more austere La Rémissonne.
The tasting revealed a selection of captivating wines:
- 2015 La Rémissonne: A bold expression of Pinot Noir with hints of dried apricot and spice.
- 2015 Le Léon Aÿ Grand Cru: Noted for its chalky tension and vibrant citrus, it balances spice with fruit.
- 2015 Clos des Goisses: A powerful blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, showcasing minerality and youthful elegance.
- 2014 Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé: Elegant and supple, it pairs beautifully with savory dishes.
The anticipation surrounding these 2015 releases is palpable, with their ability to evolve over time suggesting they will be memorable additions to the world of fine Champagne.
For further insights on Champagne vintages, visit Wine & Food or Tasting Notes.