As Howell Mountain celebrates its fifth decade as an American Viticultural Area (AVA), the legacy of Randy Dunn and his renowned Cabernet Sauvignons remains a hallmark for the region. However, a new wave of skilled and financially robust producers is reshaping the landscape of Howell Mountain, adding a refined touch to its renowned wines. Despite these changes, the area retains its unrefined character, far from any gentrification.
The conversation shifts from Dunn Vineyards’ barrel cellar to an office that resembles a rustic farmhouse, reflecting its history as a 19th-century stagecoach stop. Mike Dunn has succeeded his stepfather Randy Dunn, who established the Howell Mountain reputation in the 1980s with robust Cabernet Sauvignons, known for their tannic quality. Mike describes himself as the defiant but dedicated stepson, often contesting various winemaking decisions with Randy, who is known for his firm beliefs, including a preference for lower alcohol levels in wine.
Randy’s influence extends beyond his own winery, as he championed Howell Mountain’s AVA designation. The region now boasts 16 wineries, the majority founded since the 1990s, creating a vibrant community of renowned producers—Cade, Outpost, Adamvs, and more. While Randy Dunn’s wines still command respect, other wineries are garnering higher ratings and significant market demand, indicating a shift in prominence.
Jeb Dunnuck, a wine critic, remarks that Howell Mountain produces some of the best Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons, a reputation reinforced by new vineyards planted since its founding. While the mountain was initially known for its old-vine Zinfandel, the demand for Cabernet has propelled its transformation.
Howell Mountain AVA, encompassing 14,000 acres with only ten percent dedicated to vineyards, experiences a diverse climate governed by altitude. While higher areas remain above the fog line, the lower regions experience different temperature variances, influencing the character of the wines produced. The soil, predominantly volcanic tufa and red clay, contributes to the richness and acidity of the grapes.
Despite some residents abstaining from alcohol due to the local Seventh-day Adventist community, there is no lingering tension between wine producers and the locals. Relationships flourish as neighbors collaborate socially and professionally.
Given America’s relatively young winemaking industry, Howell Mountain’s narrative reflects a patchwork of modern settlers, many entering the scene with no previous experience in winemaking. Following Prohibition, Howell Mountain vineyards were replanted and eventually recognized as an AVA in 1984. Over the years, Randy Dunn’s success paved the way for new entrants, enabling Howell Mountain to emerge as a significant red wine producer.
The influx of new winery owners in the 1990s saw the establishment of properties that included significant histories, such as La Jota, now under Jackson Family Wines. The ongoing evolution is marked by a blend of sophisticated winemaking and corporate stewardship, with labels like Outpost delivering high-quality wines that shine in competitions.
Despite the ongoing success, expansion remains rare, with recent bids for new wineries facing opposition due to zoning laws prioritizing environmental protection. The emphasis is on maintaining the current landscape rather than pushing for rapid development, with the prevailing community spirit allowing for collaboration among producers.
As the new generation of Howell Mountain winegrowers continues to thrive amidst a legacy of excellence, they aim to maintain their community ties and uphold the rich heritage that defines Howell Mountain’s identity in the wine world.