Exploring Therianthropy Wines: Niagara’s Rising Garagiste Collective (Updated October 2024)

By | 25 October 2024

Therianthropy embodies the mythical concept of shapeshifting, akin to transforming nature into wine. Launched in late 2019 in Creemore Hills, Niagara, Ontario, Therianthropy Wines is a unique collaborative garagiste initiative headed by winemaker David Eiberg. This team of seasoned wine professionals selects grapes from sustainably and organically cultivated vineyards across Ontario to create an exciting array of low-intervention wines. Each fermentation process is natural, with no fining or filtration used, and they incorporate minimal to no sulphur additions. Additionally, they seal their bottles with eco-friendly plant-based composite corks and finish with organic beeswax buttons. 

The distinctive wines each possess their unique half human / half animal persona, complete with detailed profiles and personalities available on the Therianthropy website. Their delightful labels, a signature of Michel Tolmer’s design, are easily recognized by natural wine enthusiasts. The project has swiftly gained a reputation for its curated selection of cool-climate, single vineyard wines, adapting each year according to vintage conditions and contractual agreements. 

Comments by Treve Ring (TR) and Jamie Goode (JG)

Therianthropy Therianthropy Claire de Lune Riesling Jenkins Vineyard 2020 Four Mile Creek, Niagara, Canada
12.4% alcohol. Wild ferment, unfiltered, unfined. This wine is vibrant and intense, showcasing splendid crystalline citrus flavors alongside hints of lemon, wax, fine spices, and honey. It is powerful, textured, and layered, featuring a marine edge of seaweed and an intriguing touch of saltiness. Rating: 94/100 (JG)

Therianthropy Ruby Wolf Pinot Noir Bock Vineyard 2021 St David’s Bench, Niagara, Canada
12% alcohol. This wine boasts intense aromas with a hint of uplift, showcasing sweet warm herbs, red cherries, and a hint of apple. The taste features a sweet acid structure paired with enticing raspberry and cherry flavors. It’s quite welcoming, exhibiting a natural character in a positive sense, along with exceptional drinkability and nuances of herbs, fine spices, and red cherries. 93/100 (JG)

Therianthropy Le Maillot Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Niagara Peninsula, Canada
12.6% alcohol. Comprised of 80% WW vineyard and 20% Bock vineyard. This wild ferment wine is unfiltered and unfined. Its light hue reveals vibrant aromas featuring floral red cherry notes complemented by chalk and wax hints. The taste is delicate and sophisticated, highlighted by juicy strawberry and redcurrant flavors. This infusion style wine is light, natural, and thoroughly enjoyable. 92/100 (JG)

Mouflon Partial Skins 2022 Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara, Canada
12.2% alcohol. This blend of Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, and Sauvignon Blanc showcases a slightly cloudy yellow/gold appearance. An expressive white wine, it presents a gently lifted nose with sweet citrus, apple, and table grape fruit, paired with a touch of rose petal and mandarin. On the palate, it is vibrant and bright with citrus flavors, lychee, pear, and ripe apple notes. Featuring a lovely acid backbone, this wine is both delicious and complex. 93/100 (JG)

Therianthropy Mouflon 2021 St Davids Bench, Niagara, Canada
11% alcohol. Sourced from Bock Vineyard, this wine combines Viognier, Chardonnay, and Marsanne, aged for 6 months on skins and bottled with lees. It has a cloudy yellow appearance. The structure is excellent, supporting the fresh pear, melon, and lemon fruit flavors, with hints of ripe apple. Additionally, a bright acidity and well-balanced tannins provide a refreshing grip. While not as aromatic and bold as some skin-fermented whites, it delivers delightful flavors and a pleasant mouthfeel. 93/100 (JG)

Therianthropy The Negotiant Cabernet Franc Foxcroft Wismer Vineyard 2019 Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara, Canada
13.3% alcohol. The aromas are vibrant, showcasing sweet notes of black cherry and blackberry, complemented by hints of tar and spicy gravel. This wine embodies the essence of Cabernet Franc, offering freshness and complexity, along with a touch of wild character. On the palate, it presents a grippy yet grainy texture, with sweet cherry flavors and a delightful spiciness. The bright acidity keeps everything balanced, creating a beautiful harmony between the dark fruit sweetness and the fresh, savory elements. 94/100 (JG)

Previous notes:

Therianthropy Claire de Lune Riesling 2018, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
From the renowned Foxcroft Vineyard, known for its dry farming and rich calcareous clay loams, this dry Riesling was produced via whole cluster pressing and native fermentation lasting two months. Ten percent of the grapes spent eight days on the skins to enhance texture. It underwent complete malolactic fermentation, maturing for eight months in stainless steel on fine lees without stirring before bottling without fining or filtration. The wine is dry and textured with notes of apricot fuzz, tangerine pith, and green apple, accompanied by a mineral quality that propels it across the palate. This vintage showcases some botrytis influence, adding a beautiful honeyed sheen and extra subtle savory nuances. A fantastic illustration of Ontario’s prowess in Riesling. 91/100 (TR)

Therianthropy The Negotiant Redfoot Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2020 Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara, Canada
13.3% alcohol. This wine exudes joy, characterized by its perfumed and aromatic profile of sweet cherries and plums, along with floral hints. The palate is vibrant and fruit-driven, featuring some spicy undertones, a silky mouthfeel, and lovely fruit characteristics. It displays soft tannins paired with good acidity and a fine, spicy finish, reminiscent of carbonic maceration. This fruit-forward style is beautifully balanced and filled with intriguing complexity. A truly impressive offering. 94/100 (JG)

Therianthropy Bonnie Vivant Chardonnay 2020, VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
This dry farmed Chardonnay is sourced from the Bock Vineyard at St. David’s Bench, where it was planted nine years ago in loamy clays including Tavistock red phase, Toledo loamy phase, and Toledo phase. The wine underwent a whole cluster, native fermentation, with 14% experiencing three weeks of skin contact in a concrete egg. After full malolactic fermentation, it aged for seven months on its lees without bâtonnage and was bottled without fining or filtration. The palate, lightly creamy and textured by the concrete, is highlighted by fine lemon pith and peel, while the finish is marked by flax notes and delicate white floral elements. This vintage represents a notable advancement over the inaugural 2019 Chardonnay, making it one to keep an eye on. 90/100 (TR)

Therianthropy Bonnie Vivant Chardonnay 2020 St David’s Bench, Niagara, Canada
With an alcohol content of 13.1%, this wine underwent fermentation in concrete, with 14% skin contact. It is bottled with the lees, offering a complex, mealy, and spicy profile enriched with delightful citrus fruit. The wine is layered and saline, featuring hints of apple and nut characteristics, but the main focus remains on the mineral-rich, mealy citrus fruit that captivates, leading to a fine tapering finish. Very stylish. 93/100 (JG)

Therianthropy Bonnie Vivant Chardonnay 2019, VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
This wine is also sourced from the Bock Vineyard at St. David’s Bench, where the soils consist of uncommon combinations of loamy clays, including Tavistock red phase, Toledo loamy phase, and Toledo phase. These unique soils contribute to a creamy, soft palate showcasing yellow apple, peach, light corn, and grapefruit that is beautifully held together by stainless steel, culminating in a snappy finish. 88/100 (TR)

Therianthropy Mouflon Viognier Chardonnay Marsanne 2020, VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
This orange wine is a co-fermentation of Viognier, Chardonnay, and Marsanne from the Bock Vineyard. The grapes were whole cluster and underwent native fermentation in two small eggs, with a six-month period on skins and stems. Bottled without fining or filtration, it presents a glowing peach/orange hue, emanating notes of apricot pith, clementine, and grapefruit, along with a slight palate that is positively grippy with tannins, leading to a lingering finish reminiscent of white pepper. The purity and freshness of this wine are truly lovely. 90/100 (TR)

Therianthropy Mouflon Viognier Chardonnay Marsanne Skin Fermented White 2020 St David’s Bench, Niagara, Canada
12.6% alcohol. This wine undergoes co-fermentation on skins, spending six months in a small egg ferment with both skins and stems. It presents a wonderfully aromatic bouquet featuring notes of apricot, pear, and baked apple, accompanied by subtle floral hints. On the palate, it is fresh and vibrant, showcasing delightful fruit expression, a nice grippy texture, and balanced acidity. It’s refreshingly clean with a tart and tannic finish, well-balanced throughout. 93/100 (JG)

Therianthropy Mouflon Viognier Riesling 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
This wine marks their inaugural venture into orange wine, proving to be a worthwhile experiment. Sourced from St. David’s Bench and Twenty Mile Bench, it is a blend of co-fermented Viognier, Riesling, and Marsanne, which was naturally fermented in an egg and left on skins and stems for five months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it features a recyclable plant-based cork sealed with a beeswax button. This hazy orange wine is intense and grippy with flavors of astringent apricot, bergamot, and peach blossom on a taut palate. The bitterness of orange and a mouthwatering salinity characterize its finish, making it a delightful addition to a unique collection of wines. 89/100 (TR)

Therianthropy David Eagle Gamay 2020, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Originating from Four Mile Creek’s Willms’ vineyard, this wine is crafted from 34-year-old vines positioned in calcareous clay loams. It is native fermented with 60% whole cluster in Bourgogne concrete eggs for seven months and bottled without fining or filtration. The result is a bright and juicy profile featuring crunchy plum, boysenberry, and purple floral notes, with a balsamic touch and fine, soft tannins leading to a tart, snappy saline finish. This wine is best served lightly chilled. #GoGamayGo! 90/100 (TR)

Therianthropy David Eagle Gamay Wilms Vineyard 2020 Four Mile Creek, Niagara, Canada
12.2% alcohol. This wine is produced from 34-year-old vines rooted in calcareous clay loams, utilizing 60% whole cluster in wild fermentation, aged for seven months in a concrete egg. It is lively, bright, and intensely primary, featuring juicy cherry and raspberry flavors with spicy nuances and subtle green hints. With excellent complexity and structured tannins and acidity, it delivers character and intensity, with a slight hint of volatility that does not detract from the overall experience. 93/100 (JG)

Therianthropy The Negotiant Cabernet Franc 2020, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Originating from the organically cultivated Redfoot Vineyard in Lincoln Lakeshore, this Cabernet Franc is nurtured in the region’s fertile red soils, planted 18 years ago. It underwent native fermentation with 75% whole cluster over three weeks, followed by a seven-month rest in Bourgogne concrete eggs, before being bottled without fining or filtration. The wine offers an enticing mix of purple florals, cassis, savory herbal notes, and wild blackberry, showcasing a juicy, fruity, and youthful character with a carbonic lift. The tannins are soft and sticky, with a crunchy acidity that leads to a delicately floral finish enriched with saline touches. This is a pleasant and harmonious Franc that is best enjoyed now, slightly chilled. 90/100 (TR)

Therianthropy The Negotiant Cabernet Franc 2018, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
From 21-year-old vines situated on the dry-farmed Foxcroft Vineyard on Twenty Mile Bench, which features rich calcareous clay loams, this wine made use of 80% stems and 80% whole cluster during the native fermentation. After resting for 18 months in neutral barriques, it was bottled unfined and unfiltered. The result is an enticing blend of fleshy plums, fragrant dark raspberries, and vibrant violets, finished with a distinctive green herbal edge held together by fine tannins. The bright acidity carries the wine to a spiced finish, embodying a beautiful example of Niagara Franc. 91/100 (TR)

Therianthropy Le Maillot Cabernet Franc 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
One of two Cabernet Francs launched by Therianthropy in 2020, Le Maillot is crafted in a lighter, easily drinkable, Loire-style that suits the Twenty Mile Bench region perfectly. Sourced from the calcareous-limestone gravels of Foxcroft Vineyard, these 22-year-old vines were dry-farmed, with 60% whole cluster utilized and native fermentation occurring in stainless steel, where it aged for four months prior to bottling unfined and unfiltered. This wine presents a bright cherry color, beginning with a wave of reduction before revealing wild raspberry, cherry, earthy green notes, and a touch of pink pepper. The soft, slightly sticky tannins and bright acidity elevate this medium-bodied red to a spiced finish, ready to be chilled and enjoyed. 89/100 (TR)

Therianthropy Hunter’s Moon Cabernet Franc 2018, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Sourced from the esteemed Foxcroft Wismer Vineyard on Twenty Mile Bench, the 21-year-old Cab Franc vines thrive in calcareous clay loams. Utilizing 80% whole cluster, it underwent native fermentation over three weeks before maturing for 18 months in 225L barriques, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. The medium-bodied palate reveals fragrant dusky violets, wild blackberry, and black plum, all framed by firm, fine tannins and bright, crunchy acidity. The wine is centered around a pure plum core, the finish lingering with a hint of pink peppercorn, a touch of balsamic, and a nod to the enchanting violet notes. It is drinking beautifully now, yet still has time to evolve. 91/100 (TR)

Therianthropy Hunter’s Moon Cabernet Franc Foxcroft Wismer Vineyard 2018 Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara, Canada
13.4% alcohol. This wine is exceptional. It showcases an impressive concentration of black cherries and blackberry flavors, complemented by hints of gravelly and chalky notes beneath the sweet fruit. This is the essence of Cabernet Franc, boasting solid structure, focus, and remarkable balance. It is a serious wine that is drinking beautifully at the moment. Despite the presence of considerable tannin, the fruit effectively integrates with it. 94/100 (JG)

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