Beyond the well-known landscape of exquisite wines, an unexpected opportunity is surfacing in an unlikely location.
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With the launch of its initial wines—the first ever produced in the Himalayan region—the Bhutan Wine Company is emblematic of a groundbreaking initiative. Chris Howard explores the origins of this exceptional endeavor and its implications for the wine industry and sustainability.
“This atmosphere is felt universally—in politics, society, and philosophy. We inhabit what the Greeks referred to as the καιρóς (kairos) – the opportune moment – for a ‘transformation of the gods,’ meaning a shift in fundamental ideals and symbols.”—C. G. Jung, Present and Future (1958)
Beyond the well-known landscape of fine wine, an exciting new chapter is unfolding in an unexpected location: the Kingdom of Bhutan. This Himalayan nation, famous for its Gross National Happiness initiative and untouched natural beauty, has embarked on a journey that challenges conventional perceptions of the wine industry.
The debut release of the Bhutan Wine Company’s first wines this October signifies a momentous occasion in the worldwide narrative of wine, further complicating the traditional Old World/New World distinction. More than just the introduction of a new label, Bhutan’s rise as a wine-producing nation acts as a spark for redefining the story of wine amidst the current era of globalization and climate change.
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This article will delve into the distinctive terroir of Bhutan, outline the fortuitous beginnings of its wine industry, and scrutinize the hurdles and possibilities of growing both vines and a wine culture in this Buddhist kingdom. While it’s premature to evaluate the wines themselves, if we embrace Hugh Johnson’s description of fine wine as “wine worth talking about,” Bhutan has already secured its place in the dialogue.
Although a map can only hint at the reality of a place, let’s orient ourselves. Nestled in the Eastern Himalayas between China and India, Bhutan is a compact, landlocked kingdom covering around 38,000 km2 (14,700 m2), making it slightly smaller than Switzerland. Locally referred to as “Druk Yul” or “Land of the Thunder Dragon,” this name is inspired by the mythical fire-breathing dragons that soar from its majestic snow-covered peaks. Bhutan is renowned for its stunning landscapes that transition from lush subtropical plains to soaring mountains and deep winding valleys.
The country’s unique geography is shaped by the Himalayas, which create diverse climate zones that shift with altitude—ranging from subtropical in the southern regions to temperate highlands and nearly polar conditions in the north. Bhutan’s seclusion, marked by a lack of roads leading out of the kingdom until the 1960s and limited air access introduced only in more recent decades, has enabled it to maintain its distinct way of life while engaging with the forces of globalization at its own pace.
Bhutan is distinguished not just by its natural beauty but also by its rich cultural and political uniqueness. As the only country in the world practicing Vajrayana Buddhism, its culture is profoundly influenced by this tradition that focuses on tantric rituals, visualization, and various practices aimed at achieving enlightenment more swiftly. This spiritual ethos is integrated into the very fabric of Bhutanese society, impacting everything from everyday activities to governmental policies.
In terms of governance, Bhutan shifted from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy in 2008. Its political framework is guided by the principles of Gross National Happiness (GNH). GNH is more than a catchy phrase or a simple gauge of personal contentment; it is a thorough policy framework that informs all governmental choices. If a proposed initiative does not contribute to the overall happiness of the citizens, Bhutan forgoes it.
The GNH policy includes nine key areas: psychological well-being, health, education, time use, cultural diversity and resilience, good governance, community vitality, ecological diversity and resilience, and living standards. This comprehensive approach ensures that development and policy choices take into account their effects on both the population’s overall well-being and the environment. As a result, the choice to venture into the wine industry was made with careful consideration.
Bhutan’s dedication to environmental preservation is highlighted by its unique position as the world’s first and only carbon-negative country. This exceptional accomplishment is the outcome of various initiatives and policies. Bhutan’s constitution requires that at least 60% of the nation remains forested indefinitely; presently, forests account for roughly 71% of the land area.
The country produces clean hydroelectric energy, a significant portion of which is exported to neighboring India, effectively offsetting millions of tons of carbon dioxide emissions each year. In addition, Bhutan has prohibited export logging and is on a path to become the world’s first fully organic nation. These progressive measures have not only eliminated Bhutan’s carbon footprint but have also enhanced its biodiversity.
With around 95% of its population (nearly 800,000 people) engaged in traditional agriculture, Bhutan enjoys a profound relationship with its land. Though the Bhutanese are acclaimed farmers, their geographic isolation and the absence of connections to the historic Silk Road trade routes meant that the first grape vines were not planted until 2019.
What prompted Bhutan, a nation with no previous history in wine production, to suddenly make a mark in the world of wine? The answer lies in the establishment of the Bhutan Wine Company, born from a bold partnership between the Kingdom of Bhutan and American entrepreneurs Michael Juergens and Ann Cross.
The inception of this venture can be traced back to Cross’s deep-rooted interest in Bhutan, which inspired the couple to visit the country in 2017. Juergens, who is a wine business consultant and a candidate for the title of Master of Wine, quickly saw the unexploited viticultural promise that Bhutan harbored.
During a dinner with officials from the government, Juergens jokingly inquired about the lack of vineyards in Bhutan, a question that unexpectedly triggered a series of events that would lead to the formation of the company. Upon his return to the United States, he crafted a white paper that outlined an ambitious vision for a premium, small-scale wine industry that would resonate with Bhutan’s Gross National Happiness (GNH) philosophy.
His initial outreach was met with little response, but on his next trip, he discovered a newfound excitement surrounding his proposal. When questioned about his belief in Bhutan’s capabilities as a wine-producing region, he passionately declared, “Without a doubt, I sincerely believe this place could evolve into the next significant wine region in the world for the next 500 to a thousand years.”
The government of Bhutan extended an invitation to Juergens, asking him to take the lead on a project that he had not anticipated but was eager to embrace. In line with Bhutanese regulations, foreign enterprises must collaborate with local partners, prompting the Bhutan Wine Company to appoint Karma Choeda, a former diplomat, as their Chief Operating Officer, along with Pema Wangchuk as the vineyard manager.
Reflecting on this unexpected journey, Juergens states, “Starting a winery is something anyone can do, but taking on a venture as unconventional as this is far more captivating.” This adventurous spirit, along with a fortunate convergence of interests, has paved the way for what could evolve into one of the most extraordinary wine regions globally.
What about the terroir, that elusive essence we seek in wine? In Bhutan, this exploration is set against a stunning backdrop, with vineyards spanning altitudes from 150 to 2,700 meters (490 to 8,900 feet) above sea level. This range of elevations fosters a complex tapestry of microclimates and growing conditions, each imbuing the grapes with distinct characteristics. The soil types further contribute to this complexity, varying from alluvial sands found in the river valleys to fertile red clay and loam on the slopes.
With no historical background in cultivating Vitis vinifera, Bhutan’s wine-growing journey is characterized by innovation and flexibility. Currently, sixteen grape varieties are being tested across nine different sites, encompassing around 80 hectares (200 acres). The red varieties include Syrah, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Sangiovese, and Tempranillo. The white varieties comprise Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Vidal, and Traminette. The approach involves planting a variety of grapes in each vineyard and amplifying those that flourish.
The varied terroir and elevation differences contribute to an extended growing season, with harvest times ranging from June to October. In the subtropical southern regions, a distinctive method entails cultivating during winter and harvesting in early spring, effectively avoiding the summer monsoon. This strategy extends the wine production period for the company to between eight and ten months, providing a notable advantage over conventional wine regions that are limited by shorter harvest seasons.
Bhutan’s unspoiled nature plays a crucial role in its unique terroir. The country’s ecological focus guarantees clean water supplies, minimal pollution levels, and rich biodiversity. In light of human-induced climate change, Bhutan’s elevated terroir presents several natural benefits. As increasing temperatures endanger numerous conventional wine areas, Bhutan’s mountainous landscapes serve as a buffer. The cooler climate at higher altitudes facilitates longer ripening periods, producing wines that are rich in aromas, possess higher acidity, and contain enhanced polyphenols. These factors result in wines that naturally have lower alcohol content and deliver more intense flavors, as the grapes are smaller with thicker skins. Additionally, the high-altitude setting diminishes the risk of diseases, naturally supporting Bhutan’s commitment to organic agriculture.
While high-altitude grape growing has been successful in locales like Alto Adige in Italy and Uco Valley in Argentina, Bhutan’s heights reach even higher. As the highest point on Earth, the Himalayas symbolize the ultimate frontier for high-altitude viticulture. Bhutan’s efforts in winemaking not only promise distinct wines but also provide insights into the future of climate-resilient viticulture. Although Bhutan offers a blank canvas, venturing into an entirely new winemaking region carries its own set of challenges.
One significant obstacle is training vineyard and winery workers who have no previous experience in viticulture. For instance, educating them about the apparently paradoxical practice of reducing grape yields to improve wine quality is a slow process, as local practices typically emphasize maximizing crop output. However, the company’s Californian winemaker, Matt Brain, observes that these challenges are being effectively tackled thanks to the “intelligence, passion, and work ethic” of the Bhutanese individuals participating in the project. Other hurdles include supply chain difficulties, as equipment and supplies for wineries are not as accessible as they are in more developed wine regions.
The wildlife presents perhaps the most distinctive challenge in Bhutan’s wine journey. “We’re not concerned about typical vineyard ailments, such as red blotch or phylloxera,” shares Juergens, “but rather about monkeys and cobras!” Bhutan is home to a variety of dangerous creatures, including king cobras, vipers, and kraits, which have been spotted in the vineyards. Consequently, having protocols for anti-venom becomes a critical component of health and safety. Tigers, Asian elephants, and leopards also pose threats that are not covered in standard viticulture literature. Given Bhutan’s Buddhist ethos of ahimsa, or “do no harm,” alongside its respect for biodiversity, creative solutions become essential. While electric fences can deter certain wildlife, what solutions exist for vineyards situated in remote, mountainous areas?
Developing a wine culture takes time, much like nurturing the terroir itself. The Bhutanese have enjoyed ara, a traditional fermented drink made from rice, buckwheat, or barley, which helps pave the way to wine appreciation. Many individuals in Bhutan first encounter wine while studying abroad, which has sparked local enthusiasm for this emerging initiative. To further cultivate this new wine culture, Karma Choeda and his dedicated team, after thorough training at 67 Pall Mall in Singapore, have established a wine bar in Thimphu, the capital, which also functions as an educational space.
For Bhutan, embracing the wine industry symbolizes more than just introducing a new product; it represents a source of national pride and cultural identity. Choeda articulates this sentiment well: “Growing grapes and producing wine in Bhutan will undoubtedly instill a sense of pride among the Bhutanese people, capturing and expressing our essence and identity in a bottle.”
As Bhutan embarks on its developing wine adventure, it narrates a story that intertwines tradition with modernity, spirituality with business, and local heritage with global influence. The obstacles are significant—from training a skilled labor force in viticulture to overcoming the intricacies of high-altitude grape growing while coexisting peacefully with leopards and cobras. Yet, the potential outcomes are equally promising. Bhutan’s commitment to winegrowing, anchored in its values of Gross National Happiness and environmental consciousness, might well serve as an exemplary model for sustainable viticulture amidst the challenges posed by climate change.
Bhutan’s foray into the realm of wine signifies much more than a mere addition to the global wine landscape. It embodies a significant evolution in our understanding and appreciation of wine-producing regions, redefining conventional standards and pushing the limits of what is achievable in grape cultivation. As the initial bottles of Bhutanese wine are introduced to the market, they encapsulate not only the pure flavors and characteristics of the Himalayan terroir but also narrate the tale of a profoundly wise nation’s ambitious aspirations. This venture into winemaking reflects the spirit of our times and highlights an essential transformation in our connection to the natural cycles and intricate interrelations of life on Earth.