The quality of the house’s latest Vintage release reflects the expertise of its thoughtful and versatile winemaking team.
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Odilon de Varine is a profound thinker; his methodology at Gosset occasionally leans towards the unconventional, yet at times aligns with mainstream practices, resulting in an inspiring collection of wines. The foundations of the Grande Réserve and the Grand Millésime are particularly enhanced by the Celebris series and the De Minima family, the latter being presented pragmatically in acknowledgment of the complex magic inherent in cellar-based lees-aging.
The most recent addition to this esteemed Vintage lineage spotlights 2016, a year in Champagne that neither raises immediate concerns (like 2017) nor evokes overwhelming excitement (like 2019). 2016 is part of a succession of early harvests characterized by extreme and, for lack of a better term, unpredictable conditions, featuring frost and mildew at the start of the season, followed by drought and sunburn during the sweltering summer days. The harvest in late August yielded slightly below average, with a crop showing less potential alcohol compared to the balmy 2015, but also exhibiting a bit more acidity. It may be riper than 2014, but not as much as many more recent vintages influenced by climate change. Initial signs suggest a greater success with Pinot Noir over Chardonnay.
It might come as a surprise to discover that the 2016 Gosset marks a notable resurgence of white grape varieties. In 2015, Pinot Noir accounted for 59% of the blend; however, in 2016, it returned to a more typical 39%. What accounts for this shift? Cellar master Gabrielle Malagu shares that this adaptability is central to the Gosset philosophy, which places equal importance on the yeast-aging process as well as vineyard management. Gosset operates as a medium-sized house with a mix of owned and contracted vineyards throughout the region. Both Odilon and Gabrielle are averse to fixed recipes or favoritism towards specific (even grand cru) villages; each Vintage wine is treated like a blank canvas, with components meticulously blended based on their unique contributions to the final product. It’s a true meritocracy of grapes, with no room for complacency. Thus, in 2015, the blend included contributions from villages as varied as Trépail and Villers-Marmery, located in the Montagne, to Noé-les-Mallets in the Côte des Bar, enhancing the Pinot Noir component.
In 2016, lesser-known villages play a pivotal role once again. I inquire with Gabrielle about three of these villages. Chamery was included for its “youthful austerity” in its Pinot varieties; Passy contributed Chardonnay that imbues the wine with “freshness and tension of flint, aromas resembling the grapes themselves”; meanwhile, the Chardonnays from Pierry add essential “sunny and honeyed” notes to the blend. Conversations like these provide an intriguing glimpse into the assemblage process, which may seem to be tightly confined by the vintage but actually unfolds a myriad of possibilities—especially when there are no strict requirements regarding the origin of the fruit.
Both the particular vintage and the identity of the house support this method. Odilon, known for his vibrant descriptions, articulates the wine’s essence as “the 2016 harvest captured through the Gosset perspective.” This distinct viewpoint, as ever, sharpens its focus by avoiding malolactic fermentation and the use of oak. The emphasis is solely on purity and ripeness. Gabrielle, when asked about dosage, revisits the vineyards, highlighting the importance of the harvesting date; the determined dosage for this cuvée seems to be settled at approximately 4g/l (“Neither a recipe nor an injunction,” according to Odilon), as sugar is crucial for structure but must not disrupt the wine’s innate harmony, which has already taken years to develop. He further notes that this level is likely to be maintained for the warmer upcoming vintages, such as 2018 or 2020. Managing phenolic ripeness in the vineyards is vital, and it’s essential to control the canopies in these warmer periods to ensure that sugar levels do not exceed the latent structural capacity of the grapes.
Odilon aims to create a balance between “extreme freshness” and “complex vinosity.” The challenge lies in how to achieve one without compromising the other. As long as this question remains open, with thoughtful winemakers like Odilon and Gabrielle offering insights, there is reassurance. Gosset has earned a reputation for its enlightening responses—grounded in a rich legacy that dates back to 1584!
2016 Gosset Grand Millésime
(61% Chardonnay, 39% Pinot Noir; dosage 4g/l; disgorged March 2024)
This wine presents a nacreous and silvery appearance, shimmering with liveliness and unveiling its aroma gradually. It envelops the senses with spring flowers, plums, and various orchard fruits, including almond, mandarin, and red fruit, despite the dominant presence of Chardonnay. The palate reveals soft cherry and quince, showcasing a tense yet lively character—vinous, yet not heavy. Notes of verbena and a subtle hint of iodine emerge towards the finish, accompanied by a modest phenolic grip. Although the autolytic notes are restrained at this stage, the wine offers a disciplined finale with hints of lively and robust development. A slight fennel bitterness graces the aftertaste, contributing grip and depth, adding a contrasting element to an otherwise vibrantly energetic profile. | 93