A celebration of the unique characteristics of terroir from northern Champagne.
Essi Avellan MW presents a tasting of Montagne de Reims Chardonnay enjoyed with fellow tasters Simon Field MW and Anthony Rose, which illuminated the distinctive blanc de blancs from the northern segment of the region, showcasing them in darker yet just as thrilling hues of pale.
The tightly woven and refined blanc de blancs from the Côte des Blancs are world-renowned, however, Champagne boasts much more in terms of Chardonnay. There are several lesser-known subregions that concentrate heavily on this grape, such as Vitryat (98%), Montgueux (90%), and the Sézannais (75%). Although the Montagne de Reims is famous for its powerful Pinot Noirs, only 26% of the vineyard area is allocated to Chardonnay; nevertheless, its predominantly chalky soils hold significant promise for the grape. “Ils pinotent,” the locals declare, referring to the richer, fruitier style of Chardonnays that they believe possess some traits of Pinot Noir.
In the past, it was challenging to define the essence of Montagne de Reims blanc de blancs, as these wines were typically incorporated into larger, multi-regional blends. However, with the growing trend of site-specific Champagnes, we now have the opportunity to explore the Chardonnays from this remarkable region.
Montagne de Reims is located around the city of Reims, primarily to its south and west. It can be further divided into four distinct subregions: Grande Montagne de Reims, Vesle and Ardre, Massif de St-Thierry, and Monts de Berru. The most renowned area is the Grande Montagne, where vineyards thrive on the northern, eastern, and southern slopes of the hill, which is capped with forests. This region is home to all nine grand cru villages of Montagne de Reims. The predominant chalky soils, along with the varying aspects of the vineyards, play a crucial role in the wines’ styles. For instance, Bouzy, which faces south and consists of 13% Chardonnay, produces wines with exceptional richness. In contrast, the more southeast-facing Ambonnay, with 19% Chardonnay, offers added finesse alongside its fruity intensity. Meanwhile, the cooler northern slopes contribute a distinctive linear quality to the wines from the grand cru villages of Verzy, Verzenay, and Mailly-Champagne. In the heart of Pinot Noir territory, the east-facing premier cru villages of Villers-Marmery (98%) and Trépail (93%) prioritize Chardonnay due to their advantageous positioning and chalky soils.
The expansive Vesle and Ardre Valleys also encompass the Petite Montagne, where premier cru villages such as Écueil and Sacy are located. The soils here present a diverse mixture of sand, clay, and limestone, with Chardonnay making up only 14% of the plantings, while Meunier takes the lead. To the northwest of Reims lies the historically significant Massif de St-Thierry, which has seen its vineyards on predominantly sandy soils shrink to approximately 1,000 hectares (2,500 acres), with just 18% cultivated with Chardonnay. Finally, the Monts de Berru region, located west of Reims, showcases a significant concentration of Chardonnay (92%), a result of the high chalk content found in the soil.
We focused our tasting on the Union des Maisons de Champagne classification of Montagne de Reims, intentionally omitting the Grande Vallée villages like Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, which some consider part of Montagne. Most of the selections were from grower domaines, as there is a scarcity of Montagne de Reims-specific blanc de blancs produced by major houses. Leclerc Briant was the only house presence, contributing a single-vineyard cuvée from its Villers-Allerand clos. A significant portion of the wines represented originated from individual plots, showcasing 12 different sites. We also sampled single-village cuvées from Jean Vesselle, François Secondé, and A Margaine, alongside a dual-village cuvée from Penet-Chardonnet. No generalized Montagne de Reims blends were part of the selection.
We were pleasantly surprised by the overall quality of the wines, evident in the impressive average score of 92. Among all the Champagne tastings I’ve participated in for The World of Fine Wine, this one stood out for achieving strong consensus. The carefully curated selection of invited producers likely contributed to the high success rate. Furthermore, Chardonnays are generally less susceptible to oxidation compared to red varietals from Champagne, a characteristic that could lead to differing opinions. Chardonnay also enjoys oak, and many cuvées benefited from the expert use of barrels to enhance complexity.
The tasting ultimately celebrated terroir-focused Champagnes. Not surprisingly, the grand cru terroirs shone, with cuvées from Ambonnay (Marguet Le Parc) and Bouzy (Pierre Paillard Les Mottelettes) landing in the top four. However, it wasn’t solely about grands crus; Hugues Godmé Les Alouettes St Bets from premier cru Villers-Marmery, along with Chartogne-Taillet Chemin de Reims from the Autre Cru of Merfy, performed exceptionally well too. The top four wines hailed from two outstanding Champagne vintages: the intense yet refined 2019 and the fruit-forward, generous 2012. Tasting a few more mature Champagnes in the lineup offered intriguing insights. Both Pierre Paillard Les Mottelettes 2012 and Hugues Godmé Les Alouettes St Bets 2012 were splendid, nearing their peak, which showcased the aging potential of quality Montagne de Reims Chardonnays.
Many cuvées presented represented the pinnacle of their producers’ ranges, hence their premium pricing. Vilmart Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies exemplifies the high end of the spectrum, commanding €250. For those seeking value, the Non-Vintage cuvées Penet-Chardonnet Terroir & Sens Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (approximately €65) and A Margaine L’Extra-Brut NV (€40) would serve as excellent choices.
So, what about the flavor profile? There is a noticeable distinction from the Côte des Blancs, as many of the wines exhibited a fuller body and a richer texture. The acidity was less pronounced, and the fruitiness leaned more toward a ripeness that approached exoticism, contrasting sharply with the traditional Côte des Blancs style. However, there were remarkable exceptions, particularly from north-facing terroirs, such as Vilmart Les Blanches Voies and the two Penet-Chardonnets, which displayed a refreshing acidity and saline quality, enhanced by their blocked malolactic fermentations.
It was as if the terroir was speaking, but the winemaker’s influence was also quite prominent, crafting a distinctive character for these exquisite Montagne de Reims Chardonnays that are definitely worth pursuing.
Wines categorized by subregion/village
Grande Montagne de Reims
Ambonnay Grand Cru
Marguet Les Crayères
Marguet Le Parc
Eric Rodez Blanc de Blancs 36
Eric Rodez Les Genettes Chardonnay
Bouzy Grand Cru
Pierre Paillard Les Mottelettes
Jean Vesselle Pur B3 Blanc de Blancs
Rilly-la-Montagne Premier Cru
Champagne Vilmart et Cie Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies
Sillery Grand Cru
François Secondé Sillery Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
Verzy Grand Cru
Penet-Chardonnet Les Blanches Voies
Villers-Allerand Premier Cru
Leclerc Briant Le Clos des Trois Clochers
Villers-Marmery Premier Cru
Hugues Godmé Les Alouettes St Bets
A Margaine L’Extra-Brut NV
Vesle & Ardre
Ecueil Premier Cru
Nicolas Maillart Chaillots Gillis
Massif de St-Thierry
Merfy
Chartogne-Taillet Chemin de Reims
St-Thierry
Chartogne-Taillet Les Grands Champs
* One of the wines sampled consisted of 86% Chardonnay (A Margaine Le Brut), and there were two others that originated outside the Montagne de Reims region (Chartogne-Taillet Hors Série Avize Grand Cru Côte des Blancs and Maurice Choppin Epinette de Champagne Chardonnay Damery Vallée de la Marne). These were graciously provided by the producers who submitted additional qualifying wines and have therefore been included for comparison.
Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Chemin de Reims Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2019 (12.5% ABV) | 93
EA | This Champagne showcases a pale lemon hue and presents a meticulously crafted, intricate nose lightly adorned with oak. The bouquet is vibrant, featuring notes of vanilla, lemon sherbet, cotton candy, pear, and white apricot. On the palate, it’s lively yet delicate, maintaining an airy and refined quality. The handling of oak is subtle, avoiding any oxidative characteristics, resulting in a beautiful and gentle Champagne that culminates in a refreshing finish. Ideal for enjoyment from 2024 to 2030. | 94
SF | Exhibiting a soft straw color with a lively and persistent effervescence, this Champagne offers a complex nose rich in hazelnut, stone fruit, tobacco, and quince. The palate mirrors this complexity, balancing youthful exuberance with a well-integrated structure. The yeasty texture and ripe flavors suggest a high-quality Chardonnay source, hinting at great potential. | 93
AR | This pale golden Chardonnay presents a somewhat muted aroma, demanding a closer inspection to detect some underlying leesy hints. It features a fine mousse that engages the palate, revealing rich flavors of orchard apples combined with zesty citrus acidity. The Champagne achieves a harmonious balance with its double textural quality—first, the soft bubbles and then a light bitterness that enhances the final experience, making it a delightful choice for many. Best enjoyed from 2024 to 2032. | 92
Champagne Hugues Godmé Les Alouettes St Bets Brut Nature 2012 (12.5% ABV) | 93
EA | The nose reveals an elegant layering, complemented by a delightful toasty aroma that enhances the pristine fruitiness. There is a generous and clean fruit character, showcasing sweet and ripe notes. The palate is airy and bursting with flavor, providing a delectable and supple experience. The mousse is pleasantly soft, leading to a long, flavorful finish rich in upfront fruit. This wine has aged gracefully, with its evolution marking it as an exceedingly enjoyable choice. Best enjoyed from 2024 to 2031. | 93
SF | Displaying a light hue, the wine presents an enticing and nuanced aromatic profile that is both leafy and evolved, with rich and plush characteristics. Notes of late-season apples, tobacco, baking soda, and pepper create a captivating grip. The phenols are well-balanced, harmonizing beautifully with the whole. This wine offers a fascinating linear style, promising additional complexity to unfold. | 92
AR | In mid-gold, the wine appears vibrant and fresh, with an aroma that is rich and savory, showcasing equal parts fruit and nuttiness. Tasting this wine is a joyful experience, as secondary, developed characters emerge on the palate, revealing a ripeness that gradually shifts towards a savory profile. As the bubbles gently dissolve, this Champagne transforms into a complex and full-flavored dry white Chardonnay, perfect for food pairing. Recommended for enjoyment between 2024 and 2029. | 93
Champagne Marguet Le Parc Grand Cru 2019 (13% ABV; Biodynamic Demeter) |93
EA | Showing a developing, lemony hue complemented by a lasting frothy edge. The aroma is sweet with hints of toffee and vanilla intertwined with candied fruit notes. It presents a sun-kissed character with traces of bitter almond and wood. The palate offers a slightly lactic experience, broad and finely textured, concluding with a drying sensation that contrasts with the initial sweetness detected in the nose. Best enjoyed from 2024 to 2029. | 91
SF | Exhibiting a pale straw color reminiscent of an early-season Constable watercolor and a gentle effervescence. The nose is more assertive, revealing creamy notes of vanillin alongside peach, red apples, and pine nut; it is expressive and confident, with hints of intrigue. The palate mirrors this confidence—strident, vibrant, and youthful, bursting forth with a playful spirit, evoking a need for affection that’s hard to resist, especially for those who appreciate their blanc de blancs to be rich, effusive, generous, and definitive. | 93
AR | Displaying a mid-gold color, this 2019 vintage is already well-developed with aromas of rich toffee-apple and farm butter, layered with a degree of leesy complexity. The first sip reveals an exceptionally lively mousse that spreads across the palate, delivering delightful bites of rich toffee and popcorn sweetness intertwined with ripe stone fruit flavors, all balanced by a refreshing, zesty citrus acidity that enhances the overall tasting experience. Best from 2024 to 2032. | 94
Champagne Pierre Paillard Bouzy Grand Cru Les Mottelettes Extra-Brut 2012 (12.5% ABV) |93
EA | The champagne displays a developing, bright lemon hue. Its rich aroma offers numerous aging indicators with commendably minimal oxidation. The nose features charred and yeast-soaked pastry, along with nutty nuances that complement the sweet fruit blend. Over time, notes of apple, roasted pineapple, and confectionery emerge. The palate is generous, smooth, and textured, showcasing a long, juicy finish. Overall, it’s clean with an abundance of tropical sweetness. It has the potential to age beautifully, reaching its peak around 2024-2029, but there’s no rush as its development has been positive thus far. | 94
SF | Exhibiting a canvas-like hue, the aroma is evolved featuring quince, verbena, and linden, along with subtle hints of woodsmoke, plum, and kerosene. There are also undertones of umami, charcuterie, yeast, and bitter almonds. The palate is weighty, structured, and concentrated, leading to a finely tapered finish filled with emerging potential. This champagne is long-lasting and offers a wealth of promise still ahead. | 95
AR | Displaying a mid-gold color, this champagne reveals a significant ripeness along with honeyed notes that invite you in, especially if you appreciate its mature character despite its age of 12 years. It embodies a sense of grace, suggesting its finest days may have passed, yet it holds onto a vibrant acidity that delivers a dry, food-friendly finish. Its message is clear: “Don’t underestimate me. I’m still resilient. Even if I appear to have reached my peak, appearances can be misleading.” Expected to flourish from 2024 to 2026. | 90
Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Hors Série Avize Grand Cru Extra-Brut 2016 (12.5% ABV) |92
EA | The wine exhibits a pale lemon hue. Its generous and ripe aroma reveals notes of apple, peach compote, acacia, and a subtle hint of spice. On the palate, it’s sharply acidic with a zesty lemon twist complemented by earthy, mineral undertones. While slightly unique in its character, it remains tangy and lively, displaying good fruit intensity. Expected best drinking period: 2024–2030. | 92
SF | This champagne presents a straw-like hue and modest fizz. The nose reveals aromas of grape skins, rye bread, and spring flowers, alongside hints of soapstone and poached pear. It is dry, showcasing a white pepper and flint-like profile, with a focus on young stone fruit charm and minimal reserve wine. The wine is elegant and pure, with refined characteristics. | 91
AR | Displaying a pale gold color, this champagne hails from Avize [in the Côte des Blancs], distinguishing it from the [Montagne de Reims] region. It is undoubtedly impressive. The aroma is super-fresh with a complex bouquet of leesy notes attributed to autolysis in the most favorable light; the fruit is wonderfully ripe and melt-in-your-mouth, while a crisp citrusy edge adds freshness and balance to this well-made blanc de blancs. Optimal drinking window: 2024–2032. | 93