Nestled in the historic Champagne village of Aÿ, Champagne Bollinger is one of the region’s most distinguished names. Founded in 1829, the family-owned house is gearing up for its 200th anniversary, but there are surprising aspects that even seasoned enthusiasts might not know.
Recently, I had the pleasure of visiting during the launch of Bollinger’s prestigious cuvée, La Grande Année 2018, where I uncovered five intriguing facts about this iconic Champagne house.
1. Never-ending Underground Cellars
Beneath the tranquil Aÿ streets lies a sprawling six kilometers of cellars where bottles mature in a naturally cool environment. After descending 48 steps, visitors enter a labyrinth of tunnels laden with countless rows of resting bottles, easily leading one to feel lost in the rich history contained within.
2. The House Still Has a Human Riddler
Unlike many Champagne houses that have switched to automated riddling processes, Bollinger maintains the traditional art of manual riddling for its special cuvées and vintage Champagnes. Two and a half dedicated riddlers handle about 45,000 bottles daily, showcasing the craftsman’s pride in their work.
3. The Last Resident Cooper in Champagne
Bollinger is home to the only resident cooper in Champagne, Gaël Chaunut, who manages around 4,000 barrels personally, with an additional 1,000 barrels recently added. This commitment to tradition is reflected in practices like using chestnut branches to protect cellar floors as barrels are moved.
4. Bollinger Makes a Still Red Wine
In a nod to a historical period when Champagne was also known for its red wine production, Bollinger crafts a rare still red wine from its La Côte aux Enfants vineyard. This wine, made exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes, is designated under the Coteaux Champenois appellation. It showcases vibrant fruit flavors and complex earthy notes, akin to a top-tier Burgundy, yet it cannot be labeled as Champagne.
5. Stepping into a Time Capsule
Deep within the Bollinger cellars lies a historical wine library, known as Galérie 1829, containing bottles dating back to the 1830s. This treasure trove offers a glimpse into the past, providing a quiet connection across generations.
Elisabeth ‘Lilly’ Bollinger, a pivotal figure in the house’s legacy, successfully steered Bollinger through challenging times during and after World War II. Her innovative practices have left a lasting impact, ensuring that the house remains synonymous with quality to this day.
So, when you next pop open a bottle of Bollinger, take a moment to appreciate the legacy of the cellars, the skilled riddlers, the cooper’s craftsmanship, and the indelible mark left by Lilly Bollinger.