Might the concept of “epic wine” have substance? While the term evokes grand tales from oral traditions, it may very well apply to certain wines that convey a deep narrative through layers of flavor and complexity. Andrew Jefford reflects on the concept through the lens of a single bottle, the 2020 Kiridžija Dingač M from Dalmatia, Croatia.
Epic narratives possess the ability to resonate through time, much as epic wines can encapsulate vast experiences within a single pour. Just as oral history used rhythm and rhyme, a great wine employs depth and character to draw the drinker into its story.
Dingač, located on the Pelješac Peninsula, is celebrated for its significant vineyard history since its appellation recognition in 1961. The roughly 79 hectares of this rugged terrain require great effort for harvesting due to the steep slopes and historical paths that once made transport arduous. Local efforts in the past led to the construction of a tunnel that transformed the difficulty into accessibility, allowing for a more efficient harvest of the precious Plavac Mali grapes, the key varietal cultivated in this unique region.
The wine itself, characterized by a robust 15.5% ABV, boasts a richness that feels almost indulgent. On the nose, it presents a luscious aroma that the drinker might initially misinterpret as coming from American oak, when in fact it stems from the wine’s inherent fruitiness bolstered by the unique terroir and climate. The flavor profile, complemented by a careful aging process in French barrels, creates a balance defined by a tapestry of tannins rather than acidity, delivering a fulfilling sensory experience.
Jefford’s tasting of both a 2018 and a 2008 Dingač reveals how time transforms the wine, softening the youthful sweetness into more complex herbal and earthy tones. This evolution highlights the durability and depth of a truly epic wine, capable of standing the test of time.
In this narrative of wine, every sip offers a chapter filled with emotion and richness, inviting enthusiasts to immerse themselves fully into the experience rather than seeking traditional notions of perfection. Dingač M invites us to engage with its story—a liquid epic waiting to be shared and cherished across generations.
For those interested in the nuanced exploration of Croatian wines, the journey through the Dingač vineyard area might just inspire a deeper appreciation for this remarkable wine and its timeless tale.