Simon Field MW recently celebrated the 40th anniversary of Bruno Paillard’s Perpetual Reserve, highlighting the evolution and complexity of this remarkable Champagne. Established in 1981 by Bruno Paillard, this winery is noted for its commitment to quality, distinct from other ventures linked to the Lanson-BCC group. Today, it is led by Bruno’s daughter, Alice, who has become one of Champagne’s most respected cellar masters.
The inception of the Perpetual Reserve was born out of necessity; following a disappointing 1984 vintage, Paillard recognized the need for a reserve system to ensure consistent quality. Thus, he initiated a method where reserve wines are blended each year, enhancing their complexity over time. Each new base wine incorporates a percentage of the Perpetual Reserve, maintaining its richness.
Alice explained that the current 2025 Perpetual Reserve is significantly more intricate than its original version, containing elements from all four decades since its creation. This blending process employs a generous up to 50% addition from the reserve, creating what Alice describes as “a perfumed elixir” that embodies the house’s style.
Unlike a Solera, which involves fractional blending and aging methods, all wines in the Perpetual Reserve are aged uniformly, whether in stainless steel or barrel. Most of the reserve is stored in large stainless-steel vats, ensuring consistency and integrity of style.
The celebration also included a tasting of various cuvées, showcasing the flagship Première Cuvée and the longer-aged Cuvée 72. These wines are sourced from over 30 vineyards, including approximately twelve grand cru sites, with Pinot Noir making up 45% of the blend.
Alice’s philosophy is about allowing the character of each vintage to guide the dosage levels—favoring the preservation of acidity while creating harmony within the blends. Notably, independent Perpetual Reserves are also crafted for the multi-vintage range.
The tasting underscored the paradox of the Perpetual Reserve: it aims for stylistic consistency while simultaneously growing more nuanced with time. This intricate interplay of aging and flavor development was illustrated by wines that have aged gracefully in the bottle, revealing a spectrum of delightful characteristics.
Overall, this anniversary not only marks four decades of Bruno Paillard’s innovative traditions but also emphasizes the winery’s commitment to crafting exquisite Champagne that balances past vintages with future potential.