2024 Burgundy Tasting Notes: Côte de Beaune—Santenay and Cheilly-lès-Maranges
Sarah Marsh MW reports on the 2024 vintage from the Côte de Beaune, focusing on the producers in Santenay and Cheilly-lès-Maranges.
SANTENAY
DOMAINE JESSIAUME
William Waterkeyn, the winemaker at Domaine Jessiaume for 11 years, has worked diligently to transform the estate. Acquiring 6ha back from fermage arrangements in 2021, the estate now spans 15ha (37 acres). The domain has been farming organically since 2016 and is anticipated to achieve biodynamic certification in 2026. William noted that, despite a hot vintage, their wines maintained balance due to the deep-rooted weeds providing competition, which kept sugar levels in check.
William observed that Santenay experienced less rain than usual, lowering mildew pressure on the Pinot Noir. A total of 15–20hl/ha was harvested for reds, with older vines yielding lower production. The vinification process was handled with care: reds were 100% destemmed, fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats, and underwent a cold soak before a gradual temperature rise.
For whites, the grapes were whole-bunch-pressed, settled for 24 hours, and fermented in oak barrels. The domaine also cultivates vines in Auxey-Duresses and Beaune, emphasizing the adaptability of Chardonnay in certain clay-heavy soils.
Tasting Notes:
- Bourgogne Les Perrières: Delicate and mineral, very high-quality Bourgogne. 2026–28. 85
- Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Les Ecussaux: Rich and intense, with a hint of phenolic bitterness. 2027–33. 87–88
- Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravières: Expressive with mineral notes and persistent finish. 2027–33. 90–91
CHEILLY-LÈS-MARANGES
DOMAINE CHEVROT
The Chevrot brothers run this certified organic domaine with a focus on careful soil management and resilience. They mentioned that their management has improved soil fertility, which helped mitigate botrytis during the rainy 2024. The domaine also employs practices that enhance air flow to reduce frost damage.
The pressing method for whites was carefully adjusted to maintain acidity levels, showing a deep understanding of the juice’s extraction process. For reds, longer extractions were employed to balance acidity, resulting in distinctive wines reflective of the terroir.
Tasting Notes:
- Bourgogne Aligoté Cuvée des Quatre Terroirs: Creamy with a lively acidity. 2026–28. 82
- Maranges Premier Cru La Fussière: Rich and silky with impressive concentration. 2027–30. 88–89
- Santenay Premier Cru Le Clos Roussots: Sappy, light, with chalky salinity and unexpected austerity. 2027–30. 87
Both domaines exemplify the diversity and quality of the 2024 vintage in Côte de Beaune. For those interested in the latest developments in Burgundy, these wines will certainly attract attention as they age and showcase their unique characteristics.