Chris Newens, in his book Moveable Feasts: Paris in Twenty Meals, offers a fascinating exploration of the culinary landscape of Paris, revealing its multicultural and imported influences. Newens comments on the quintessential Parisian bistro, observing that it serves as a backdrop for many clichés, often presenting a scene of indifferent waiters and familiar patrons enjoying coffee and croissants in the morning, transitioning to steak frites by midday.
One compelling moment arises during his visit to a bistro in the 20th arrondissement, where he overhears locals discussing the region’s characteristic cuisine—whether it be Indochinese, Moroccan couscous, or Tunisian Jewish fare. The barman, hailing from Aveyron in southern France, retains echoes of history, bringing with him stories of coal merchants who traveled to Paris, armed with wine and small snacks, ultimately contributing to the birth of the bistro.
As Newens dives deeper into culinary traditions, he highlights the uniquely satisfying dish of aligot—a cheesy mash requiring precise technique for perfect incorporation of Tomme cheese into mashed potatoes. The dish exemplifies how culinary traditions evolve and adapt through external influences, and he notes that aligot is emblematic of the Aveyronnais presence in Paris.
Throughout Moveable Feasts, Newens narrates a looping journey across the capital, from the 20th arrondissement to the heart of the city, emphasizing how many of the food experiences stem from its immigrant communities. He suggests that there exists as much Parisian identity in a doner kebab as in traditional French omelettes, showcasing the diversity that defines Paris’s food culture.
His observations lead him to the prestigious Cordon Bleu cooking school where he discusses themes of culinary colonialism; traditional dishes from various cultures are often transformed into interpretations of French haute cuisine. By attending classes, young aspiring chefs such as Gabriel, an Ecuadorian-American, venture into the art of French cooking in hopes of mastering its intricacies.
In contrast to haute cuisine, Newens visits various eateries—from a Congolese restaurant serving large portions of fish stew, to an underwhelming swingers’ club that offers lackluster buffet food. In each culinary stop, he captures the essence of Paris’s gastronomic tapestry, revealing how rich and complex the city’s food scene truly is.
Towards the end of the book, Newens aims to encapsulate the diverse culinary threads of Paris in a grand synthesis. While he notes that Paris is a city shaped by revolutions of all kinds, it remains a place adept at incorporating these changes seamlessly into its cultural and gastronomic identity. At a bustling restaurant like Bouillon République, he delights in the shared atmosphere of communal dining, a stark contrast to the more individual-centered dining environment often found in other metropolises.
Through Moveable Feasts, Newens successfully navigates Paris’s culinary terrain, inviting readers to explore the rich, multicultural food heritage that is as essential to the city as its iconic landmarks. The book thus serves not just as a culinary guide, but also as an exploration of identity, taste, and the heart of modern Paris.