Tocai Friulano, known simply as Friulano, is not the most prevalent grape variety in the Collio region of northeast Italy, having been surpassed by Pinot Grigio in cultivation. Despite accounting for only 15% of the total grape area, Friulano remains the most commonly planted variety among producers in the area. This grape, however, faces recognition challenges, particularly outside its home region. A survey indicated that many Italians are unfamiliar with Friulano, underscoring the variety’s struggle for wider appreciation.
The name ‘Tocai’ was officially dropped by the EU in 2007 to protect the reputation of Hungary’s Tokaji wines, leaving Friulano as the more accurate but less recognizable term. The variety’s roots date back to the early 20th century and are linked to Sauvignonasse, a grape originally from Bordeaux, but its exact origins remain unclear.
Friulano boasts a vibrant personality, characterized by floral aromas reminiscent of acacia and lime blossom, alongside notes of bitter almonds. It has a full-bodied character with a glossy texture and minerality that reflects the region’s terroir. Different growing conditions in Collio yield distinct styles of Friulano, where cooler locales produce fresher, more vibrant wines, while warmer areas offer richer, fuller profiles.
Recent developments indicate a renewal in the focus on Friulano, particularly among younger producers who are experimenting with vinification techniques, including maceration. There is also a movement towards blending Friulano with other native varieties, such as Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana, to create wines that celebrate the region’s identity. This traditional blend emphasizes Friulano’s body, Ribolla’s acidity, and Malvasia’s aromatic richness.
The push for a return to these classic blends aligns with a group of young winemakers committing to a blend that showcases local grapes, aimed at enhancing the visibility and appreciation of Friulano. With ongoing evolution in style and production practices, Friulano is poised to assert its importance both within and beyond the DOC framework, embodying the potential to shine in both traditional and modern winemaking contexts.
For those interested in exploring Friulano, here are 20 recommended wines to get a taste of this distinctive variety from Collio:
- Damijan Podversic, Nekaj, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2021
- Tenuta Stella, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2023
- Bracco, La Mont-Brach Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2022
- Korsič, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Muzic, Stare Brajde Da Uve Autoctone, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2023
- Villa Russiz, Maisha Da Uve Autoctone, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2023
- Pascolo, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Ronco Blanchis, Da Uve Autoctone, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2023
- Kren, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Picéch, Athena, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2021
- Russiz Superiore, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2023
- Gradis’Ciutta, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Primosic, Skin, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2021
- Raccaro, Rolat Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Toros, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Blazic, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Venica, Ronco delle Cime Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
- Drius, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2021
- Polje, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2021
- Vosca, Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2024
Engaging with Friulano through these recommendations offers a glimpse into the evolving narratives and potential of this unique grape from Collio.