After attending the inaugural tasting of Bhutan’s first wines, Chris Howard reflects on humanity’s fascination with novelty and the longing for the new. His thoughts were particularly stirred by this unique experience as he returned from tasting these wines in Paris one warm June evening.
Bhutan, known for its carbon-negative stance and Gross National Happiness framework, has officially entered the wine scene with the establishment of the Bhutan Wine Company. This launch and the subsequent auction of its initial vintages has garnered significant media attention.
At Bonhams auction, a 7.57-liter red aptly named “The Himalayan” sold for an astonishing $18,750, highlighting the allure of Bhutanese wines even before they were tasted. This raises questions about our attraction to novelty: Are we drawn to the new even before we understand it?
As these first Bhutanese wines entered the market, wine lovers were eager to know their quality. The general consensus? They are surprisingly good, but the measurement of their quality is complex.
Much of the interest surrounding these wines ties into a broader discourse on the value of novelty, utopia, and desire. The founders of the Bhutan Wine Company, Mike Juergens and Ann Cross, first fell in love with Bhutan’s terroir while running a marathon there in 2017. Their initial release, the Ser Kim range, includes a selection of whites and reds that were presented for tasting without bias.
During the tasting, guests had preconceived notions, which inevitably colored their impressions. A Traminette reminded tasters of Alsace wines, while both the Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc had lively characteristics reminiscent of the Loire Valley. The reds, however, seemed tighter and less expressive, hinting at their youth and potential.
Despite these promising beginnings, the prices of the Ser Kim wines range from $80 to $500. This pricing prompts reflection on the factors that create demand: Is it truly about the wine itself, or is it about the story, the novelty, and the social distinction it offers?
Bhutan’s wines promise not just pleasure but spiritual purity, embodying the ideas of a last Shangri-La—a unique geography that holds symbolic significance. Mountains have historically represented timelessness and transcendence, which adds to the cachet of Bhutanese wine. Bhutan is often framed as an antithesis to our chaotic world, which amplifies the allure of its wines.
The concept of "neophilia," the human attraction to novelty, plays heavily into this narrative. Our craving for newness drives cultural consumption but often leads to restlessness in a world filled with distractions. This notion links to a cultural obsession with youth and innovation, suggesting that our pursuits of novelty could lead us to lose sight of valuable traditions.
Utilizing mimetic desire, the social theory proposed by René Girard, can explain further why Bhutan’s wines are generating interest not for their intrinsic qualities, but because they are desired by others. The example of the “Himalayan” wine, purchased without substantial evaluation, emphasizes how value can be manufactured through scarcity and novelty.
Amidst these discussions, concerns arise about whether a new wine region is necessary when traditional regions are facing challenges like overproduction and declining consumption. This invites larger inquiries about the local perspective on Bhutan’s wine ventures and whether they reflect neocolonial attitudes.
To truly evaluate Bhutan’s first wines, a comparative blind tasting against established wines in similar price ranges may provide a clearer understanding of their merit.
As Chris Howard returned home after an evening immersed in thoughts of novelty and desire, he pondered over the deeper story of Bhutan’s first wines, inspired by the classic film "Rashomon," which explores multiple perspectives. This reflection compels one to consider the many facets of the narrative surrounding Bhutanese wine and its potential impact on the global wine landscape.
Topics in this article: Bhutan