In her second coverage of the 2024 Burgundy vintage, The World of Fine Wine’s Burgundy critic Sarah Marsh MW provides a thorough evaluation of the region’s villages, crus, and lieux-dits.
Côte de Nuits
Marsannay to Gevrey-Chambertin
In Marsannay, winemaker Edouard Clair notes that rain was heavier between Gevrey and Marsannay. Despite the adverse conditions, there are still decent red and white wines from Marsannay with modest intensity. At Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, Amalie Berthaut showcases the potential of Fixin with elegantly crafted wines in a challenging year.
With disease pressure affecting Gevrey-Chambertin, the quality varies significantly. Lower-tier wines from below the village are light and weedy, while higher examples from producers like Bruno Clair and David Duband show promise. Notably, Amalie Berthaut’s wine from Combe du Dessus stands out positively.
The premier crus from Combe de Lavaut excel this vintage, benefiting from their south-facing positioning. Wines like the Domaine du Couvent’s La Romanée exhibit a pleasing cranberry sweetness, though acidity levels may vary based on harvest timing. Overall, wines from Cazetiers show depth and savory notes, while Champeaux offers a fruity freshness.
Morey-St-Denis
Village wines from Morey exhibit a floral and delicate character, particularly from the Rue de Vergy. Premier crus like Les Chaffots and Mont Luisants are marked by a racy minerality. The contrast between village wines from Morey and its higher-tier crus is evident, especially with noteworthy grands crus like Clos des Lambrays and Clos de la Roche, with the latter showing exotic floral qualities.
Chambolle-Musigny
Chambolle’s wines vary, with many being overly strict, resulting in angularity and bitterness. The best village wines were scarce, and concerns arose about the quality of major crus such as Bonnes-Mares. Notably, Comte Georges de Vogüé crafted an exceptional Musigny, demonstrating the potential hidden among disappointing offerings.
Vougeot, Flagey-Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée
Vosne wines, while generally pleasant, lacked the characteristic body expected from the village. Premier cru wines show aromatics and charm but often lack depth. In terms of grand cru, insufficient power and density marred recommendations for Clos de Vougeot, though select producers yielded fine wines.
Nuits-St-Georges
Village wines here can seem diluted; however, boutique producers produced standouts. A few premier crus displayed exceptional character and typicity, making them highlights of the vintage.
Côte de Beaune
Beaune
Beaune’s reds are light and refreshing, with pleasant structures. The premier cru reds, especially from Marconnets and Grèves, show potential for earlier drinking but lack the excitement of prior vintages.
Pommard
Pommard’s wines have gained elegance and consistency, particularly from areas like Epenots and Noizons. Some premier crus also showed well, but producers must take care to avoid green tannins from over-extraction.
Volnay
In 2024, Volnay produces a refined expression, with gentle tannins and summer fruit. The best offerings reflect a lighter, more elegant profile than typical hot vintages.
Meursault
The Meursault wines this vintage often feel linear but show great intensity. Village offerings are fresh, while the premier crus are noted for their precision.
Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny showcases light and zesty wines, often with marked acidity. Premier crus have shown improvements in consistency, though some are noted to be light.
Chassagne-Montrachet
Chassagne impresses with its whites showing appealing freshness and aromatic complexity. Reds are also noteworthy, with significant improvements seen in producers’ extraction techniques this year.
Monthelie, Auxey-Duresses, St-Romain, and St-Aubin
Quality across these smaller villages varies widely. A lack of ripeness in some wines has led to acidity without sufficient balance, while others excelled, particularly with producers known for their meticulous methods.
Santenay and Maranges
Maranges is impacted by challenges such as hail but shows promise in its red offerings despite the vintage’s difficulties.
As a whole, the 2024 Burgundy vintage reflects significant variability been seen throughout the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, with some focused producers making remarkable strides amidst climatic challenges. For a deeper dive into the nuances of the 2024 Burgundy wines, refer to World Of Fine Wine.