Michael Brajkovic recently showcased the 2024 releases of Kumeu River’s esteemed Chardonnays, offering a side-by-side comparison with the 2014 vintage. Kumeu River is renowned in New Zealand for producing some of the country’s most collectible and age-worthy Chardonnays, which historically have been sourced from vineyards in Kumeu, West Auckland. This region, while pivotal in the emergence of New Zealand’s wine identity, has long been overshadowed, except for Kumeu River, whose wines have been recognized on global platforms.
In a strategic move towards sustainability and quality, Kumeu River has expanded its operations to Hawke’s Bay. This decision stems from uncertainties surrounding their Auckland vineyards. They identified a 25-hectare site named Rays Road in Hawke’s Bay, initially planted with Sauvignon Blanc and some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir by Trinity Hill. The Brajkovics acquired this vineyard in 2017 and have since transitioned most of it to Chardonnay, planting carefully chosen clones and ensuring the genetic material was virus-free.
The vineyard now boasts 11 hectares of Chardonnay, with the site’s limestone base soil providing ideal growing conditions. Their Rays Road Chardonnay, crafted from the finest clone selections, is fermented predominantly in older oak, achieving a delicate balance of flavors. Although the fruit is transported over a 7-hour drive for vinification, this logistics does not compromise the quality.
The 2024 growing season presented challenges, including uncharacteristic weather that led to a 40% reduction in crop yield; however, this concentration means heightened flavor intensity in the resulting wines. With the 2024 season marking a significant shift after a tumultuous 2023—characterized by heavy rainfall and Cyclone Gabriel—the climate has ultimately favored the Chardonnay varietals.
Tasting notes from the recent releases include:
- Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2024: Lively with intense notes of pineapple and pear; 94/100.
- Kumeu River Rays Road Chardonnay 2024: Concentrated and fresh, with a lovely intensity; 95/100.
- Kumeu River Coddington Chardonnay 2024: Bright and linear, featuring peach and apricot; 96/100.
- Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2024: Elegant with refined citrus and pear fruit; 96/100.
- Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2024: Complex with rich texture and aging potential; 96/100.
Comparatively, the 2014 vintages also continue to impress, showcasing incredible depth and developing complexity:
- Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2014: Still fresh with juicy fruit; 94/100.
- Kumeu River Coddington Chardonnay 2014: Nuanced and beginning to evolve; 95/100.
- Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2014: Concentrated with fine qualities; 97/100.
- Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2014: Focused and mineral-driven, showing excellent refinement; 97/100.
For further details on Kumeu River and their offerings, you can visit their website.