Hero Wine
Sagrantino is no longer merely Italy’s "most tannic red wine." Instead, it has transformed into one of its most exquisitely textured and richly flavored reds.
Andrew Jefford explores the 2019 Valentini Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino, celebrating the evolution of Sagrantino from its past reputation. The comparison between wine and music emerges, particularly through the discussion of tannins, which are often misunderstood and feared. While tannins can complicate a wine’s profile, they also contribute to its depth and character, advancing the idea that greatness in wine comes from understanding and embracing its tannins.
Sagrantino di Montefalco has a storied history, marked by a decrease in production due to the challenges of viticulture during the 20th century. However, in recent years, the landscape has changed dramatically, with a rise to 85 wineries in the region and an enriched understanding of what Sagrantino can deliver.
The Valentini family, who began their winemaking journey in the 1920s, emphasizes late harvesting, careful fermentation, and aging in modest-sized tuns to achieve the wine’s full potential. This meticulous process enhances the wine’s textural qualities and aromatic nuances.
The 2019 Sagrantino is described as opaque black-red, embodying brambly fruit characterized by savory aromas that evoke nature. Its palate reveals a sophistication, merging velvet-like softness with a volcanic undercurrent of energy. Every sip is a testament to the wine’s ability to convey a sense of place, reminiscent of old-world artistry.
Cristina Mercuri, a noted Italian wine educator, provides insight into the importance of texture in wine tasting, challenging the stereotype of Sagrantino as a solely tannic experience. In a blind tasting, Bocale’s Sagrantino harmonizes beautifully alongside more established wines, showcasing its capacity for complexity and allure.
Ultimately, the evolution of Sagrantino illustrates its potential beyond the tannin-centric narrative, allowing it to stand beside esteemed counterparts like Barolo and Brunello, marking it as a true hero wine worth admiration and trust.