A fine new guide to the proper stuff
As Beaujolais finally garners the attention it deserves, Natasha Hughes MW’s new book, The Wines of Beaujolais, arrives at a pivotal moment. Over the years, many outsiders, including wine aficionados, have had a skewed perception of Beaujolais, often associating it solely with the light and bubbly Beaujolais Nouveau. Hughes reflects on how even those with some knowledge of wine often view the region simplistically, equating it to bubblegum and candied berry flavors, rather than appreciating the full range of quality wines that the region has to offer.
The book seeks to rectify this misunderstanding by taking readers on an informative journey through Beaujolais, emphasizing its distinct crus (sub-regions) and the complexities of its wines. Each chapter is dedicated to a specific cru, profiling notable producers and delving into the unique challenges faced by viticulturists. For instance, Hughes expresses her admiration for Chiroubles, one of the smallest crus, celebrating the breathtaking beauty of its wines, which are often characterized by their finesse and perfume. However, she also addresses the real difficulties many producers encounter, namely severe weather conditions and the intense labor required to cultivate these steep slopes.
Fleurie, another notable cru, garners attention for its potential designation as premier cru. Hughes discusses the complexities surrounding this recognition, weighing the benefits and drawbacks. The opinion remains mixed within the local community; while some growers support the move, others are cautious about the implications.
The book goes beyond just the wines, providing insights into viticulture and winemaking practices, making it a valuable resource for anyone wishing to deepen their understanding of Beaujolais. Additionally, for those contemplating a visit, it includes recommendations on where to sleep, eat, and drink in the region.
Hughes engages in speculative thinking about the future, presenting three possible scenarios for Beaujolais in the year 2045: an optimistic outlook where Beaujolais stands proudly alongside prestigious appellations, a middling scenario where some cru wines fail to differentiate themselves in quality, and a pessimistic vision where vineyards are abandoned due to climate challenges. While she hopes for the best, she acknowledges the threats facing the region.
Ultimately, The Wines of Beaujolais is not just a guide for devotees of the wine; it also serves as a persuasive treatise for skeptics, aiming to reshape perceptions of Beaujolais and elevate its status within the wine community. Hughes hopes that her book can turn the tide for those who still view Beaujolais as merely a simplistic offering.
Explore Beaujolais
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Discover Piemonte
Understanding Viticulture
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