The northwestern Spanish region of Bierzo is experiencing a vibrant renaissance in red wine production, particularly around the Mencía grape variety. This transformation began in 1998 when Álvaro Palacios relocated from Priorat to establish Descedientes de J Palacios with his nephew, sparking a new era for the region, alongside the innovative Raúl Pérez, who founded Ultreia.
Bierzo’s vineyards thrive in a unique continental climate, influenced by Atlantic breezes. Historically, small vineyards produced wine for local consumption, but post-WWII, many focused on supplying cooperatives. Mencía, traditionally grown alongside white varieties like Godello and Palomino, faced challenges due to its low acidity and color. The shift in wine production from over-cropped vines in the 2000s to well-managed old bush vines has resulted in richer, more concentrated red wines.
During a recent visit to Bierzo, a tasting of various wines revealed a landscape in transition. While some producers aimed for lighter, more refined wines, others still leaned toward heavy oak and high alcohol content. Mencía’s delicate structure often struggles against aggressive oak treatment.
The 2017 establishment of a classification system by Bierzo DOC encouraged a focus on terroir, which led to exploration of the region’s distinct environments. This classification delineates three levels: regional, village, and single vineyards, helping producers celebrate and differentiate their unique terroirs.
Notably, César Márquez, located in Valtuille de Abajo within Bierzo’s valley, categorizes vineyards based on soil composition, which significantly influences the character of the wines. The clay-rich valley produces fruity wines, while the surrounding mountains yield sharper, more intense expressions due to their varied soil types.
Among the highlights were wines from Grégory Pérez, a young winemaker who emphasizes the importance of terroir by meticulously reassembling old vineyard plots, yielding delicate wines with mineral finishes. Other innovative producers, including Verónica Ortega and Ósvalo Pereira, are also pushing the envelope by utilizing techniques like whole-bunch fermentation and co-fermenting with white grapes to achieve fresher, more refined final products.
As Bierzo continues to evolve, it appears that a movement toward greater terroir expression and a refined approach to winemaking is gaining traction, hinting at a promising future for its Mencía wines.
For further reading on Bierzo and the Mencía grape, visit: