Falernian Wine: A Journey Through Time
Falernian wine, held in high esteem by emperors and senators in ancient Rome for its exceptional quality and aging potential, has recently experienced a revival thanks to the dedicated efforts of the Avallone family. Historically significant and nearly forgotten for two millennia, this legendary wine from Campania is now being meticulously recreated with a focus on historical authenticity.
In the picturesque Bidder Terrace of the Grand Hotel Parker’s in Naples, I savor a glass of Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Vigna Caracci. The deep golden wine, with aromas of peaches, white fruits, broom, and honey, encapsulates the area’s rich cultural heritage. From my vantage point, I take in the awe-inspiring sights of Cape Posillipo, the Bay of Naples, and the iconic Mount Vesuvius, whose eruption in 79 CE is forever etched in history.
The catastrophic eruption, described vividly by Pliny the Younger, claimed lives and buried cities, including Pompeii—once a bustling hub of wine trade and culture. Pompeii’s wine scene was thriving, with numerous taverns serving various wines from the Campania Felix region, where Falernian was among the most treasured offerings. It represented luxury, appreciated by the Roman elite like Julius Caesar and Cleopatra.
The legend of Falernian wine’s origins traces back to an old farmer named Falernus, who, after granting hospitality to the deity Bacchus, was rewarded with the flourishing vines that created this distinguished wine.
Despite its celebrated past, the knowledge of Falernian gradually faded, much like the cities lost under volcanic ash. In the 1960s, Dr. Francesco Paolo Avallone, a Naples lawyer with a passion for ancient Roman culture, embarked on a personal quest to revive Falernian wine. Inspired by ancient texts and the desire to experience the taste of a long-lost heritage, he dedicated his life to uncovering the details of its production and bringing the wine back to prominence.
His meticulous research involved mapping the ancient terroirs of Monte Massico, the historical birthplace of Falernian. After years of exploration, Dr. Avallone identified unique biotypes of indigenous grape varieties like Falanghina, Aglianico, and Piedirosso, which were then propagated to create a modern winery named Villa Matilde.
Following Dr. Avallone’s passing, his children, Salvatore and Maria Ida, took on the family mission to ensure the continuation of their father’s dreams. They integrated modern winemaking techniques with the wisdom of ancient Roman practices, striving to capture the essence of Falernian while appealing to contemporary palates.
Today, Villa Matilde’s wines, including the flagship Rosso Vigna Camarato, represent a seamless blend of tradition and innovation. As I raised my glass of Falerno del Massico in the luxurious setting of Naples, I reflected on the remarkable journey of this ancient wine, which continues to bridge the past and present.
The revival of Falernian wine is not merely about resurrecting a historic beverage but also a cultural legacy that honors the rich history of winemaking in Italy. It stands as a testament to the enduring power of wine, linking generations and inspiring future custodians of this cherished heritage.