Wimbledon has come and gone, but an incident during the tournament reminds us how shifting circumstances can alter paths—like when Grigor Dimitrov had to retire with a muscle injury while leading against Jannik Sinner, who eventually won the championship. This brings to mind the concept of contingency, which means that events unfold in a way that could have been different.
Within the world of wine, the idea of alternative histories raises fascinating questions. One of the standout examples is the impact of phylloxera, the vine-destroying aphid that traveled from America to Europe in the late 1850s. Its arrival marked a turning point, leading to the collapse of many wine regions and the near extinction of several grape varieties. If phylloxera had never reached the Old World, regions like Burgundy and Bordeaux might have seen vastly different dominant varieties and trades.
For instance, prior to phylloxera, Burgundy’s red plantings were predominantly other varieties instead of the now-ubiquitous Pinot Noir. Similarly, Bordeaux had a well-established presence of Carmenère, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, which have since diminished or vanished.
Alternative histories also apply to wine regions, as evidenced by Cahors. Once a strong competitor to Bordeaux during the Middle Ages for red wine exports, Cahors suffered after Bordeaux traders imposed taxes that disadvantaged its wines. Unlike Bordeaux, which thrived, Cahors has not regained its former glory, despite the global success of Malbec in Argentina.
The evolution of various wine styles also speaks to these contingencies. Champagne, for instance, originated as a still wine; the bubbles were unintentional byproducts of the fermentation process. It wasn’t until better corks and thicker glass bottles were available in Britain that the sparkling wine gained popularity, ultimately shaping the modern image of Champagne.
Port wine underwent a similar transformation. Initially, it wasn’t fortified, but changes in trade and consumer preferences led to the rich, sweet style we recognize today.
In considering grape varieties, there is hope for rediscovery and revival. For example, at a recent tasting presented by Mireia Torres in London, this exploration of lesser-known Catalan grape varieties highlights how history can make room for alternatives. Grapes like Forcada and Pirene, once on the brink of oblivion, showcase the potential for rediscovery amidst modern challenges, such as climate change.
As we reflect on these alternative histories within the wine world, it becomes clear that while some events are irrevocable, the richness of wine culture holds the possibility for redemption and revival. From buried treasures in the ground to the intricate narratives of variety and vintage, the past remains alive, waiting for its chance to resurface.
Explore more about wine history and grape varieties on the following links: