For Andrew Jefford, the qvevri serves as a vital link that connects the ancient art of winemaking with contemporary interests in this unique tradition, often referred to as the “sixth genre of wine.” His experiences over the past 36 years have taken him through various landscapes where wine culture thrives, revealing the importance of understanding the past to navigate the future of wine production.
The history of the qvevri extends back approximately 8,000 years, showcasing humanity’s deep connection to viticulture. Research from sites in Georgia like Shulaveris Gora and Gadachrili Gora has uncovered wine residues in pottery that date back to these Neolithic times, though the design and burial practices associated with qvevris only emerged later.
The qvevri creates a controlled environment for fermentation that can transform grapes into wine, fostering a sense of security and comfort amidst the dangers of ancient life. Creating these vessels signified a significant technological advancement, allowing early winemakers to store and nurture their wines effectively.
Throughout history, Georgia has faced numerous invasions and conflicts, yet the tradition of burying qvevris with wine remains an essential part of their cultural identity. The hardships faced by countless generations of Georgians are intertwined with their winemaking, establishing a profound link between the land and its people.
The modern world is waking up to the significance of qvevris as part of a rich winemaking heritage that has been nearly lost. This revival is critical, as qvevri wines, with their skin contact fermentation methods, present a sixth wine genre largely forgotten by most of the wine world.
The resurgence of qvevri wines reflects a growing interest in natural winemaking principles that align with consumer desires for authenticity and simplicity. As drinking habits shift toward agricultural practices rather than industrial, the qvevri wines offer a unique tasting experience that connects people to the ancient roots of winemaking.
The textural qualities and complex flavors that come from using qvevris in the winemaking process represent an important evolution in wine production, resonating with a wide audience eager to experience wines that encapsulate thousands of years of tradition. The story of the qvevri is an avenue to rediscover the craft of winemaking that has persisted through centuries, bridging the past with the future.