Cristina Mercuri, the founder and CEO of Mercuri Wine Club, delves into how the wines of Sicily’s DOC Etna are contributing to the evolving identity of Italian wine, moving towards a style characterized by elegance and restraint. Located on the flanks of Mount Etna, the area’s vineyards span approximately 1,300 hectares across diverse landscapes shaped by volcanic activity. The distinctive terroir here gives rise to white Carricante and red Nerello Mascalese, producing wines known for their linear structure and precision.
However, it is not solely the land that shapes these wines. Younger winemakers in the region are embracing a philosophy that favors clarity and authenticity over density. Influential figures like Federico Graziani, and the meticulous styles showcased by Graci and Girolamo Russo highlight a commitment to a winemaking ethos that encourages the terroir to shine through without excessive manipulation. This nuanced approach has led to comparisons between Etna and Burgundy, suggesting that while Etna is developing its own identity, it is also part of a broader trend in Italian winemaking.
The movement towards elegance in wine is not confined to Etna alone; it reflects a larger recalibration across various Italian regions. For instance, Chianti Classico is prioritizing lower alcohol levels and allowing the fruit to express itself without the overshadowing influence of oak. Similarly, northern regions like Valpolicella and Barolo are shifting towards more delicate expressions of their traditional grapes.
As Italy reassesses its position in the global wine arena, it becomes clear that authenticity and uniqueness may hold more power than merely producing opulent wines. Etna’s wines encapsulate this evolving identity, presenting a vocabulary of elegance that is deeply connected to the region’s volcanic soil.
In a recent tasting, the Contrada Volpare Rosato 2024 by Maugeri stood out as a prime example of this restrained volcanic elegance, showcasing the unique characteristics of its Nerello Mascalese grape.
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