At the table: Wiener Schnitzel
Joanna Simon’s exploration of wine country cuisine leads her to the heart of Austria, where the beloved dish Wiener schnitzel takes center stage.
It took Joanna Simon a while to arrive in Austria, despite its rich culinary heritage, which she describes as "hearty." Her initial impression during a visit decades ago was somewhat skewed, focusing mainly on the country’s renowned cakes and a dish featuring calf’s brains, which she has since preferred to avoid.
While Austrian cakes, often enjoyed with coffee rather than wine, are noteworthy, it is the Wiener schnitzel that captures the country’s essence. Despite its simplicity—a breaded and fried veal escalope—this iconic dish has eluded her attention until now, partly due to its familiarity and her personal preferences.
Joanna’s recent experiences cooking Wiener schnitzel have reignited her appreciation for the dish. When prepared correctly, it becomes a delightful combination of textures and flavors, particularly when accompanied by a classic potato salad and a fresh green or cucumber salad.
How to make Wiener Schnitzel
The technique is critical: veal escalopes should be beaten thin, seasoned, and coated sequentially in flour, beaten egg, and breadcrumbs, taking care not to compress the breadcrumbs. Traditionally fried in lard, other good options like clarified butter or goose fat can also be used. The key is maintaining the correct frying temperature for optimal crispness.
The origins of Wiener schnitzel
Wiener schnitzel traces its roots back almost two centuries, with notable references appearing in cookbooks by Maria Anna Neudecker and Katharina Prato. For a long time, the dish was thought to be of Italian origin, supposedly introduced to Austria by Field Marshall Joseph Radetzky von Radetz, but this has since been debunked.
The best wines to pair with Wiener Schnitzel
Pairing wine with Wiener schnitzel is straightforward yet rewarding. Young Grüner Veltliner, with its refreshing acidity and flavors of peach and white pepper, complements the rich, crispy coating of the schnitzel and veal beautifully. However, more complex wines, such as those from Wachau and Kremstal regions, also work well.
Other excellent white wine candidates include Piedmont’s rare Timorasso, Alsace Pinot Gris, dry Gavi, and perhaps even a youthful Chardonnay. For red options, versatile choices like Pinot Noir and Austria’s own Zweigelt can enhance the meal, steering clear of overly tannic wines that might clash with the dish’s flavors.
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This journey through Austrian cuisine reminds us that great wine pairings enhance even the most humble and beloved dishes.